Radiator replacement / repair ideas

[SirRobyn0]

Ok so here's the deal. My truck still has it's copper / brass radiator. I've been watching it since I got the truck 3 years ago. Based on a visual inspection when changing to coolant I would describe the internal passages as moderately clogged, but not enough to have problems even towing the trailer in hot weather with the A/C running unless pulling a long hill. So I've known that I'd need to do something one of these days. Well the other day I checked the coolant to find that it had lost about 1/2 a gallon since I'd last checked it. Long story short it's seeping from the driver side core down low. It really is just a seep and no fluid has been seen dripping yet.

So there is only one radiator shop left anywhere near me and I've not used them. So I called and was quoted $550 - $650 to re-core it, $400 - $500 to repair it, certainly more than I can afford for a radiator. Even keeping in mind the high cost of living here.

I figured I'd slap a spectra aluminum / plastic parts store unit in and hang on to the old brass unit, with the thought that I'd do something with it later on, but every flavor of parts store radiator I can find is out of stock. Even though my truck has the 305 I do tow and haul so I'd like a 4 row or equivalent larger tube radiator, I'd settle for 3 though which is what's in there.

I'm not a real fan of anything other than the original style copper / brass radiators. I'm ok with the aluminum / plastic but only if it's a good brand, the only real attraction there is the sub $150 price tag. I don't like it, but I'd be willing to go all aluminum, trouble is I have no idea what brands are good or bad. I do not want to go to an electric fan.

There it is got any ideas. I guess I should do an online salvage yard search.

 

[Memaloose]

My radiators in my 1972 Olds Ninety Eight and 1972 Olds Toronado hadn't been cleaned since new and the Toronado one leaked. In Kingman, there is only one radiator shop left and I had the guy clean, test and repair the radiators for $50 each. $500 sounds expensive to me but what do I know,.
I plan on pulling the radiator in my 1975 K/20 in the spring and have him do the same to it. It doesn't leak but does have mineral deposits inside. It's the original radiator.
The ones I had done are like new now.
Good luck!

 

[SirRobyn0]

There are some wrecking yard units that could be shipped in for less than $100, but I'm going to file that under not a first choice option. I'd be ok with used if I could inspect it first from someone i trust.

 

[SirRobyn0]

My radiators in my 1972 Olds Ninety Eight and 1972 Olds Toronado hadn't been cleaned since new and the Toronado one leaked. In Kingman, there is only one radiator shop left and I had the guy clean, test and repair the radiators for $50 each. $500 sounds expensive to me but what do I know,.
I plan on pulling the radiator in my 1975 K/20 in the spring and have him do the same to it. It doesn't leak but does have mineral deposits inside. It's the original radiator.
The ones I had done are like new now.
Good luck!

I completely agree $500 is way to much, certainly more than I can afford, but he has no competition either and apparently people in this area will pay it or he would not be in business. I'd love a $50 clean, test and repair!

 

[RecklessWOT]

I'd go all aluminum with welded tanks if my only other feasible option was a junk plastic tank aluminum radiator from a parts store (those things don't take long to start leaking IME), that's what I did on mine. I wanted to keep the factory one but it blew out completely partially from just needing to be repaired, but also what really finished it off was a bunch of pressure from exhaust getting in there with a bad head gasket, the thing just let go one day and I figured having it fixed was more trouble than it was worth.

I could be wrong but brand wise, I figure anything is better than a leaking radiator or a plastic tank radiator. I bought some no name 4 core aluminum radiator off Amazon for like $200 ± a few bucks iirc, seems nice and solid and appears to flow well, I may actually put a hotter thermostat in now, it is actually doing a little too good of a job cooling sometimes when it's cold out lol.

Thinking back though I probably should've gone with a 3 core, that's what came in the truck and aluminum is already better at dissipating heat than copper/brass so it would've still been an upgrade, probably a little cheaper, but also my main reason is that the 4 core is thicker than the original radiator so I had to get creative reattaching the factory fan shroud, and will need to revisit that soon as sometimes the fan will rub on the shroud if I'm running over a steep bank at a funny angle, anything that makes the frame flex. Fan doesn't come close to hitting the radiator, but it's just thick enough that putting the shroud back in the right place isn't as simple as bolting it back on, you'll need to put a little thought into making new brackets

 

[Octane]

Ive bought oem style radiators for my 77k10. for a little over a hundred dollars. I guess they still build them. The one in my truck has been in there a long time and it's worked fine. Probably made in China. If I find later a replacement like this isn't available I'll go with the all aluminum with a welded seams. Never a crappy aluminum plastic tank thing

 

[75gmck25]

Several years ago I installed a Champion aluminum radiator from Jegs to replace the original 3 row radiator in my K25 and it has worked great. It is an all aluminum, direct drop-in replacement for my original radiator.

I also have a high flow water pump, severe duty fan clutch, 195 degree high flow thermostat, and the stock metal fan and shroud, and my cooling is incredibly stable. I can let it idle in 90+ degree weather with the A/C on and it never gets above about 200 degrees.

 

[Camar068]

Ok so here's the deal. My truck still has it's copper / brass radiator. I've been watching it since I got the truck 3 years ago. Based on a visual inspection when changing to coolant I would describe the internal passages as moderately clogged, but not enough to have problems even towing the trailer in hot weather with the A/C running unless pulling a long hill. So I've known that I'd need to do something one of these days. Well the other day I checked the coolant to find that it had lost about 1/2 a gallon since I'd last checked it. Long story short it's seeping from the driver side core down low. It really is just a seep and no fluid has been seen dripping yet.

So there is only one radiator shop left anywhere near me and I've not used them. So I called and was quoted $550 - $650 to re-core it, $400 - $500 to repair it, certainly more than I can afford for a radiator. Even keeping in mind the high cost of living here.

I figured I'd slap a spectra aluminum / plastic parts store unit in and hang on to the old brass unit, with the thought that I'd do something with it later on, but every flavor of parts store radiator I can find is out of stock. Even though my truck has the 305 I do tow and haul so I'd like a 4 row or equivalent larger tube radiator, I'd settle for 3 though which is what's in there.

I'm not a real fan of anything other than the original style copper / brass radiators. I'm ok with the aluminum / plastic but only if it's a good brand, the only real attraction there is the sub $150 price tag. I don't like it, but I'd be willing to go all aluminum, trouble is I have no idea what brands are good or bad. I do not want to go to an electric fan.

There it is got any ideas. I guess I should do an online salvage yard search.

wow, the shop I have here flushed/cleaned/painted/repaired 2 spots/welded a port for the LS swap....all for $70.

 

[Camar068]

I don't like it, but I'd be willing to go all aluminum, trouble is I have no idea what brands are good or bad. I do not want to go to an electric fan.

I've seen complete aluminum radiators in the $300 area with electric fans. I'll see if I can dig it up....it was somewhere on FB square LS swap page. Maybe they have one w/o the fans.

[edit] turns out the $300 i mentioned above is fleabay. Nevermind on that. Someone did mention Griffin Thermal though. Summit carry's them. Link below.

Griffin radiators

 

[Grit dog]

My radiators in my 1972 Olds Ninety Eight and 1972 Olds Toronado hadn't been cleaned since new and the Toronado one leaked. In Kingman, there is only one radiator shop left and I had the guy clean, test and repair the radiators for $50 each. $500 sounds expensive to me but what do I know,.
I plan on pulling the radiator in my 1975 K/20 in the spring and have him do the same to it. It doesn't leak but does have mineral deposits inside. It's the original radiator.
The ones I had done are like new now.
Good luck!

Kingman AZ vs Seattle WA = a 180 degree difference in about everything, including prices, unfortunately.
I just paid $12 a pop for well drinks Fri night in Bellevue. That’s right $12/oz for friggin Jim Beam with a splash of Pepsi!

 

[Ken B]

I got an all aluminum from jegs

 

[SirRobyn0]

Just as a blanket statement I have no problem going all aluminum, however I've seen an awful lot of crappy ones to the point I really don't know what brands are good and bad. I just installed one in a 78 blazer at the shop the other day. The customer supplied the radiator, we had to modify the mounts a little bit and it sprung a leak on one of the welds while warming up. Now I've also installed some that went really well, so I know there are good ones made, I'm just a little Leary because I don't know the good brands that are reasonably priced.

@75gmck25 Thanks for the brand and time reference, I saw champion radiators as I was looking around last night. I'll put them on the serious to consider list.

@Octane Where did you get it from? And how many years ago? Factory brass radiators have not been available over the counter at parts stores for many years now. But there are reproduction units around for about $300 - $500 on the web. No idea on quality though.

@Camar068 Thanks for the info. Griffen is probably going to be out due to price. If I end up spending $300+ on a radiator I'll be looking at reproduction brass.

@Grit dog That's exactly why I don't drink out anymore at all. What do think the mark up is on that drink?

 

[Grit dog]

@SirRobyn0, it was a company Xmas party. Free drink tickets, but did buy a couple of them. Literally 2, $24.
Kraken games are $16 beers $12 I think for light beer.
Nothing to do with your rad, sorry off topic.

 

[SirRobyn0]

@75gmck25 Did you use your factory fan shroud and did you have to modify it? Thanks.

 

[SirRobyn0]

@SirRobyn0, it was a company Xmas party. Free drink tickets, but did buy a couple of them. Literally 2, $24.
Kraken games are $16 beers $12 I think for light beer.
Nothing to do with your rad, sorry off topic.

I don't mind. Prices are terrible here. I took a 200 mile drive for feed in the truck yesterday and fill both tanks near empty at $3.59 a gallon for a total of $110 bucks. This was at the Arlington Pilot, they typically have pretty good prices for fuel up north, so that's my stop when I go that way.