Rear Leaf Center Pin and Clamps

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LateOnTheBrakes

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Does anyone have any info on the diameter, pitch, length of the center pin for the rear leaves? How about for the spring pack clamps? I'm looking for something I can buy locally at an auto parts store or 4 wheel parts. I am doing a shackle flip this weekend and removing a lift block. I would like to have the the center pin and clamps to replace the ones on the leaves.
 

77 K20

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I bought the center pins from a local hardware shop when I needed longer ones for my zero rate.

A 3/8" Allen bolt worked nicely.

ORD website for reference: Even if you don't buy from them you can learn a lot from them.
https://www.offroaddesign.com/leaf-spring-center-pins-pair-3-8-x-4.html

I'm not sure about spring clamps. Never had to buy one.

Enjoy the shackle flip instead of the blocks. :waytogo:
 

wanderinthru

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First center pin deal I was ever involved with, watched, Daddy put a drill in the vice, stuck a bolt in the drill chuck, got a file, and laid on the head till it was round enough to fit right.
 

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A standard grade 5 bolt will work.I like grade 8,just cause.The sole purpose is keeping the axle assembly from sliding on the leaf.

Fine thread would be a better choice with a small amount of blue thread locker.

A vice and a grinder works well.Small amounts and keep checking.Ad far as clamps,maybe you can find brackets at the hardware store and modify,or get old leaf springs from salvage yard and use clamps off those.I imagine you could us bolts there too.
 

LateOnTheBrakes

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I bought the center pins from a local hardware shop when I needed longer ones for my zero rate.

A 3/8" Allen bolt worked nicely.

ORD website for reference: Even if you don't buy from them you can learn a lot from them.
https://www.offroaddesign.com/leaf-spring-center-pins-pair-3-8-x-4.html

I'm not sure about spring clamps. Never had to buy one.

Enjoy the shackle flip instead of the blocks. :waytogo:

3/8" SHCS, 4" long. I'm guessing pitch doesn't matter if it comes with a nut.
 

BKING33

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I just use grade 8 bolt and grind down head. Use can use 2 large jaw panel vise grips to hold spring pack in place while removing pin. Spray it good with rust penetrate. They can be tight sometimes
 

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3/8" SHCS, 4" long. I'm guessing pitch doesn't matter if it comes with a nut.

The length will depend on how thick your spring pack is, or if you are bolting anything else to it (zero rate, add a leaf..).
Might want to check with a tape maeasure before heading out. You can always cut them down shorter later if needed.
 

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ORD has the top plate.
 

LateOnTheBrakes

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77 K20

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ORD has the top plate.

Actually PrairieDrifter reminded me of something- if you are doing a shackle flip your rear axle will be moved forward a bit. ORD makes a 1/4" thick plate that allows you to shift the axle forward or backward to re-center it.


And moving the axle forward will put the center pin in a different spot on your U-bolt top plate. You'd need to either drill out the stock top plate, or get a slotted top plate from ORD...

https://www.offroaddesign.com/axle-offset-plates-2-1-2-wide-1-4-thick-pair.html

https://www.offroaddesign.com/catal...ar-suspension-for-round-u-bolts/category/558/


You're going to need some new Ubolts also. They aren't threaded down far enough.
 

LateOnTheBrakes

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Yeah. I have the u bolts. I don't know much about the plate you are talking about. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but have never messed with leaf springs.
 

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From the ORD website:

Our new axle offset plates are an easy and inexpensive way to offset your front or rear leaf-sprung axle forward or back 1/2", 1" or 1-1/2" depending on how they're installed!
Basically they bolt into the bottom of the spring pack like any other leaf but allow you to offset the center pin and adjust axle location.
This can be useful to improve approach/departure angles, help with tire/fender clearance and they can also account for other things that have moved the axle (for example, to account for a shackle flip moving your rear axle forward).

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I just did the 2.5" shackle flip and you can see the rear axle was moved forward and was no longer centered in the wheel well. This bothered me. A 4" flip will move it farther forward.

The 1/4" axle plate will bolt into the spring pack at the very bottom of the spring pack. They give you a very short allen bolt you thread into the center hole. This will go into the hole in the spring perch in the axle. You then use whatever other hole you want to bolt into the spring pack with a new spring pack center pin bolt.

On the ORD website look at the zero rate block. They have instructions on it. It is the same as the axle relocation plate but is 1" thick instead of 1/4" thick.

https://www.offroaddesign.com/1-zero-rate-add-a-leaf-kit-2-1-2-wide.html

At the bottom under "product attachments"
 

LateOnTheBrakes

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I'm going from a 3" block to a 4" shackle flip. I'm sure it will have some adjusting that needs to be done. I'll worry about it when I get around to replacing the 1.25-ton springs with a lift kit from ORD.

Is the plate for moving the axle forward and backward or to rotate the axle and set the pinion angle.
 

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Here is a pic of my CUCV. I put the 4" ORD shackle flip kit on. I also removed the 1" spacer that was between the spring pack and over load spring. I put it below the spring pack as a lift block. It has 6" lift springs on front. I think my axle is still sitting pretty much centered.

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