Relocating Center Pin

[Frankenchevy]

ORD asked if I want my center pin relocated 1” forward in the front springs on my 3” custom springs. The wheel looks pretty well centered in the opening now. I’m not really wheeling this truck, just logging roads and fire roads.

Any thoughts?

 

[Bennyt]

I did it on my K5 using their 1" block which allows for various center pin adjustments. It keeps the rear of the front tire from making contact on the fender under full compression. Plus, "people on the internet" say it rides/ handles better.

As a side note: I recommend the block as it bolts in the spring pack and increases the surface area of where the spring pack makes contact on the perches.

 

[bucket]

How about 1/2" forward instead? Just a little more lower fender clearance and the wheel should still look centered.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I did it on my K5 using their 1" block which allows for various center pin adjustments. It keeps the rear of the front tire from making contact on the fender under full compression. Plus, "people on the internet" say it rides/ handles better.

As a side note: I recommend the block as it bolts in the spring pack and increases the surface area of where the spring pack makes contact on the perches.

What height lift do you have? Do you mind posting up a pic of the front wheel from the side?

How about 1/2" forward instead? Just a little more lower fender clearance and the wheel should still look centered.

this was my thought. I left them a message this morning, but they’re probably tired of hearing from me, lol

I’ve gone back and forth on 3 or 4” lift in my head a dozen times. First world problems are real!

 

[shiftpro]

What size tires do you want to run? Or, better question is what size tires will your gear ratios support?

A 3" lift will ride slightly better than 4"... because there is just a skiff less arch in the springs. The flatter the springs, the better they work and more flex is available. I understand you're not looking for flex but thought I would mention it.

If you just want more height, consider a 1" body lift.(no more please..!). It makes it easier to pull the dizzy.. it's easier to keep the frame clean
if you're into playing in the mud.

 

[Frankenchevy]

What size tires do you want to run? Or, better question is what size tires will your gear ratios support?

A 3" lift will ride slightly better than 4"... because there is just a skiff less arch in the springs. The flatter the springs, the better they work and more flex is available. I understand you're not looking for flex but thought I would mention it.

If you just want more height, consider a 1" body lift.(no more please..!). It makes it easier to pull the dizzy.. it's easier to keep the frame clean
if you're into playing in the mud.

While I currently have no lift on my k30 and run 33’s, ORD states that with a 3 inch lift I should not go up in tire size because there is so much more flex and wheel travel with their custom Springs than my factory 1-1/4 ton springs. I currently have 3.73 gears and I’m staying there. I think it’ll be a good ratio with the nv4500 gearing.

 

[Bennyt]

What height lift do you have? Do you mind posting up a pic of the front wheel from the side?



this was my thought. I left them a message this morning, but they’re probably tired of hearing from me, lol

I’ve gone back and forth on 3 or 4” lift in my head a dozen times. First world problems are real!

On my K5, I had a 4" Pro-Comp Spring and 1" ez block, on rear 4" spring and 2.5" flip kit. I ran 33's which were perfect, 35's that touched the fender under compression, and finally 37's at the end because they were cheap. 5 years ago, you could buy Hummer tires for $75-100 new.

Personally, I would do the 3" Springs and add the 1" spring block. The block(ORD, DIY4x, etc) has a centered, 1 & 1/2", or 1" adjustment so you can play with to your liking. Then add the 88-91 front spring hangers which add 1/2".

or, relocate the front hanger and install longer springs for better ride.


For rear, stock springs and 4' flip kit.

 

[Frankenchevy]

On my K5, I had a 4" Pro-Comp Spring and 1" ez block, on rear 4" spring and 2.5" flip kit. I ran 33's which were perfect, 35's that touched the fender under compression, and finally 37's at the end because they were cheap. 5 years ago, you could buy Hummer tires for $75-100 new.

Personally, I would do the 3" Springs and add the 1" spring block. The block(ORD, DIY4x, etc) has a centered, 1/2", or 1" adjustment so you can play with to your liking. Then add the 88-91 front spring hangers which add 1/2".

or, relocate the front hanger and install longer springs for better ride.


For rear, stock springs and 4' flip kit.

If they’ve already began building the springs, would it be possible to take the springs with the center pin located one inch forward and flip the blocks you’re referring to and move the axle back 1/2”?

I have the hd front shackles, which are longer like the ‘88+ ones.

 

[Craig 85]

ORD's Zero rate blocks are 1" increments, where as their Offset plate will go as small as 1/2".

Here's the reference on my front end with 33's and the axle in the stock location. Excuse the squat in the the photo, there's 2200 LBS of river rock in there. One thing to consider with the 4" lift or moving the axle forward is you will probably need to lengthen drive shaft. My front was going to be short even with the 3" lift. The splines in the drive shaft were bad for some reason, so I had a new section added with a longer splined area. On the rear my 205 has a slip yoke. With the 3" lift it only pulled out about 3/8", so I didn't need to lengthen it.

The other thing to consider is overall height. I measured my truck before I lifted it. With the 3" front HD lift spring, replacing a couple rear broken springs and adding a 3" block netted me 3.5" of lift in the front and 3.75" in the rear. I compared this to my last truck photo #2 (a K15 with a 4" lift). The K30 at the horizonal body line 1" taller in front and 2.25" taller in the rear than the K15.
K30 3" lift

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K15 4" lift

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[Bennyt]

If they’ve already began building the springs, would it be possible to take the springs with the center pin located one inch forward and flip the blocks you’re referring to and move the axle back 1/2”?

I have the hd front shackles, which are longer like the ‘88+ ones.

Yes, but let me correct myself and say that they are actually 1" and 1.5" offset, so that would put you back to stock.
Personally the 1" forward in the springs is probably the best set-up for ride and interference. Unless you go with the long spring set-up with relocated hangers which doesn't sound like it coincides with your intended use.

 

[shiftpro]

While I currently have no lift on my k30 and run 33’s, ORD states that with a 3 inch lift I should not go up in tire size because there is so much more flex and wheel travel with their custom Springs than my factory 1-1/4 ton springs. I currently have 3.73 gears and I’m staying there. I think it’ll be a good ratio with the nv4500 gearing.

Right on... and I agree yes those 3" springs will flex more.. but if you're not pushing it like you suggested, fire roads, you would be ok.

That brings up something (unrelated to your truck, or better yet, to your needs)...
the old school 4 and 6" lift springs are way over sprung to prevent metal to tire... also, back in the day before someone figured out to lengthen the rear hanger (front springs), a 4" lift spring with enough of a bump and maybe add the weight of a winch you would actually bottom out on the frame. The rear 'eye' would contact the frame ending any spring compression. This 'bottoming' if far more brutal than bottoming on the rubber doodad. I've even seen older square who were driven hard with a 4" spring, the frame where the eye contacts is actually worn right through or well on the way. The band aid for this was so much spring rate there was basically only an inch compression and depending on shock length, maybe an inch of droop. This old school lift equation basically created a truck without functional front suspension.

 

[Matt Frediani]

I have a set of OFF Road Designs 1" block with the 3 position offset for the pin. It also comes with the leaf spring bolts as well. New and never used. I will sell for $45.00 plus shipping.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I’m going to give the springs a try as built before doing anything else.

 

[77 K20]

I think you'd be fine with the center pin in the stock location. And in the future if you change your mind ORDs axle relocation plates are only 1/4" thick and you can then move the axle forward 0.5"/1"/1.5"

Are you going to keep using your sway bar? This will limit wheel travel and prevent you from potentially rubbing on the rear of the wheel well.

If you do ever go on some real rough fire roads you might want to get out and check the temperature of your front shocks. I overheated my Bilstein 5125 shocks on the front of my truck with the ORD custom springs. Couldn't keep my hand on them. I found some Bilstein remote reservoir shocks and installed those instead. They get pretty warm- but do much better and limit the shock fade.