She's got the shakes, need help locating the cause.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Turt13

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
62
Reaction score
58
Location
Wyoming
First Name
Travis
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Ok, so here's what she is:
81k20 4x4
350 w/ 1406 eldelbrock carb, some off brand or homemade headers, t400, np208 case

Here's what she's doing:
Starts right up, usually. If not, she will with a little throttle.
She's got a rough-ish idle. Can't tell if it's the idle for sure though, motor might just be shaking.
She will drop idle when put into gear, not without a large metallic clank when shifting from park to reverse, bigger clank when going from r-n-d, or d-n-r.
When put into gear, the shake gets worse. When under load, she's at the worst. We have to park on a hill, and to leave for work my lady has to put it in reverse, up the hill, and Vickie (truck) does not like it, at all. once in a while if she's not warm she will try dying.
Other times under load, like trying to speed up, especially on an incline, and at speeds of >45mph, don't know much about higher speeds, she just doesn't want to go and you can feel her 'shaking' all the way through the janky ass seat, floor boards, etc.
When deceleration is occurring, seems to be absent. If you have enough momentum, like before a hill or something, she doesn't do it as bad. She just doesnt have any umph.

Here's what has been done to try and help:
Plug wires were laying all over each other, used zip-ties to make spacers.
Cleaned up plugs I could get to at the time without the right tools, about 4-5/8. They were black and carboned. Couple had a little white with mostly black, and one was oily. They were bad. Can't afford decent new ones, current ones are auto lite cheapos, put in less then 3k miles ago.
Fuel filter- replaced last week, helped for the drive home from the parts store, kinda. It was also really bad, had what looked like sand, and black specs from the hose I'm assuming all over it.
Air filter- was getting pretty dark, replaced 2-3 weeks ago. At this time, iirc, it was after a friend helped adjust the carb, and oil leaks on the covers were being addressed. Vickie would screrch tires with little effort, and we didn't run her hard. Lasted for about a day. Air filter still getting dark from header leak I'm sure
Header gaskets- got one replaced today, the one I took off was blown out every cylinder. Other is planned to be done tomorrow. I believe this was the cause of my new air filter already getting crummy. And as well as the old. Hell, on the other side we have been missing a header bolt for a month or so that I know of.
1 week ago, Tested for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner and gauge, ,found two big holes in the hard line to the vacuum mod. On tyranny. Fixed that, temporary. Cleaned out line, patched it. This is when she started really acting up. Retested for leaks, couldn't determine any leaks anywhere.
Running strictly 91 w/o ethanol. Had sat this winter with 10% ethanol for a bit. Ran some type lucas cleaner through it when changed fuel filter. Have yet to test psi of fuel.
Found brace for t-case to motor was missing bolt on motor, planned to be fixed.
Timming adjusted with vacuum gauge, And rotation of cap. advanced a little and vacuum went to be 14-15 hgs. From 11 hg. Had to up idle speed to up vacuum as well. Adjust carb a bit, believe she's sitting at 15-16, has the ever so slightest flicker in the needle. Can hardly tell. This is at 6,800 ft elevation, btw.
With e brake on and in neutral, driveshaft moves about 1/4 rotation between back and forth, with clanking comming from t case. U joints seem to be decent shape.
Carb seems to be a little weird, don't know if the secondaries are opening. Could just be a symptom too, thinking they ain't when something v else is robbing the power and they are working. Idk.
She also has a chirping whistleyy sound when you press the throttle, trying g to locate the source of it.
Took cap off couple days ago, missing gasket at the bottom, I replaced it about 3.5-4k miles ago, looked in good shape, no cracks, no black trails, fireing order checked and double checked and it's right, 99% sure of that.


Could the violent shaking and motor movement be as simple as plugs, and header gasket?
Could the carb have gotten gummed up from the exhaust leak and sitting with ethanol fuel? I plan on taking it off and rebuilding it, or at least cleaning it up. Can't afford a kit atm, can the gaskets be reused until I can? The carb has been said to be brand new when I got the truck about 4k miles ago.
Harmonic ballencer had a hair line short tear in it, is that a possible culprit?
Could it be trajny/transfer case related? Motor seems pretty close to being in good running condition.
What about the trimming chain? Who knows when it was replaced, if ever, I haven't checked for play in it yet.
I've done plenty to this truck, and I'm frustrated because she has recently ran great, and then all of a sudden it seems like, trash. Idk what direction to go in at this point, and don't have much funds to keep throwing at things that honestly seem to help for a day, and then overall she gets worse. Next few days she won't have to move much, so I really hope to figure this out. She shakes at times so bad that I would like to park her till I figure it out. But atm, she's my only daily. She went from a rare occasion when she needed to be drove but started every week, last resort vehicle to the only daily. I can't afford to lose this one too, or any expensive repairs. Any help or insight will be appreciated, like I said I'm at a loss rn. Ill see if I can't get a video or two to show what's she's doing.
 

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,137
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
Ok, so here's what she is:
81k20 4x4
350


Dude.

:whymewhyme::throw:

:think:

Y U NO HAZ PIX?

Srsly guy. Go ahead and write a book .

Scrolled down lookin for pix of a 4x4:sawzall:
No pix.
Tl;dr
Dude writes a novel but i'll tell ya what, aint nobody readin that **** without no pix.

U pay first then ask question! :mad:
:rape:
Turt the Hurt! :ehcapt:
 
Last edited:

Turt13

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
62
Reaction score
58
Location
Wyoming
First Name
Travis
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
The only new pc's I have ain't really related to the problem. My lady has the phone, not me, so it's only here and there I get a chance to snap pics. But here if you insist:

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 

Turt13

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
62
Reaction score
58
Location
Wyoming
First Name
Travis
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
All interior. One sec I do have a pic of the gasket.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 

Turt13

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
62
Reaction score
58
Location
Wyoming
First Name
Travis
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
What window seals? Gaskets? Never heard of em.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,137
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
Omg that's awesome man..great pix.
Have a seat pal,

Hay y'all, LOOK!
You see them pictures I got the noob to post?
Them are good pictures man.

Lookit there.
That one there has an actual gas station price in it.
How old is that?
Lol.
I betcha these guys really dig stuff like that AND THEN

Wait,
What?

New guy gots a cherry uncut dash in a K20. :drool:

I'll read it...lol...if thatll help haha... Those pictures are good payment! :waytogo:
 

Turt13

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
62
Reaction score
58
Location
Wyoming
First Name
Travis
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
I'm just trying to get some help man. Pics are from today.
Yes I'm a noob. At least I'm trying to figure **** out and make some sort of progress on this old pos.
I like my pictures, maybe one day they will show what it once was.
But more likely, Imma sell this chevy and wash my hands of it.
 

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,137
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
Thats when it really started messin up.
The trans modulator. Is really cheap but you should go back over this 100%

Yeah it DOES got another power loss.
It doesn't like reverse is a hint?
The "1/4 turn" in the driveshaft sounds bad.
Youre gonna have to check the transfer case fluid level.
And the fluid level in the front differential.
And the fluid level in the rear differential.
And the transmission fluid level.
But first check the oil. ;)

Sand came out of the fuel filter?
I would change it again.
Already.

I think ethanol would be an issue were the carb not so new. I dont believe it is worthy of these considerations providing it is correctly installed.
Maybe what you describe sounds kind of like a classic vacuum leak ... how is the brake pedal?
You can verify intake manifold and carburetor bolts are good n tight, right?
They got that one-way check valve near there..
 
Last edited:

Turt13

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
62
Reaction score
58
Location
Wyoming
First Name
Travis
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Haven't checked t case yet, but check oil and trans almost daily, diffs checked few days ago, clean and full.
Yeah I didn't like the movement in the shaft either, haven't thought about t case much till the past couple days, since the accident I was in had me in bed for a couple months and my limits still on mobility, getting under her for the t case slipped my mind. Planned on checking it today.
Do you know of any procedures to check the t case health, besides noob level of checking fluids?
Intake bolts haven't checked, checked as much as I could with carb cleaner and vacuum gauge, no noticeable signs. Ill take a look at it again.
Brakes-well that's a stressful situation. Master leaks fluid, seaps more like. Couple hoses up.front are on their way out. Brakes are squishy, not terrible though, which leads to a vacuum leak. Didn't hear one with carb cleaner though..doesnt mean there's not. Only problem is I know the rotors are pretty groovy, and I cant check the pads with tires and rims I have. And I'm not to sure I'm medically cleared to be moving tires around. I did however source a parts donor that has had recent master and maybe even booster. Planned on changing that out in a week or two, but then again, brakes are gonna be a fkn task for me.
Vac mod- I will revisit that, commen sense says, oh that's when it started? Then here's you sign. Thanks for that one, how'd I miss that..
Check valve? Pcv? It's as new as the air filter, with a new grommet. Don't think it's 100% air tight though. Damn close though.
So, summary, since you seem to like novels,
I'll order vac mod, check t case fluid, recheck brake vacuum, re check intake with bolts this time, try to find ways of figuring out the health of t case without taking it out, learn how to do a master and booster replacement, watch fuel filter, check fuel psi, other header gasket, and make sure I check oil and trans fluid.
If the mod was bad, wouldn't it be burning atf? Fluid hasn't moved since I had her tbh. Maybe a hair lower, but really just a hair.
Or shifting late? It stopped that when I fixed the leaks, except didn't like kickdown to much after. Maybe it sucked in some grime, and now is only half working instead of not at all.
I'm leaning to t case, or brake booster. Hoping it would be just plugs or vac mod. But that's kinda a huge gap, you know?
Hope this isnt to long for ya. Actually, no, I don't care if it is, but,
Don't worry.
Ill take pics.
 

82sbshortbed

Fuckemall!!
Joined
Mar 1, 2018
Posts
15,964
Reaction score
53,762
Location
SE Texas
First Name
Doug
Truck Year
1982, 1984
Truck Model
1500 shortbed, 1500 longbed
Engine Size
454, 305
Don't worry about rusty he's just messing with ya. As long as you post pics and don't let him catch you try'n to sell ice cream on his street you'll be fine.

Don't give up on her yet. You came to the right place for help. These guys know a ton about these trucks I'm sure you'll get the help you need.
 

Termite_Delight

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Posts
675
Reaction score
1,258
Location
Lanark Ontario Canada
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
1976 1975
Truck Model
K2500 K2500
Engine Size
350 L33
It sounds like you need a new rear universal joint, that would be the cause of your "metallic clank"
 

eskimomann209

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Posts
1,849
Reaction score
2,005
Location
Modesto
First Name
Marcus
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
5.3
I’m saying bad u joint or loose mount but I’m in the boat of way too long didn’t read. I always say don’t tell me a story, tell me what’s wrong. So we can fix it and move on.

The clunk when shifting from one direction to another makes me think it’s somewhere IN or NEAR the driveline. Could be bad angles, loose transfer case or bad joints. Take pics of those things if you can.
 

Jethro224

Full Access Member
Joined
May 11, 2020
Posts
107
Reaction score
112
Location
Illinois
First Name
Jim
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Next thing I would do would be to check the compression on all of the cylinders. Especially since one of the plugs you pulled was oily.
Kinda sounds like you have at least one cyl not firing.
The clank is probably something different.
Good luck. Hope it ain't a cracked head, burnt valve, or bad rings.

If compression is good I'd try ALL new plugs and maybe wires.
 

eskimomann209

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Posts
1,849
Reaction score
2,005
Location
Modesto
First Name
Marcus
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
5.3
Next thing I would do would be to check the compression on all of the cylinders. Especially since one of the plugs you pulled was oily.
Kinda sounds like you have at least one cyl not firing.
The clank is probably something different.
Good luck. Hope it ain't a cracked head, burnt valve, or bad rings.

If compression is good I'd try ALL new plugs and maybe wires.

Lmfao, after actually reading his post I feel like it’s everything except the head. I think burnt valve and bad rings. I also read that he swapped the plugs and it ran for a day or two. Making me think that originally oily plug is oily again. I’d swap that one out and see if she shapes up @Turt13
You might be doing that every couple days until you rering it. But that truck sounds seriously neglected for a long time to trust as a daily.
 

Turt13

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
62
Reaction score
58
Location
Wyoming
First Name
Travis
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Everyone I know it's a lot to read, but I'm just trying to give as much info as I can cuz I've done a decent bit to her and looked over a handful of things.
-The mount/brace bar from the t case to the motor is missing a bolt on the motor side. Could that cause such vibrations?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,409
Posts
956,898
Members
36,728
Latest member
jdickson
Top