Rebuild an engine in the truck

[hunters628]

So I can’t find info in this. I want to know if anyone has ever done a re-ring kit with the engine still in the truck. I know big diesels are rebuild in frame all the time but I’ve never seen a light truck engine done. I ask because I don’t have an engine stand or hoist and don’t want to buy one as of yet. My 350 was weather seized and I want to do the bare minimum to get it running for a month or 2 until I can finish the rebuild of my 6.2 and swap it in. Am I crazy?

 

[yevgenievich]

Easier to pull core support and yank it out with couple of friends once the heads are off. That was how we got the motor out of my Camaro when I did not have an engine hoist. Regular short block sbc is a two person lift. Otherwise the cross member below the oil pan will be heavily in the way.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

I think you’ll end up having troubles with the front two cylinders while the motor is in the truck, you can probably do it but it would be a hassle. Also, with it in the truck you’re going to be getting up and down A LOT lol.

 

[hunters628]

Well I’ll try pulling the heads and beating the engine free and see how it runs. If it’s horrible I’ll go for rings. I’ve seen guys do main and rod bearings with the engine in so I know if I have to I can do those lol. Thanks for the info

 

[Dmack]

the John Deere guys trick for freeing up a seized engine is to adapt a spark plug to take a grease zerk fitting, thread it into one of the cylinders with all the others removed. Hook up a grease gun and let hydraulics do the work.

 

[hunters628]

the John Deere guys trick for freeing up a seized engine is to adapt a spark plug to take a grease zerk fitting, thread it into one of the cylinders with all the others removed. Hook up a grease gun and let hydraulics do the work.

I’ve don’t that before with a VW engine. Totally forgot about that trick! Just makes one hell of a mess! And I’m not sure how it would work on an engine with multiple stuck pistons. On the VW I got lucky and only had one stuck piston. Busted loose easily

 

[bucket]

If you are going to rebuild a 6.2 and install it at some point, you are going to need a hoist and stand anyway.

 

[hunters628]

If you are going to rebuild a 6.2 and install it at some point, you are going to need a hoist and stand anyway.

I knew that but the bills this month are making things tight and I couldn’t afford getting a hoist and stand yet. Getting the truck running is more important until I can find a deal on a stand and hoist.

 

[legopnuematic]

I'd pull the engine out if possible. It is much harder to keep a clean working area with the engine still installed, most of time the cross members on these trucks are so caked with gunk, that some of that will likely end up inside the engine. Working upside down isn't really ideal with the gunk falling in your face either.

 

[trukman1]

Local rentals usually rent hoists. You could probably find a friend with an engine stand if you try. You could even Facebook to see if someone will loan you a stand.

Have you tried putting some ATF (or some kind of "break free solvent" in the cylinders overnight to free up pistons? A long breaker bar, turning first in the direction to tighten balancer bolt then alternating trying to turn one way then another, after engine starts to rotate, can sometimes free up a stuck piston.

Be careful not to break bolt. (A 10' pipe and three big dudes isn't a good idea!)

There are You Tube videos on how to free up a "frozen" engine. I'd try get to out or free it up in place before trying to build in the truck since your only trying to buy a month's time before other engine install.

Like bucket said,

If you are going to rebuild a 6.2 and install it at some point, you are going to need a hoist and stand anyway.

I get it times can be hard and most of us have been there but your headed for headaches trying to do it in the truck, IMO.


YMMV.

 

[73c20jim]

Did rings and bearings on a 1969 Corvette without pulling motor.

 

[Crispy]

A buddy of mine of mine changed main bearings in a P30 while in the truck once. I wouldnt wanna deal with it.

My suggestion is to get some harbor freight coupons and buy the cheaper 1 ton engine hoist and the 1000 lb engine stand. I've pulled LS motors, SBCs and jsut recently an Olds 403. I've had the 403 on the stand for a few months now.

These are invaluable tools in any shade tree's arsenal. Consider it an investment in your future lol.

Also, pulling the core support on these trucks is pretty painless so you can have the motor yanked and on the stand in short order. That will allow you to take your time and change other seals and gaskets.

You arent crazy for wanting to try it but I see some frustration and time consuming delays ahead of you if you go this route. Namely the crossmember.

 

[Vbb199]

Real hillbilly style:
Chainfall and a sturdy tree limb, push the truck under the limb, unbolt it, and yank her out with the chainfall

Barring of course there's a chainfall available

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[Vbb199]

Also what comes to mind, and it might Not work, but worth a try if it's not TOO BADLY stuck, a high tq starter, with the heads off, some of those low reduction starters for high comp engines are tough, but again, that's if it's available.

I wouldnt recommend doing engine work in frame NOW

But when I didn't have a place to work, or the tools to pull a motor, I might've considered it

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[Preston]

I’m doing it, got the heads off and the oil pan and spraying some Kano rust eliminator on all parts with rust let it set for a week and see if it will turn over.

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