Radiator recore or buy new?

[45tt]

My 75 K15 recently developed a leak in its original 48yr old radiator. I started the search online and in my catalogs to find a replacement. All I have to say is things sure have changed since the last time I had to find a radiator for a Squarebody. I found a lot of plastic radiators and the ones I found that were metal were for automatics and had heater hose hookups on the radiator. I wasn’t able to find one for my year, measurements or for a manual trans. Plus they were all pricey and I couldn’t guarantee that they would even fit.

So I was thinking. when I was a kid/younger I remember going to radiator shops to get work done on my vehicles radiators because I couldn’t afford new. I did a search and I think I found one of the last radiator shops still operating in Florida (family owned and in operation in Daytona Beach since 1922). This place is definitely old school like what I remember as a kid. I took the radiator in and they said it looked in decent shape for original, however it was due for a recore. They were able to get a core made and they will go through it and rebuild everything to keep it as original as possible.

The cost was more than I had planned, but I’m glad that I’m able to retain the original equipment. I really didn’t want plastic or the wrong part. Its strange to me and I never thought I’d be in a position with a square to keep original parts because I couldn’t find suitable replacements but I think it worked out well.

 

[Midnightmoon]

I have been battling this very same issue for over a year now. Glad to hear that you were able to get yours done.

 

[Memaloose]

I just pulled the original radiator in my '75 K/20 with an automatic and took it in to get cleaned as I'm replacing hoses, thermostat and coolant.
Cave Radiator in Kingman, AZ is the only one left as well, it's been in the family since 1970.
Anyway, he told me I had a few minor leaks (which I already knew) and that he'd try to mend them but, if he couldn't, I would need a new one. Those cheep plastic chinese radiators are nothing but trouble in my opinion. Plastic = $125, brass/copper = $450. I don't have an extra $450 but I won't buy a plastic one. He said if I get the plastic/aluminum one, it should last for ten years at the most.

 

[45tt]

All Ready to install

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Terry Wilkerson]

I think you did the right thing.
I was able to find copper radiator at local shop here in KC for my 86. I think I paid $360 for it.. Also been in business for 40 years plus. I didn't want a plastic one either.

 

[DoubleDingo]

There is a radiator shop here, they can get any kind of new, and can recore original. I bought a new copper/brass unit. It was pricey, but well worth the money. @45tt Looks like they did a great job. I do plan to have my original radiator recored, that way I'll have a good replacement if the new one I bought ever goes bad. I don't see that happening, but you never know. The recore will go in the box the new one came in, and then get stored in the shed.

 

[Matt69olds]

Radiator repair shops have gone the way of full service gas stations. When I started driving 35 years ago, there were 5 radiator shops in my town. None remain today. I don’t know if there are any in other town around me.

All things being equal, aluminum is better. While copper has better heat transfer characteristics, aluminum is stronger, meaning the tubes can be made bigger. Bigger tubes, more surface area, better heat transfer.

The problem with aluminum is the cheap quality, unless you’re willing to pay for the top shelf stuff. That and aftermarket replacement radiators are made today so one part fits many applications.

My next door neighbor has a Suburban, the radiator split. He bought a replacement that had the heater hose fitting on the tank, his truck didn’t use it. The radiator came with a cheap rubber cap to block off that fitting. It lasted 3 months before it dry rotted and started leaking. We pulled the radiator back out, cleaned the nipple really well, I filled the nipple with JB weld, then put a replacement cap on it. Still going 2 years later!

 

[Octane]

Put a brass plug from the hardware in mine once at that spot. Lucky I guess to find the right size plug. My radiator so far has lasted about 22 years. For $109,it turned out to be a good one.Lifetime warranty, and I have the receipt still!

 

[Bextreme04]

I just pulled the original radiator in my '75 K/20 with an automatic and took it in to get cleaned as I'm replacing hoses, thermostat and coolant.
Cave Radiator in Kingman, AZ is the only one left as well, it's been in the family since 1970.
Anyway, he told me I had a few minor leaks (which I already knew) and that he'd try to mend them but, if he couldn't, I would need a new one. Those cheep plastic chinese radiators are nothing but trouble in my opinion. Plastic = $125, brass/copper = $450. I don't have an extra $450 but I won't buy a plastic one. He said if I get the plastic/aluminum one, it should last for ten years at the most.

My factory GM aluminum/plastic radiator is still going strong on my 2011 Suburban with 230k miles on it. Ditto the one that was on the 97 Suburban K2500 454/4L80 combo with 288,000 miles on it. In fact, I just took it out and swapped it over to my square in preparation of the engine/trans swap because the factory brass radiator was leaking and it was going to be $300-400 to fix it. I can get a replacement aluminum/plastic one for under $200.

The main problem is that the price of copper has shot through the roof and it is cheaper/easier to manufacture the aluminum ones anyways. Basically every vehicle I have except for the 67 Buick has an aluminum/plastic radiator, and the only one I've ever had fail was my 93 Honda. That failed because I was driving it with a blown head gasket for over 6 months and it was dumping oil/combustion gas into the coolant for most of that time.

 

[Matt69olds]

The plastic/aluminum radiator were kinda problematic when the first came out. Like most new technology, there are some learning curves. It didn’t take long for the OEM to figure out how to make them last.

My neighbor suburban has probably 225k on it, they are pretty reliable. Which kinda explains why radiator shops went out of business. Can’t make any money fixing what never breaks!!

 

[Octane]

I've seen many plastic radiators crack at 150k tho.But even that is a long time for plastic. As many also go a little longer. Mine has 200k,which is almost longer than any other I've had.I did have a 1990 S10 with 330k with a good original one. I bought the truck new and kept it flushed at 30k or every 2yrs.Very clean radiator

 

[Daron58]

I recently replaced the old radiator in my 75 c10 250 cid manual transmission, got it from eb/: and was able to fit with just a few minor adjustments but I was also replacing the radiator support so I had a little wiggle room but am satisfied with it and only put me out of about $180.00 , I also installed the brass plugs in all the heater hose and trans cooler inlet and outlets so good so far

 

[captianworkbench]

45tt, do you happen to have contact information for that shop in Daytona? I am also in CFL.

Thanks!

 

[45tt]

45tt, do you happen to have contact information for that shop in Daytona? I am also in CFL.

Thanks!

Robbins Radiator Works Inc.
386-253-4517
113 Taylor Ave
Daytona Beach

This place was awesome to deal with and recored my radiator in 4 days. Pricing really depends on what work you need done. I went for a complete tear apart recore like new job that cost a little more than I planned, but I’m glad I did it. I’ll probably never need to do it again considering the original lasted 48 years before it needed work.

 

[RanchWelder]

Radiator repair shops have gone the way of full service gas stations. When I started driving 35 years ago, there were 5 radiator shops in my town. None remain today. I don’t know if there are any in other town around me.

All things being equal, aluminum is better. While copper has better heat transfer characteristics, aluminum is stronger, meaning the tubes can be made bigger. Bigger tubes, more surface area, better heat transfer.

The problem with aluminum is the cheap quality, unless you’re willing to pay for the top shelf stuff. That and aftermarket replacement radiators are made today so one part fits many applications.

My next door neighbor has a Suburban, the radiator split. He bought a replacement that had the heater hose fitting on the tank, his truck didn’t use it. The radiator came with a cheap rubber cap to block off that fitting. It lasted 3 months before it dry rotted and started leaking. We pulled the radiator back out, cleaned the nipple really well, I filled the nipple with JB weld, then put a replacement cap on it. Still going 2 years later!

Had an old time repair shop tech in Ocoee, FL show me the difference between the plastic/aluminum versions.
He showed me the gauge of the fingers was critical to selecting an aftermarket crimp style aluminum.
Some are very thin and weaken and leak...
Some are very thick and well made..

The problem now is locating the specs on the plastic tank version and confirming the thickness on the crimps. Nobody wants to show you the details, just the price...