chengny
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2012
- Posts
- 4,084
- Reaction score
- 1,026
- Location
- NH
- First Name
- Jerry
- Truck Year
- 1986
- Truck Model
- K3500
- Engine Size
- 350/5.7
I was asking about dropping the oil pan over at the square body page on facebook, dropping the pan looks easy enough, but those guys said if I'm going to do the pan gasket, I should also do the rear main seal. that sounds a bit risky for a guy with my limited experience, one little slip trying to get the old seal out and I could gouge the crank, then I'd have all sorts of problems, so I'm going to think twice before I attempt that kind of repair.
Aw come on Stu - don't be a ***. No guts, no glory!
Get a Fel-Pro rear main seal kit # BS11829-1 and a Fel-Pro Permadry One Piece Oil Pan Gasket (if your dipstick is on the driver's side, be sure to get the right one)
Drain the oil, remove all the pan bolts and drop the pan.
Remove the oil pump bolt and pull the pump off the rear main cap.
Remove the rear main cap. Looks like this:
1
Roll the top half of the seal out of the housing - push up on one side with a screwdriver. The lower half will still be in the seal groove of the rear main bearing cap.
Clean up your oil pan rails and front seal groove with acetone/gasoline and a Scotchbrite pad.
Coat the lip seals with light motor oil - KEEP IT OFF THE MATING ENDS -
In your Felpro package you should find a small installation tool
This tool acts like a "shoehorn" to allow the seal to slide in its cavity without damaging it.
Be sure the lip seal is positioned towards the front of the engine
This seal CAN easily be installed backwards - all mating surfaces should be clean and free of oil
(NOTICE THE DESIGN: oil pressure is exerted against the lip forcing it to seal):
2
Position the tip of the tool between the crankshaft and the seal seat in cylinder case
position the seal between the crankshaft and the tip of the tool so the seal bead contacts the tip of the tool.
Use a 3/8 inch offset so the bearing cap parting line does not line up with the seal parting line
Roll the seal around crankshaft using the tool as a "shoehorn"
Push seal up in cylinder case an extra 3/8 inch - this offset will be on the bearing cap half of the seal as well
Install the other seal half in the bearing cap
Apply sealant ( High Temp RTV Silicone ) to the butt seams. Note- the image below does not show the 3/8" offset between the seal butts and the bearing cap seam:
Install the rear main cap and torque to specs.
Install the oil pump.
Install the oil pan using the Perma-dry gasket. Install this gasket dry - apply a tiny bit of silicone only in the corners - where the pan meets the front and rear seal housings.
Aw come on Stu - don't be a ***. No guts, no glory!
Get a Fel-Pro rear main seal kit # BS11829-1 and a Fel-Pro Permadry One Piece Oil Pan Gasket (if your dipstick is on the driver's side, be sure to get the right one)
Drain the oil, remove all the pan bolts and drop the pan.
Remove the oil pump bolt and pull the pump off the rear main cap.
Remove the rear main cap. Looks like this:
1
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Roll the top half of the seal out of the housing - push up on one side with a screwdriver. The lower half will still be in the seal groove of the rear main bearing cap.
Clean up your oil pan rails and front seal groove with acetone/gasoline and a Scotchbrite pad.
Coat the lip seals with light motor oil - KEEP IT OFF THE MATING ENDS -
In your Felpro package you should find a small installation tool
This tool acts like a "shoehorn" to allow the seal to slide in its cavity without damaging it.
Be sure the lip seal is positioned towards the front of the engine
This seal CAN easily be installed backwards - all mating surfaces should be clean and free of oil
(NOTICE THE DESIGN: oil pressure is exerted against the lip forcing it to seal):
2
You must be registered for see images attach
Position the tip of the tool between the crankshaft and the seal seat in cylinder case
position the seal between the crankshaft and the tip of the tool so the seal bead contacts the tip of the tool.
Use a 3/8 inch offset so the bearing cap parting line does not line up with the seal parting line
Roll the seal around crankshaft using the tool as a "shoehorn"
Push seal up in cylinder case an extra 3/8 inch - this offset will be on the bearing cap half of the seal as well
Install the other seal half in the bearing cap
Apply sealant ( High Temp RTV Silicone ) to the butt seams. Note- the image below does not show the 3/8" offset between the seal butts and the bearing cap seam:
You must be registered for see images attach
Install the rear main cap and torque to specs.
Install the oil pump.
Install the oil pan using the Perma-dry gasket. Install this gasket dry - apply a tiny bit of silicone only in the corners - where the pan meets the front and rear seal housings.