SBC rocker adjustment problem

[75Monza]

Okay, ran across something that I'd never seen before or maybe just never noticed on my plow truck 350. Basics...this is a 350 4 bolt GM Goodwrench motor that was in my 82 plow truck about 10k on motor, PO did some cooling system no-no's and ended up with blown head gasket and warped head. I took it down, checked the bearings, did all the seals on the short block, rebuilt another set of heads I had laying around, just press in studs, not screw in. Just a basic performer cam in it that was fine, re-used it, lifters and pushrods, but changed over to cast roller tip rockers, long slot. I coated everything with break-in lube even though most was not new, never thought about soaking lifters (not sure it even makes a difference) and adjusted the valves on the stand using a 4 rotation individual valve adjustment that I found in a book (my short term memory is shot from many concussions, so couldn't remember how I used to do it) with a degree wheel on to keep track. When I was done, just doesn't seem right. Re-checked and had severe slop at #1 I when it should have been where I adjusted it to.
Someone got a link to the proper hydraulic valve adjustment procedure? Unless there is something else (dread the thought, stud pulling out) think that procedure I did sucked.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Double Dingo's 1965 3/4 Ton "Crusty Biscuit" Post #225 I posted the two-roll method from the shop manual.

 

[gpmorgan]

I always do them one cyl at a time. Yeah it's a lot of turning but a tried a true method. With any oversize cam, I would thread and install screw in studs. Haste makes waste they say.

 

[75Monza]

I always do them one cyl at a time. Yeah it's a lot of turning but a tried a true method. With any oversize cam, I would thread and install screw in studs. Haste makes waste they say.

I would have done that, just don't have a stud boss cutter to take the boss down to the right height for screw in. My uncle is old time engine builder, the way they used to do it was pin the studs, I wasn't too fond of that idea.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

What seat pressure is required for your cam and what is the opening pressure of your springs? At the end of the day that’s what’s gonna pull them studs if it’s gonna happen.

 

[75Monza]

Not much, Eldebrock performer plus cam with the 5802 springs from the old heads. Now that you got me thinking of thread in studs, got to looking at getting a boss cutter since I have the removal and thread die guide already (from a previous attempt at being a dumb ass, did a set of heads and didn't realize you needed to cut the boss down, lol). I'm looking at either Comp Cams #4729 cutter or CHS #SL9311 cutter. Sort of like the Cylinder Head Supply one even though almost twice the cost of the Comp cams, because you can use it before pulling the stud and uses the stud as the guide as you mill the boss down and it's fitted with a replaceable carbide bit, 3 tip, just a normal tool bit for lathe. Anybody used one before?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Not much, Eldebrock performer plus cam with the 5802 springs from the old heads. Now that you got me thinking of thread in studs, got to looking at getting a boss cutter since I have the removal and thread die guide already (from a previous attempt at being a dumb ass, did a set of heads and didn't realize you needed to cut the boss down, lol). I'm looking at either Comp Cams #4729 cutter or CHS #SL9311 cutter. Sort of like the Cylinder Head Supply one even though almost twice the cost of the Comp cams, because you can use it before pulling the stud and uses the stud as the guide as you mill the boss down and it's fitted with a replaceable carbide bit, 3 tip, just a normal tool bit for lathe. Anybody used one before?

No but I’d go with the one that uses the stud just my .02

 

[75Monza]

The Comp Cams uses the empty hole to put the pilot end in as a guide while you mill, just not very fond of that idea, although probably would work fine. I didn't see instructions with either cutter, so just a guess around a 600 rpm speed with coolant for cutting based on head material.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

The Comp Cams uses the empty hole to put the pilot end in as a guide while you mill, just not very fond of that idea, although probably would work fine. I didn't see instructions with either cutter, so just a guess around a 600 rpm speed with coolant for cutting based on head material.

That’s one area I’m not framiliar with machine work @74 Shortbed could tell ya