Snowmobile engine rebuild thread

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adinpoor1995

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Ok guys so i just pulled the engine out of my 88 arctic cat cougar 500, Everyone keeps giving me different reasons it wont run seeing as i dont know small engines very well.... anyways im starting to tear it down and need a shopping list... Everything i need to rebuild this engine, If anyone could help thatd be awesome.
 

89Suburban

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Ooooo!! :popcorn:
 

adinpoor1995

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pics coming soon
 

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adinpoor1995

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so... my toolbox....which is designed to hold tools...handle broke while i was going down a staircase.....so now all my clutch bolts... and exhuast strings are in the bottom of a storm drain....this company is going to replace my **** or i sware to god i will take them to court.
 

adinpoor1995

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i wouldent be so pissed if it was easy to find these around here..... but its impossible for an 88
 

89Suburban

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so... my toolbox....which is designed to hold tools...handle broke while i was going down a staircase.....so now all my clutch bolts... and exhuast strings are in the bottom of a storm drain....this company is going to replace my **** or i sware to god i will take them to court.

OMFG. :roflbow:

You got the same luck some of us have here, lol. What kind of grate did they fall through? You can open and get access? Got a magnet on a pole?

:console:
 

woodsrider250

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These guys are bad-ass, but still catalog only. http://www.superpages.com/bp/Green-Bay-WI/Central-Snowmobile-ATV-L0011807848.htm

If you just lost bolts and exhaust springs that's not a big deal. Back to original question potentially save yourself a ton of dough by buying a leakdown tester....HarborFreight sells one. You going to want to find out if the crank seals are leaking....If so, yeah, you're going to want to spit the bottom end and go through everything....SOME can be changed without cracking the bottom end. Do a compression test do to see how bad the rings are. Your engine may be fine. I have an 88 Polaris and it's never been touched...runs like a champ. I have had to rebuild the fuel pump/etc. Pull heads/jugs, check ring end gap, check rod play in the bottom end. The thing should still start flat wore out though. I guess what I'm getting at here is a full top-bottom rebuild will be pricey, and you may be able to stay out of the bottom end. 2-cycles are multi-piece cranks that are pressed together by someone who knows what they are doing, and have the jigs to check the runout to make sure it's straight as an arrow. Do it on your workbench, and you'll likely kill a brand new crank seal or worse. Crank seal leak in a 2-cycle is a bad air leak and will burn a cylinder down. A 4-stroke would run w/ the oil pan off if you could keep it lubed...LOL. Engine needs fuel and spark to run both are easy to test on these.
 

adinpoor1995

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Well. I was going to do a full rebuild.....but maybe only top end now. And yeah ik... just pisses me off andwhen something doesent do what its supposed to..... and now i have to shell out cash for new clutch bolts and lock rings
 

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