Question about headers

[MikeB]

Nothing easy as far as headers, they don’t fit, they leak, you end up end wrenching the plugs, interferes with starter access and a noisy passenger compartment to boot.

Nothing is easy for sure, but mine didn't leak and I had heat insulation on the floors. I also had a small gear reduction starter.

Mine were Patriot #8048 headers on an 82 C10 with a mild 355, meaning Ramjet cam and Vortec heads. The biggest problem was I had to re-route the fuel and brake lines on the passenger side to clear the #2 tube, which required removing the side motor mount. I also had to piece together some mandrel-bent sections of pipe to go up and over (and down and under) the asymmetrical trans cross member.

And that was a fairly easy installation compared to some I've done and read about. At least there was no frame interference, and spark plugs were all accessible, some with only a box end wrench, though. After all the work (and money), I didn't notice any seat-of-the-pants difference over cast iron manifolds with the same 2-1/4" exhaust pipes and DynoMax Super Turbo mufflers.

One more thing: When I rewired the engine, I had to remove the passenger side header to access the starter terminals. So, yes, it's always something!

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On my mild 355, these manifolds worked just as well as headers, according to my butt dyno. I forget the P/Ns, but I port-matched them to the raised ports on the Vortec heads. I did that with the Patriot headers, too.

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[Catbox]

Ball and socket outlets are superior to a flat flange. If you use a flat flange i have had good sealing success with copper gaskets. Might want to use bolts with springs to keep everything snug as well.

These adapters make a ball and socket joint easy peasy.

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[Finkaire]

Both look sweet, nice job!

 

[Finkaire]

Nothing is easy for sure, but mine didn't leak and I had heat insulation on the floors. I also had a small gear reduction starter.

Mine were Patriot #8048 headers on an 82 C10 with a mild 355, meaning Ramjet cam and Vortec heads. The biggest problem was I had to re-route the fuel and brake lines on the passenger side to clear the #2 tube, which required removing the side motor mount. I also had to piece together some mandrel-bent sections of pipe to go up and over (and down and under) the asymmetrical trans cross member.

And that was a fairly easy installation compared to some I've done and heard about. At least there was no frame interference, and spark plugs were all accessible, some with only a box end wrench, though. After all the work (and money), I didn't notice any seat-of-the-pants difference over cast iron manifolds with the same 2-1/4" exhaust pipes and DynoMax Super Turbo mufflers.

One more thing: When I rewired the engine, I had to remove the passenger side header to access the starter terminals. So, yes, it's always something!

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

On my mild 355, these manifolds worked just as well as headers, according to my butt dyno. I forget the P/Ns, but I port-matched them to the raised ports on the Vortec heads. I did that with the Patriot headers, too.

You must be registered for see images attach

Both look sweet!

 

[pali7]

You might want to consider ram horn exhaust manifolds. The reading I have done point to that they are pretty much the same flow as headers without the problems.

 

[Bennyt]

On my son's truck, I used the ceramic coated one's sold by summit. They had thick flanges, fit perfect, and installed very quickly in less than 15 minutes per side, not including the the collector connections on a new build. I used Fel-Pro gaskets and good bolts. I haven't run them yet so I can't attest to their quality and lasting ability but they seem to good so far.

I do agree with pali though that if you can find cast headers, you'd probably like them more. I was going to use Speedway's version but there was some reason why I didn't, maybe my serpentine drive?

 

[Old Guy Bill]

Back in my much younger days I used Schoenfeld headers, “Step” types,
1 5/8” at the primary then they step up to 1 3/4” 6-8” down stream.
It’s the best of both worlds.
Monte Carlo & Chevelle fit.
Now at my age, a nice set of cast iron manifolds suit me fine.
The Hooker models will be on the truck I’m building now.

 

[SquareRoot]

This a race truck? Headers suck big bald baboon balls! Avoid the headache and run good, modern manifolds. Hooker has em. You can thank me later.

 

[Lugnut]

What about replacing the exhaust manifold to get rid of the emission tubes? Any suggestions there? Also have a bone stock 350

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Hooker is making cast iron manifolds that look pretty good and are supposed to flow a lot better than the stock ones.

I haven't tried any yet but that is what I am leaning toward on my next engine swap.

 

[FabFive727]

My '78 C15 is bone stock with a 350. I'd like to get some headers for it, but I've never put headers on before. Is there a brand that is budget friendly that anyone would recommend? I don't want chrome headers. Would a used set be ok to use? On a half ton truck, is the starter something that I would have to change? Would I have to make changes to my plug wires? Finally, my truck has power steering, and I saw a video where that was a problem with trying to put on headers, so is there something that I would need to get to make it easier. I did do a search on here but couldn't find too many specific answers.

I have an 86 c10, I went with Sanderson. They are pricey, but worth every penny and designed for the ease of access to spark plugs and such.

 

[plumtruckerd]

I came across a set of used Hedman shorty headers that will bolt right up to the stock exhaust pipes. I would put them on but I'm afraid of breaking studs off in the head. I figured I'd just wait until I have to do something else and then do it. Thinking about a valve job or new heads in the future. Then it will be simple.

 

[MikeB]

I bought those Hooker cast iron manifolds for a 69 C10, but they interfered with the motor mounts, AC compressor bracket, and alternator brackets. But they had a lot less restriction than stock manifolds, along with 2.5" outlets. Nicely made and I wish I could have used them. They may fit a square body better due to the long water pump and the brackets moved forward.

 

[82BBC20]

Headers are a nice upgrade, but do buy ones with a 3/8 thick mount flange. I have them on my 82 C20 454, I ordered for direct fitment on my truck & they slide right in from underside with no issues. I also ordered better flange gaskets that I’ve had zero leaks from, also had muffler shop install v-band clamps on my collectors with zero leaks!

 

[Craig Nedrow]

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on a 454 in a 1973 K20. Been on 3 1/2 years, never touched them, no leaks. I run my truck hard, and in the hills. I did rejet the HOLLY 750 4150 Vac secondary. Runs like stink, sounds great, (hooker areo chamber muffs). I did wrap my old style starter. Used high heat paint but had to take the original paint off, that was the hardest thing about the whole job.

 

[SquareRoot]

Finally! A good use for headers.