Gman73
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2021
- Posts
- 101
- Reaction score
- 28
- Location
- Sacramento
- First Name
- Gary
- Truck Year
- 1973
- Truck Model
- Ck20
- Engine Size
- 350 v8
Should I change these while I’ve got it broken down this far ?
- Thread starter Gman73
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2019
- Posts
- 3,126
- Reaction score
- 7,257
- Location
- Downingtown, PA
- First Name
- Wayne
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- Jimmy
- Engine Size
- 350
I've seen worse. If you do them, buy all six. Jack one side at a time after removing the nuts. The other side with the loose bolts will keep everything in line.
Disconnect the distributor cap if it is real close to the firewall. Make sure the fan doesn't hit the shroud. Most important, disconnect the shifter linkage from the trans (auto trans and 3speed) before jacking the driver's side.
Disconnect the distributor cap if it is real close to the firewall. Make sure the fan doesn't hit the shroud. Most important, disconnect the shifter linkage from the trans (auto trans and 3speed) before jacking the driver's side.
DoubleDingo
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2012
- Posts
- 11,254
- Reaction score
- 17,192
- Location
- Right where I am
- First Name
- Bagoomba
- Truck Year
- 1981
- Truck Model
- 81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s
- Engine Size
- Carb'ed Vortec 350
It wouldn't hurt since you're that far in
Bextreme04
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 13, 2019
- Posts
- 4,439
- Reaction score
- 5,581
- Location
- Oregon
- First Name
- Eric
- Truck Year
- 1980
- Truck Model
- K25
- Engine Size
- 350-4bbl
FWIW, those are not factory mounts. Those are already Energy Suspension Poly mounts. I just put new ones on mine since I had the entire front end apart and they look just like that. I still had the original ones on it.
hoagster
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2017
- Posts
- 1,393
- Reaction score
- 3,436
- Location
- California
- First Name
- Mike
- Truck Year
- 1973, 2000
- Truck Model
- K10, 1500
- Engine Size
- 5.3l
yea if you saw mine you wouldn't have asked! And good job on the how to for those that need to do it but won't strip the body off @Turbo4whl
Gman73
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2021
- Posts
- 101
- Reaction score
- 28
- Location
- Sacramento
- First Name
- Gary
- Truck Year
- 1973
- Truck Model
- Ck20
- Engine Size
- 350 v8
Thanks that’s what I was planning on ordering
Raider L
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2020
- Posts
- 1,892
- Reaction score
- 1,001
- Location
- Shreveport, LA
- First Name
- William
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- 355
You know sometimes it amazes me how little attention I pay to some parts of my truck. I have no idea what those front radiator mounts on my truck look like. I don't think mine look like those. I think mine are solid and aren't ribbed like that, or whatever those are. When I rebuilt my truck I repalced all the cab and front mounts. I put in OEM rubber, but I used stainless steel bolts and nuts so they wouldn't rust in. I used stainless steel bolts, and fasteners every where on the truck that was practible in order to control rust. And boy was I right. There are fasteners I've had to remove lately and NO rust. They came right out! And I know those things have been in there the whole 25 years.
