problem getting 350 started

[Bextreme04]

I got the fuel pump today and installed it. Yes the lower pressure worked and it actually ran and idled which is a first. But...it was popping out the carb and when I put a timing light on it the mark on the balancer was here (approximately).

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Why didn't you adjust the timing when you saw it like that? That is a horrendous amount out of adjustment. It should be on the complete opposite side of the timing marks from there. I'm not surprised it is hard to start and running terrible with the timing like that.

Are the two black marks on the timing bar where you measured mechanical TDC? You should put a red mark on the Timing bar directly in between those black marks(That will denote mechanical 0 degrees of timing). Then loosen the distributor hold down and with the engine at idle, with the vacuum advance canister disconnected and the line plugged, move the distributor until the timing mark lines up with the upper black mark. That upper black mark is at around 8 deg advanced. Each one of those teeth equals around 4 degrees I believe.

Right now you are trying to run the motor at what looks like ~30 degrees retarded, which means the spark plugs are firing while the piston is already moving down the power stroke. It will not run well like this. Fix the timing first, then see what it sounds like.

I would also highly recommend a compression test and a leak down test(if it is still running like garbage once the timing isn't grossly out of whack)

 

[Bextreme04]

What is the status of the brown wire at that timing mark pictured?
That's around the spot it should be when the wire is connected...I only assume you are NOT using an advance light with a knob or buttons? That picture was with it plugged in, right?
Unplug it and take another picture.

Popping forces me to question the GROUNDS.
The plugs/wires/connections AT the distributor are good? Complete and clean?

-IF! you screwed around and DID NOT replace the in-tank ground wire with the pump, that's a headache waiting to happen and you'll get to go back and do it again.
-The ground wire to the framerail next to the #2 cylinder.
-The ground wire from the battery to the fender
-The ground wire from the driver side cylinder head to the firewall
-The ground wire from the fuel filler next to the frame

Your TBI distributor is NOT prone to "timing issues" and I remain unconvinced. Certainly not several days worth of timing issues..

No chance you are barking up the up the wrong tree?

What is the condition of the gasoline? Is it ancient ethanol or?
Maybe it would be best to STEP BACK and re-evaluate because this does not compute well and aint sittin right with me.

This isn't a TBi motor is it? Does the TBI motor really retard the timing to ATDC that much? In his pics and video it looks to me like he is running a crazy amount of timing retard, to the tune of about 20-30 degrees AFTER TDC, that will absolutely cause popping and poor running right?

 

[idahovette]

@Rusty Nail, seems you opened the door with the oil comment? Sorry to the OP if I screwed up your thead.

 

[curse]

@Rusty Nail, seems you opened the door with the oil comment? Sorry to the OP if I screwed up your thead.

I really don't mind at all

 

[curse]

Why didn't you adjust the timing when you saw it like that? That is a horrendous amount out of adjustment. It should be on the complete opposite side of the timing marks from there. I'm not surprised it is hard to start and running terrible with the timing like that.

Are the two black marks on the timing bar where you measured mechanical TDC? You should put a red mark on the Timing bar directly in between those black marks(That will denote mechanical 0 degrees of timing). Then loosen the distributor hold down and with the engine at idle, with the vacuum advance canister disconnected and the line plugged, move the distributor until the timing mark lines up with the upper black mark. That upper black mark is at around 8 deg advanced. Each one of those teeth equals around 4 degrees I believe.

Right now you are trying to run the motor at what looks like ~30 degrees retarded, which means the spark plugs are firing while the piston is already moving down the power stroke. It will not run well like this. Fix the timing first, then see what it sounds like.

I would also highly recommend a compression test and a leak down test(if it is still running like garbage once the timing isn't grossly out of whack)

I'm out of state and busy. I'll reply later.

 

[curse]

I think it's an even number. I pick cylinder 6

Correct on even number but #'s 2,4,6,8

 

[curse]

That's an exhaust valve not opening and it causes the backfire/pop up through the intake.

I'd say that's it

 

[Rusty Nail]

More info is necessary.

 

[curse]

I'm trying to get vid off phone so bear with me

 

[curse]

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I have no clue what happened here other than I got sidetracked and only did the drivers side.

 

[curse]

So yeah, 2,4,6,and 8 valves not operating like they are supposed to. The drivers side was good.

 

[curse]

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Sounds a lot better

 

[curse]

Oh yeah...I still had a high idle and the idle screw was all the way out. So I pushed the arm that throttle cable mounts to see if the idle would go lower. Something let loose and the idle dropped way down and I had to adjust the idle screw, something was bound up. Much better now

 

[bucket]

So what do you reckon is the cause for all the valves out of adjustment? I'm probably forgetting some details from earlier in the thread.

 

[mtnmankev]

So what do you reckon is the cause for all the valves out of adjustment? I'm probably forgetting some details from earlier in the thread.

It would not surprise me the space aliens were somehow involved, they have been working overtime here lately messing with me and my projects.