replaced heads/intake wont start

[1984c10]

Before I posted this I've searched everywhere and tried everything I can think of for the past week or so. I just installed vortec heads and intake and can't get it to start for anything. It cranks but will not start. Plugs get wet with fuel but dont think there is spark. I've put it to tdc by watching the intake on the #1 close and setting the balancer to 0. Ive also did the finger over the #1 plug hole too and set it to 0. each time my rotor is on the #1 plug wire. Ive done both of these about 5 times each and getting the same result. Also moved the distributor a tooth over each way and same. The truck ran fine before the swap. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor have maybe 60 miles on them.

Looking for any help, ideas, common mistakes made during intake replacements. Thank you

Engine is a 350 HEI distributor edelbrock 600cfm, headers, vortec heads, summit stage 1 intake, th400

 

[tanz45]

Check for any spark?

Even if your timing is way off, enough fuel in the cylinders is gonna give you something.

Pop or a bang

 

[1984c10]

Im not a mechanic and still learning. What would be the easiest way to do so? I'm thinking no spark since it wont fire and fuel on the plugs

 

[1984c10]

I took the wire off of the #1 and used a spare plug i had and connected it to the wire while holding it and it didnt spark while cranking if that helps

 

[austinado16]

Remove any of the spark plugs, put it back into the plug wire that was attached to it, and then rest the plug's metal body on a bare metal piece of the engine. If you have a helper, have them crank the engine over while you watch the plug. It should spark. If it doesn't, and you're sure you have it resting on something bare metal, so that it's grounded well, then you don't have spark.

If you don't have spark, repeat the test, but this time, remove the coil wire from the distributor and lay it's end near something bare metal. You may need to stick a screwdriver into the boot so that the screwdriver is touching the metal contact up in there, and then rest the blade of the screwdriver near bare metal. Again, have the helper crank the engine over. You should see a fat spark that'll jump 1/4" or more.

Make sure the distributor is fully seated and that the rotor is spinning.

It shouldn't be hard to place the crankshaft at TDC for #1 (#1 piston rises and both of it's rocker arms do not move the entire time) and then with the distributor cap removed, look at where the rotor is pointing. It should point to the location on the cap, of the #1 plug wire. If it doesn't, pull the distributor, clock the rotor correctly, reinstal, and as the gears on the distributor drive mesh, the rotor should swing to point at #1.

 

[foamypirate]

Is the 12V power wire to the distributor hooked up? Does it get 12V?

 

[1984c10]

austinado16 I'm going to try that. I didnt have the plug near metal when I tried it. I'm almost positive that i'm on TDC. I'm going to have to wait until later when I have a helper to do this.

foamypirate I currently dont have a multimeter to verify it has power but yes it is connected. There is black connector plugged into the cap closest to the firewall and a white connector with a large red wire that plugs into it. It worked fine before and just removed it and replaced it to the the swap

 

[350runner]

Valves too tight maybe? How did you set them?

 

[1984c10]

I set them off of the TDC rotating pushrods until there was a little drag and then 1/2 turn. Adjusted from TDC the 1 intake and exhaust 2,5,7 intake valves and 3,4,8 exhaust. Rotated 360 degrees and did 3,4,6,8 intake and 2,5,6,7 exhaust. the valves open and close when I rotate by hand. I might just do them all over again since I haven't tried that yet

 

[austinado16]

Don't do any mechanical work until you verify spark.

Always work from the simple toward the complex.

Re-check your distributor timing while you wait for a helper. Once you have made certain that the crank, the cam, and the distributor rotor are at TDC for #1....none of this "I think"..... then pursue being able to see spark. You might be able to crank it over and look below the back edge of the hood to see the spark plug that you've propped up. Or, run down to the autoparts store and purchase a remote start button. One lead clips to the big battery cable connected on the starter solenoid, and the other lead clips to the small wire on the solenoid. Push the button and the starter will crank the engine over while you're standing there. If you have the key in the run position, it'll spark....and/or start up. Worth buying, so that you can work at your own pace and not have to have a helper standing around.

 

[Jims86]

austinado16 I'm going to try that. I didnt have the plug near metal when I tried it. I'm almost positive that i'm on TDC. I'm going to have to wait until later when I have a helper to do this.

foamypirate I currently dont have a multimeter to verify it has power but yes it is connected. There is black connector plugged into the cap closest to the firewall and a white connector with a large red wire that plugs into it. It worked fine before and just removed it and replaced it to the the swap

Grab a 12 volt bulb and wire it up to make a test light.

 

[1984c10]

Wouldn't it have to be on on TDC if I watch the #1 intake open and close and keep turning until back to 0 and both the #1 valves are closed? Anyway I have a bigger problem now. While adjusting my valves again to make sure they weren't too tight I found the the #8 intake valve rocker is extremely loose while #1 is at tdc. When I rotate 360 degrees it is tight like it should be. So I pulled the pushrod thinking it might be bent and its not. Does this mean a flattened cam lobe?

 

[chengny]

Flattened cam lobe?... that's quite a jump.

Listen to Todd:

Don't do any mechanical work until you verify spark.

Always work from the simple toward the complex.

Verify a healthy blue/white spark across the electrodes of a plug - grounded to the engine block and while the starter is cranking.

 

[1984c10]

Flattened cam lobe?... that's quite a jump.

Listen to Todd:

Don't do any mechanical work until you verify spark.

Always work from the simple toward the complex.

Verify a healthy blue/white spark across the electrodes of a plug - grounded to the engine block and while the starter is cranking.

not sure why thats quite a jump. why else would the rocker get so loose when the pushrod is straight? all of the other valves are fine. maybe a bad lifter? I will verify spark but dont see how it matters at this point when I know there is a problem with the #8 and wouldnt run it like this anyway

 

[BigAl285]

How did you adjust the valves? Did you prime the motor before you adjusted the valves and make sure you had oil coming out of the push rods? Do you have switched power going to the cap? Are the wires plugged into the cap? I've managed to think I had them plugged in but the plug was loose an it wasn't even plugged in. Sounds like you have a wire not connected right something over looked. When I'm making sure I'm on TDC I will have a zip tie in the hole an feel the piston go up an watch the timing mark. It helped me while I was learning about all this helped me make sure I was on tdc