School Me on Front End Parts

[legopnuematic]

In order to continue the restoration of my 79 going, I'm going to get the frame soon to get a couple parts off of it and then arrange to have it dustless blasted, take it all apart and then get to rebuilding and painting everything. After that start putting it back together and get the cab mocked up on it to verify the location of the mounts still plays along with everything.

I have no reason to believe that worn out front end components were the reason (or part of the reason) why the truck got parked, I know for certain now that the trans was cooked and figure that was the main reason why. When I flat towed it it tracked great and didn't seem to have any death wobble. But being that everything has sat for so long with not being greased properly and just recently spending a few months underwater, I want to for the peace of mind replace all the front end components.

So with that said, I plan to replace/use:
-control arm bushings (already have energy suspension kit)
-ball joints
-tie rods
-idler arm
-pitman arm
-put solid tie rod end sleeves to replace the 3 piece design
-Borgeson steering shaft (to eliminate ragjoint)
-Wheel bearings & seals
-Front coils (will keep HD rating coils)
-brake proportioning valve

I have heard good and bad things about most brands for these types of components, so I'd like some input on what others have used and how it has held up, I have no issue with spending a little more for quality components. Truck is a 6200lb GVWR Big Ten and I plan to take advantage of its GVWR so I'd like to retain heavy duty components where possible.

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[idahovette]

In the first part of my career, I used GM parts cause I worked at the local Chev-Cad dealership(12 years). Then on to the local Co-op, where I used almost exclusively Moog parts. When I opened my own shop, we used mostly Napa brand stuff cause it was handy and pretty good parts, not hardly any warranty work from failures. The time lines for the dealer was from 1968 to 1980, the Co-op was 1980 to 1997 and my shop was 1998 to 2017. I think the first line Napa linkage/suspension parts are still pretty good. I am still in the same town and relatively easy to find and no one has come looking for me yet, except to BS at my new hobby shop!

 

[bluex]

I like to use MOOG, always had good luck with them.

On the solid tie rod adjusters QA1 5252 is what i use there.

Timken on the bearings an seals.

On the proportioning valve Idk if you'll find a replacement. I've seen lots of people look but they never say if they found one or not.

 

[TravisB]

Doing the front end in my truck right now. I haven't got it together enough to tell you how well anything works yet but can tell you what I bought.

I have Energy poly bushings, AC Delco outer tie rods and Raybestos/Spicer inner tie rod ends and ball joints, with timken bearings and seals. I am going to cheap out and re-use my pitman and idler arm because they felt good

I have CPP coils, hoping to re-use the prop valve, and @Camar068 hooked me up with a Jeep steering shaft but I think I will have to modify the upper joint like @bluex wrote up about in another thread. I would bet you will have your truck rolling before mine though to start testing with the progress you have been making on the cab. I haven't even touched the body really. I need to replace the floor pans I guess since the metal is so thin and one brace and have been waiting on you to show me how that works

 

[Craig 85]

I mainly use Napa, ACDelco or GM parts if I can find them. Never had any issue with Napa parts. I've been using them for 30 years.

I recently switched to the Jeep steering shaft and it really makes a difference in road feel. You only have to make a minor notch in the upper steering shaft. I used Crown Automotive #4713943.

 

[idahovette]

In the first part of my career, I used GM parts cause I worked at the local Chev-Cad dealership(12 years). Then on to the local Co-op, where I used almost exclusively Moog parts. When I opened my own shop, we used mostly Napa brand stuff cause it was handy and pretty good parts, not hardly any warranty work from failures. The time lines for the dealer was from 1968 to 1980, the Co-op was 1980 to 1997 and my shop was 1998 to 2017. I think the first line Napa linkage/suspension parts are still pretty good. I am still in the same town and relatively easy to find and no one has come looking for me yet, except to BS at my new hobby shop!

You may notice a gap in my timeline(97-98) I got in a bad way and worked at a fored dealership for about a year before I opened my shop. I'm sorry sorry sorry, it was a VERY bad time in my life and I promise to NEVER do it again!!

 

[legopnuematic]

I like to use MOOG, always had good luck with them.

On the solid tie rod adjusters QA1 5252 is what i use there.

Timken on the bearings an seals.

On the proportioning valve Idk if you'll find a replacement. I've seen lots of people look but they never say if they found one or not.

Good info on the QA1 adjusters! Thats what I figured on the proportioning valves, It seems like a lot of people have issues with the generic replacements sticking or the shuttle getting stuck or leaks. I wonder if a late 80's/early 90's van prop valve could be retrofitted on a square. There is quite a few of those vans at my local junkyard so I think I will take a look at them next time I'm there. Don't need to worry about the lines since I need to make all of those anyways.

 

[legopnuematic]

Doing the front end in my truck right now. I haven't got it together enough to tell you how well anything works yet but can tell you what I bought.

I have Energy poly bushings, AC Delco outer tie rods and Raybestos/Spicer inner tie rod ends and ball joints, with timken bearings and seals. I am going to cheap out and re-use my pitman and idler arm because they felt good

I have CPP coils, hoping to re-use the prop valve, and @Camar068 hooked me up with a Jeep steering shaft but I think I will have to modify the upper joint like @bluex wrote up about in another thread. I would bet you will have your truck rolling before mine though to start testing with the progress you have been making on the cab. I haven't even touched the body really. I need to replace the floor pans I guess since the metal is so thin and one brace and have been waiting on you to show me how that works

It may be a while before the floors are in, I need to get the roof seam, pass A-pillar, firewall, back of the cab, cab corners (inner and outer) and passenger rocker finished first Verify that the cab mount holes line up with the frame and that it is sitting level, get the cab blasted, get the side mount supports in, then start on the floors.

 

[fried_daddy]

Have you installed any of your energy suspension parts yet? I'm thinking about ordering the master bushing kit from them for my truck.

 

[bluex]

Have you installed any of your energy suspension parts yet? I'm thinking about ordering the master bushing kit from them for my truck.

I've done a few set's of the control arm bushings now. It's time consuming but worth it.

 

[fried_daddy]

I've done a few set's of the control arm bushings now. It's time consuming but worth it.

Nice! You have any pics of them installed on factory control arms?

 

[legopnuematic]

Have you installed any of your energy suspension parts yet? I'm thinking about ordering the master bushing kit from them for my truck.

Not yet, but I have heard a lot of good things about their parts so I think you will like them. I purchased mine through rock auto as it was the cheapest place. Most important thing is to use their grease liberally, otherwise they will squeak bad from what I have been told

 

[Snoots]

You may notice a gap in my timeline(97-98) I got in a bad way and worked at a fored dealership for about a year before I opened my shop. I'm sorry sorry sorry, it was a VERY bad time in my life and I promise to NEVER do it again!!

We do what we have to do. No apology needed.

 

[TravisB]

Nice! You have any pics of them installed on factory control arms?

I bought the energy kit and put them in factory control arms. Check my build thread for some pics.

 

[legopnuematic]

We do what we have to do. No apology needed.

If it keeps the books balanced, that's all that matters. It like the saying- $20 is $20

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