Pro Flo 4 with Delphi FE0114 or ACDelco EP381

[TommyGuns]

I'm running a Vortec 350 with a decent cam, about 360hp. I have 30lb/hr injectors at 43psi, running a Walbro pump (255 l/hr which is 67gal/hr). Not a Pro Flow 4 but a similar style setup. For me it is plenty, for you it is definitely adequate.

I'm definitely looking at Walbro, Aeromotive as well. I was leaning toward Delphi and AC Delco due to their history with GM, but my number one concern is reliability and drivability.

I did look around where I live and a Dyno / ECU tune is less expensive than I thought. I may end up making an appointment regardless.

 

[Frankenchevy]

Perhaps I'm confused. The injectors I have are 29 lb/hr, 58 PSI injectors. If I want to run 29 lb/hr at 43 PSI, wouldn't I need to change to injectors rated for 29 lb/hr at 43 PSI?

I'll give the tech line a call for sure once they open again.

No, that’s what I was getting at. Same 29lbs/hr injectors different fuel pressure regulator. The injector’s rating is separate from the fuel pressure regulator’s rating. In other words, you keep your 29lbs/hr injectors, but limit fuel pressure to 43psi and run the appropriate tune I highlighted in the screenshot above.

 

[Ricko1966]

I'm definitely looking at Walbro, Aeromotive as well. I was leaning toward Delphi and AC Delco due to their history with GM, but my number one concern is reliability and drivability.

I did look around where I live and a Dyno / ECU tune is less expensive than I thought. I may end up making an appointment regardless.

Just using the name delphi/Delco is no longer a qaurantee of a better part Delco now has 3 lines consumer grade,mid grade and dealer grade. Their cheap stuff is just the same offshore crap everyone else sells.The mid grade is meh. Dealer grade is supposed to be O.E. spec with life expectancy of 100,000 miles.

 

[Hunter79764]

Injectors are rated at a flow for a given pressure. Unless you go crazy extreme, any reasonable injector can run any reasonable pressure. Lowering the pressure into your 29lb/hr injectors will reduce the flow, giving longer injector cycles and I could see where the computer would have an easier time dialing in at idle with a lower pressure feeding the injectors. At your power level, there's not much risk of too low of a pressure at WOT, so not much risk by reducing the pressure. If you do not have a regulator built in (and it doesn't look like you do), then you need to purchase a regulator wither way. Just make sure to get one that can do 43 psi and you're set.
Also, to clarify something, fuel pumps don't make a set pressure either. They make max pressure when deadheaded, and make max flow when uncapped fully. Essentially anything other than a TBI pump will be able to handle the flow you need at 43 or 58 psi. Get an adjustable regulator and you can likely play with fuel pressure if you are having problems at idle or at WOT (Lower pressure will probably work better at idle, higher pressure will make better spray patterns, your actual mileage may vary).

 

[SquareRoot]

is this for a fuel injection vehicle?

Pro flo is EFI. Real EFI. So yes.

 

[SquareRoot]

I have seen several posts here where people used the Delphi FE0114 or ACDelco EP381 fuel pumps with the Pro Flo 4 system for a SBC. According to the Pro Flo 4 instructions the EFI system requires a minimum flow rate of 57 GPH. However, the FE0114 is rated at 32 GPH, and the EP381 is rated at 41 GPH; at least so far as I can find via Google.

For anyone who has a fuel system setup like this, have you had any issue with it? Are there other common fuel pumps I should consider instead?

Background:
I have a Pro Flo 4 installed on my truck's SBC 350 with Vortec heads. The kit came with 58 psi injectors as the only option for Vortec heads. I'm currently using Edelbrock's EFI Fuel Sump but I want to finish the conversion and reclaim space under the hood. I have new 20 gal '87 style EFI tanks. I am buying 1987 fuel senders, and had planned to buy two of either one of these pumps until I found this issue with fuel flow.

I have the exact same setup. 350, PF4, dual 20 gal tanks, two Delphi FE0114 pumps. I initially used the remote sump but got tired of it's issues. The pumps work fine, plenty of flow. Not sure why Edelbrock is sending them with 58# injectors. The 43# are more than enough for a street 350.

 

[TommyGuns]

I have the exact same setup. 350, PF4, dual 20 gal tanks, two Delphi FE0114 pumps. I initially used the remote sump but got tired of it's issues. The pumps work fine, plenty of flow. Not sure why Edelbrock is sending them with 58# injectors. The 43# are more than enough for a street 350.

This is the main reason why I am converting the fuel system now. The fuel sump.. It was great for getting the truck driving semi-reliably. But it would randomly shut off. The random shut off would be after driving for a while (30 - 45 mins) and immediately after I let off the throttle to coast following a mild acceleration.

I decided to go with the same Delphi senders and pumps you recently bought, and I'm waiting on a newer Pollak 6 port fuel selector valve. I have a couple questions:

• Did you use clamps on the tank selector valve fuel supply and return lines, or some kind of fitting? I'm considering using AN6 fittings to replace the steel barbs on the fuel senders but I'm not sure what to do with the plastic barbs on the valve body.

• Did you keep the short hard lines that go between the truck body and frame rail from the fuel sender to the tank selector valve?

 

[SquareRoot]

This is the main reason why I am converting the fuel system now. The fuel sump.. It was great for getting the truck driving semi-reliably. But it would randomly shut off. The random shut off would be after driving for a while (30 - 45 mins) and immediately after I let off the throttle to coast following a mild acceleration.

I decided to go with the same Delphi senders and pumps you recently bought, and I'm waiting on a newer Pollak 6 port fuel selector valve. I have a couple questions:

• Did you use clamps on the tank selector valve fuel supply and return lines, or some kind of fitting? I'm considering using AN6 fittings to replace the steel barbs on the fuel senders but I'm not sure what to do with the plastic barbs on the valve body.

• Did you keep the short hard lines that go between the truck body and frame rail from the fuel sender to the tank selector valve?

I had issues with under hood heat affecting the pump in the sump.
I retained the steel crossover lines for convenience but I wouldn't have an issue using hose for that short section.
Using AN fittings would be overkill and not worth the cost.
The main thing to do is using quality SAE30R10 EFI rated hose. Gates makes it and it's readily available. It's expensive, like $5/ft expensive but you need it. I also recommend FI style hose clamps, not the traditional worn gear hose clamps. The FI clamps retain their torque, clamp evenly and don't chew up the hose surface.
It takes some effort to get that hose on the barbs of the Pollack Valve. A little Vaseline and heat helps a lot. Make sure you leave a loop of hose coming off the sending unit so you have room to work with if you're not taking the bed off

 

[TommyGuns]

With some googling I came up with the attached wiring design. It looks good to me, but I'd appreciate a sanity check from y'all before I start wiring it up.

My goal is to retain my dual tanks without adding any more switches in the cab. Plus the wiring design is similar to the TBI dual tank design, but with the wire gauge to the tanks stepped up to handle 10 amps. Since I could not find any information on how much current the OEM style tank switch in the cab can carry, I used relays instead to switch power from the battery directly to the pumps and the valve.

EDIT: Deleted incorrect wiring diagram.

 

[TommyGuns]

Attached is a corrected wiring diagram. The previous one would short circuit whenever the left tank was selected. Circuit numbers, wire colors and gauges are all based on the 1983 truck wiring manual. Circuits 53R and 54R (relay) are a larger gauge of wire which must replace the wiring originally routed from the firewall to the fuel tank selector valve. I went with GXL wire for these upgraded circuits as Wire Barn does not offer HDT wire.. at all it seems. Pin identifiers on the tank selector valve connector are shown, but may not be accurate. Double check the actual pinout of your tank selector valve to ensure accuracy.

Theory of Operations:

Power Supply and Control:
The Pro-Flo 4 ECU module is capable of powering a fuel pump of up to 10 amps directly via it's Brown/White (-12v) and Orange (+12v) wire pair. Due to Edelbrock's circuit design however, the pump circuit is switched on and off using it's negative/ground lead. Since most in tank pumps are grounded at the tank, a relay is required to supply +12V power from the battery directly to the pump, with the relay being controlled by the ECU module. The bottom relay in the diagram is this On/Off control.

Switching Tanks and Fuel Pumps:
Above the Power Control relay are two more relays in the diagram, one for each tank. To avoid unnecessary wire crossings and make the diagram a bit easier to read, the top relay drives the Left Tank in the diagram, and the middle relay drives the Right Tank in the diagram.

The +12V power from the Power Control relay is connected to the Normally Open terminal (87) on both relays. The Normally Closed terminal (87a) on both relays are wired to ground. Coil Terminal (85) on both relays are also wired to ground. Coil Terminal (86) on both relays are wired to opposite sides of the tank selector switch in the cab. The tank selector switch receives +12V power from the driver footwell fuse panel and switches the polarity of circuit 53 (Light Green) and circuit 54 (Dark Green).

When a tank is selected in the cab, +12V power is sent from the tank selector switch to terminal 86 on that tank's relay (Middle or Top in the diagram). That relay's contactor closes, sending +12V from relay terminal 87, via terminal 30, out to the appropriate pin on the tank selector valve. Power to the fuel pump is supplied via a wire splice near the tank selector valve's weatherpack connector.

For the tank that is not selected, it's contactor remains open, and it's terminal 30 is connected to ground via terminal 87a, providing a -12V / ground connection for the tank selector valve via the non-selected tank's wire. The fuel pump connected to this -12V / ground wire remains off due to both of its leads being connected to ground.

Possible Failure Modes:
If the tank selector switch shorts out, the tank selector valve motor should remain in it's last position and both fuel pumps will run, drawing over 10A and blowing the fuse.

If the tank selector switch fails open, neither fuel tank relay will be energized. Neither fuel pump will receive power as a result. The tank selector valve will remain in it's last position.