Should I replace?

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kenneth1669

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oregon
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Kenneth
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1977
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K10
Engine Size
400
I burnt up my th350 and am in the process of rebuilding it with the help of YouTube. I forget what it’s called but it’s all burnt to a crisp and the clutches look like they have sat on a BBQ for a couple hours. Would I be able to clean this out or does it need replaced?
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NickTransmissions

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I burnt up my th350 and am in the process of rebuilding it with the help of YouTube. I forget what it’s called but it’s all burnt to a crisp and the clutches look like they have sat on a BBQ for a couple hours. Would I be able to clean this out or does it need replaced?
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Take the piston out of the forward drum then thorougly clean and inspect it. Once you have done so, if there is no structural damage, bluing or other concerns like worn input shaft splines, it can prob be reused.

For your reference:

Also check out my TH350 Information thread on here - link is in my description.
 

kenneth1669

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Engine Size
400
@kenneth1669 - Why did the forward clutch get so burnt up like that? What was the direct cause?
The truck was sitting for 7 months at my grandparents house and it leaks a lot. Brought it home and forgot to check the fluid and burnt it up. That’s what I’m assuming at least. I went to check the fluid after it started having problems shifting and it smelled very burned and very black
 

NickTransmissions

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R10
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The truck was sitting for 7 months at my grandparents house and it leaks a lot. Brought it home and forgot to check the fluid and burnt it up. That’s what I’m assuming at least. I went to check the fluid after it started having problems shifting and it smelled very burned and very black
Hmm..not likely you completely burnt it up as described by failing to check fluid level, unless you have reason to believe it was leaking and low to begin with. I ask as the forward clutch is always applied when you're in a forward pattern range position (Drive, D2 and D1 aka Manual Low) so it's not often we see that clutch pack burnt...Inspect the lip seals to see if they hardened as that would explain it (sitting for months, especially over the summer time) can potentially allow the seals to harden enough to only partially seal when put to work after the long break.

The stator sealing rings may have also been worn as well...Whenever you see anything like burnt frictions, especially in a non-working clutch pack, it's always a good idea to determine what specifically cause the clutch to fail (i.e. the direct cause) so you know there's not an undiscovered problem somewhere that will still be present when you put the rebuilt transmission back into the vehicle.
 

kenneth1669

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Joined
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Location
oregon
First Name
Kenneth
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
400
Hmm..not likely you completely burnt it up as described by failing to check fluid level, unless you have reason to believe it was leaking and low to begin with. I ask as the forward clutch is always applied when you're in a forward pattern range position (Drive, D2 and D1 aka Manual Low) so it's not often we see that clutch pack burnt...Inspect the lip seals to see if they hardened as that would explain it (sitting for months, especially over the summer time) can potentially allow the seals to harden enough to only partially seal when put to work after the long break.

The stator sealing rings may have also been worn as well...Whenever you see anything like burnt frictions, especially in a non-working clutch pack, it's always a good idea to determine what specifically cause the clutch to fail (i.e. the direct cause) so you know there's not an undiscovered problem somewhere that will still be present when you put the rebuilt transmission back into the vehicle.
Weird I’m not sure. The lip seals looked alright just old and not terribly dried out. The truck was sitting for about 15 years in a storage unit with that transfusion in it. The previous ownwr had the original 400 swapped for the 350. I have only out about 750 mile on it sense resurrecting it from the storage unit.
 

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