Roller break-in?

[Backfoot100]

When you drive from sea level to 14000’, a carb will need to be rejetted to run well. I go to both elevations regularly enough to not want to deal with it.

If I lived in Florida where the highest elevation is 345’ , I’d run a carb too.

Wow, you don't normally hear of those kind of alt. changes on a regular basis. 5 or 6k I hear alot of.
I understand completely but I personally would still have a carb. At least until I drove it enough times to not wanna deal with it anymore.

As for roller break in, its not needed. I put a retrofit roller setup in my 383 when I built it for my boat. Just normal engine break in procedures. 400hrs later and all is still good and rock solid.

 

[KilgoreTrout]

Roller cams do not need to be broken in - if you care to read further here is a link to the Pace web page - https://paceperformance.com/p-3978-engine-start-up-procedure.html

You still want to make sure and seat the piston rings. There are a lot of opinions on the right process. I personally am a fan of the hard break in procedure.

I've always been fascinated by everyone's opinions on ring break in.
I bought a new KLR650 and researched the hell out of people's opinions, because quite a few of them were known for oil consumption and I didn't want that.
One well known and respected thumper builder swore by hard break-ins.
So I wrung the bike's neck for the first like 300 miles everywhere I went. I'd redline engine brake it between stop signs and ****. [emoji3]
It never burned a drop of oil, though, so I don't know.

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[rpcraft]

I'm in the same boat. Most vehicles now days have some pre-break in done on a test run at the plant but I'm never sure about crate motors but I know that the easy break in seems to cause more issues with long term ring wear and lower compression at an earlier stage of life. I had a good friend that had an acura engine rebuilt for about 3K back in the day and he broke it in easy and within about 5,000 miles it started smoking again and it actually got so bad he opted to have it rebuilt by a different person (because he got money back on a warranty) and the guy that rebuilt it the second time said take it out and just run it hard because the coating on the rings was what dictates how you break it in so ever since then I always figure it's best to speak with the manufacturer of the ring packs and see what the advise.

 

[82sbshortbed]

I've always been fascinated by everyone's opinions on ring break in.
I bought a new KLR650 and researched the hell out of people's opinions, because quite a few of them were known for oil consumption and I didn't want that.
One well known and respected thumper builder swore by hard break-ins.
So I wrung the bike's neck for the first like 300 miles everywhere I went. I'd redline engine brake it between stop signs and ****. [emoji3]
It never burned a drop of oil, though, so I don't know.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

I had a bunch of different dirt bikes and street bikes years ago. I was always told when breaking in New rings that you should take it easy for about a tank and a half. And on 2 strokes don't hit the power band for about the same amount of time.

Well, when I was working at Texas Yamaha I found out that was all ********. Guy bought a brand new Yz250 and the head mechanic Ron was getting it ready for the guy to come get in a couple of hours. He fired it up and immediately began reving the **** out of it. I thought why in the **** would you do that? So I asked him and told him what I'd been told. He said you have to seat the rings. If you don't seat them high as you can to the top of the cylinder you will leave a lip on the cylinder. Then if you rev it higher than you did when seating the rings you'll run into that lip and **** them up. He told be break it in like your gonna drive it. Makes sense when you get a vehicle that a grandma drove that just got groceries and stuff and you know she never dogged it. Then you drive it harder than she ever did you run into problems.

 

[shiftpro]

I like to heat cycle a new engine a few times. Then take it out and pound it.

 

[Frankenchevy]

Wow, you don't normally hear of those kind of alt. changes on a regular basis. 5 or 6k I hear alot of.
I understand completely but I personally would still have a carb.

That’s an atypical exaggeration, but happens for us. We visit my wife’s family down south in Huntington Beach a handful of times a year. I like to take 395 through the eastern slope of the sierras. Goes from 0-14000 pretty quick.

I hear you though. My newer dirt scooter is efi and it’s great. Ride in the valley at less than 500’ and it pulls, take it up to Foresthill well over a mile high and pulls the same per my but dyno. What it does lack is that crisp snappiness that a perfectly tuned carbureted 2 stroke will deliver. No doubt about it.

 

[Backfoot100]

I like to heat cycle a new engine a few times. Then take it out and pound it.

+1 and what 82sbshortbed and rpcraft stated.
I ran my boat at constantly changing RPM for the three or four times out which was a couple hours. That period had numerous short blasts at full throttle too.
After that drive it like you stole it. My only complaint is that I do have some oil consumption but being a boat motor the rings need to have more gap. Forged pistons don't help either.
The basturd pulls like a raped ape though and we run at barefoot speeds every time out. It doesn't get babied so I'm perfectly OK with some oil consumption.

 

[metal tech]

the breakin oil is ok. I would make sure that the gas tank was at least 1/2 full with good gas 91/93. After you prime it and fire it up let it run long enough to top off the coolant. Check for leaks, Fuel, oil and coolant if you have none get it out on the road and moderately accelerate to put a load on the rings. Do this for several times, babying the rings can lead to them not seating properly