Question on Shaved doors and maybe other stuff.

[smullen]

Question 1. Who all has shaved doors or has had them?

While saving up for new Bed Panels and doors and looking at parts on LMC and other places, I see the fillers for Shaved Door handles, locks, bed stakes, tailgate handle relocators and other things.

I'm pretty sure I am going to go for this. Which brings me to yet another question on shaved doors.

I've seen tons of them in mags, shows and online but have never had a vehicle with them or done it.

So, My 2nd question is, For those that have you doors handles shaved, do you still have the actual door handles on the inside like factory, or is there button inside, on the door or console to release the latching mech, just like from outside?

Before anyone starts in, I get it, shaved doors are not practical, but Not much about this truck will be, in the daily driver sense or utility.

I have two other trucks (actually 3, ones another low rider) and a work van. This C10 is being done as a toy. Built for shows, cruising and hanging out, etc...
If its outta comision for a bit, to get work done or resolve an issue, its not the end of the world.

However, I'm already planning a backup system in case something happens to it. With it being lowered already and bagged eventually, the Bed floor will be raised high enough to cover the Bridge Notch, 4 link, Air tanks, Compressors and Extra Batt or two.
I if anyone reading this can visualize my day dreaming ideas, with the raised floor, when the tail gate is down, I plan on having a panel that goes across there, maybe 6-8" high. On that panel, I was going to recess a set of battery terminals like they do race cars and a Momentary Key Lock switch for the driver door or one for each door.
That way if the truck batt goes dead I can energise it enough to pop doors or air it up and if the remote goes bad, I can pop it by the key..

Nothings perfect, but I am trying to think ahead on this.

-Scott

 

[Terry Wilkerson]

I have a 50 ford shoebox chopped and shaved. I installed a bear claw latches with a remote fob. Kit came with 2 fobs. Each fob had 3 buttons on it one for each door and one for the trunk. I also installed a hidden manual release for the driver door ( dead battery ). On the inside I can manually open the doors or press a button. You will find when modifying original equipment one thing leads to another and another. I not saying not to do it but be prepared. I think it's cool.

 

[Terry Wilkerson]

Here is some info on the system. It cost 100.00 when I bought it a couple years ago. Second pic is the key fobs. They have a sliding cover to prevent accidental activation while in your pocket or elsewhere. Can't speak to reliability yet as car isn't quite finished, getting close.

 

[Terry Wilkerson]

After thinking about it I did have a problem with the system. The #3 button on both fobs for the trunk does not work. I operate the trunk with a wired button inside the gas filler door. I called the supplier and they would not cover it because I had bought over a year ago. Point is don't buy electronic parts till you are ready to install.

 

[Bennyt]

I've yet to meet someone with shaved handles that hasn't had some problems with them. Not saying they regret doing it but just know you'll probably run into some issues at some point.

On my '63 Nova, I shaved the trunk key latch and installed an electric one but can access it with a screwdriver through the back seat if it fails. I also shaved my locks, but left the handles which cleaned it up a lot.

Under the trunk I plan to install charging ports and a key switch in case my dor lock fob dies. Similar to your plan.

 

[GMT830]

You need to make sure that if you have an electrical (Battery) problem or lock the keys in the truck you can still actuate the doors and hood manually. Ive seen it done with bicycle brake cables in the engine compartment fished into the door but you still have to raise the hood on these trucks to make that work. I shaved the door handles on my 67 Cadillac and would not do it again. You might like these.

1946-48 Lincoln Style Door Buttons – Logic Industries LLC

logic80.com

 

[WesN]

I at one time bought a square that had the door handles deleted and a push button in the grill to pop the doors. AWEFUL if it was parked down hill the door would pop and then open fully maybe giving out door dings or if you were parked uphill it might pop open and then close on the first latch. Supper frustrating and was sold in short order. I have had comments on my current square that it has cool door handles that you have to push a button on them to open the door. In my case they will stay stock because they are cool.

 

[smullen]

So any answer to question 2????

Should be easy one for anyone that had shaved doors or has been in one.

I need to dig out my stack of mags and look for ones that are shaved, then peep out the interior, just thought this would be quicker.

Also, It does seem like it would still have them, I just over analyze stuff pretty often and want to make sure.

 

[Terry Wilkerson]

The answer is yes you can use your existing door handles on the inside. I don't think you can use the existing latches. There is some cutting welding, and fabrication needed. I bought the door popper kit separate from the latches. The operating rod may have to be modified.

 

[GMT830]

You can keep your factory latches and modify the angles of the solenoid pull with steel cable or a solid piece of wire. Watch some youtubes its not hard to figure out but today's solenoids are cheap and will fail over the long run. I've used heavy solenoid's out of mid 70's cars with power door locks they were the same as starter solenoids just had a different head on them. They can push or pull depending on how you wire them.

 

[Scott91370]

I had them, not on a square though. I never once had an issue with them.
Inside handles stay where they are. I added a button on the dash (your choice of where) so I could open the passenger side door without reaching across the truck.
My remote had 4 buttons:
Arm/Disarm
Open driver
Open Passenger
Open Tailgate

Biggest thing is to make sure the motors you buy are strong enough to pop the latch. If there is a lot of pressure when closing your doors they may not pop. You'd have to adjust the striker.
Hiding a button on the outside can be a good thing in case you 'misplace' your remote(s).

Only real downside is - if you truck battery dies you will be locked out unless you have a way to pop the hood.

 

[smullen]

I had them, not on a square though. I never once had an issue with them.
Inside handles stay where they are. I added a button on the dash (your choice of where) so I could open the passenger side door without reaching across the truck.
My remote had 4 buttons:
Arm/Disarm
Open driver
Open Passenger
Open Tailgate

Biggest thing is to make sure the motors you buy are strong enough to pop the latch. If there is a lot of pressure when closing your doors they may not pop. You'd have to adjust the striker.
Hiding a button on the outside can be a good thing in case you 'misplace' your remote(s).

Only real downside is - if you truck battery dies you will be locked out unless you have a way to pop the hood.

Any Idea what Poppers and Solenoids you used?

My thought is, IF, I do this, I plan on bagging it 1st. With that, the bed floor will be raised the height of a 8gallon tank with a pressure switch and gauge sender on the top port.
So when you fold the tailgate down, there would be a gap between where the floor should be and where the bottom of the new floor is. I want to do a panel across there to cover that, then recessed in a box/panel that maybe 6"w x 4H"x 3"D or so, and put a pair of battery terminals in there and a pair of Momentary Key locks, that if the battery goes dead or remote fails Either can be gotten around.

IF a Popper fails, I guess I'm breaking a window.

 

[Scott91370]

Any Idea what Poppers and Solenoids you used?

My thought is, IF, I do this, I plan on bagging it 1st. With that, the bed floor will be raised the height of a 8gallon tank with a pressure switch and gauge sender on the top port.
So when you fold the tailgate down, there would be a gap between where the floor should be and where the bottom of the new floor is. I want to do a panel across there to cover that, then recessed in a box/panel that maybe 6"w x 4H"x 3"D or so, and put a pair of battery terminals in there and a pair of Momentary Key locks, that if the battery goes dead or remote fails Either can be gotten around.

IF a Popper fails, I guess I'm breaking a window.

It's been so long ago I don't remember. But they don't fail that often - they're the same thing used for power locks. And if only one fails you'r ok because you can open the opposite door then get in and you can always open it form the inside.

 

[Ricko1966]

Man, I wish I could remember which states mvi regulations I was reading yesterday doing some research,anyway I think it was Michigan but they actually had stipulations about the cars having to have factory or factory style outside door handles. WOW who would have even thought someone would think of that regulation.