Power Steering Gear Leak

[texasmike]

I'm about a year and a half into my restoration with the last 120 days spent at the body shop. The cab was the last piece to come off the chassis about a week ago. Yesterday, I made my weekly visit to the shop to pay for the weeks work and check the progress. The chassis has been washed, media blasted and coated with a black epoxy paint. While there, it was pointed out to me where the steering gear had just started leaking fluid where the steering gear stub shaft exits the unit for connection with the column. There was a noticeable puddle on the ground but the unit was not dripping at the time. I wiped everything clean and checked the fluid level in the pump and found it barely touching the stick. When I left about twenty minutes later, the area was still dry.
The truck has only 52k on it and drove and handled great when I took it to the shop. No slop in the steering and does not veer with hands off the wheel. Should I really be concerned with this right now? Maybe when everything is back together and the pump is running with warm fluid flowing under pressure, the leak will not be there or reappear. I certainly do not want fluid leaking all over my driveway and if a fix is required, now would be the time to do it. I'm not sure if just a seal or O ring could be replaced or if the whole unit would have to be refitted. If that's the case, it would probably be a rebuilt item and how reliable would that be? The tilt steering column had just been removed from the old cab and is ready to be installed in the new freshly painted cab which is now in place on the frame. Everything is on hold and waiting for my instructions on what to do. All opinions and advice are welcome. Thanks.

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[CorvairGeek]

Do it now. Mine started leaking badly with no warning or previous leakage at all. Put a new seal in years ago, box is still great.
It is just a lip seal on mine.

 

[Goldie Driver]

It would be a drive from Conroe, but Adco has been recommended by a buddy that had them do the gearbox in his 78 T/A after some real misadventures with reman crap.

This is who I will use someday when I get around to it...

http://www.adcopower.net

 

[texasmike]

I'm going to take a closer look and see if I can possibly replace just the seal for the shaft. It protrudes through an approx. 3/16" thick metal hexagon cover, about 4" in diameter, over the end of the gear box. It would take a HUGE wrench to unscrew that sucker! First, I'll have to find out if I can find the seal. As I remember, it seems this could all be done without removing the unit or even disconnecting any lines. Has anyone done this?

 

[chengny]

Never mind everything below- I thought you were talking about the Pitman shaft seals.


The Pitman shaft uses two seals. One is a single lip type (inner) and the other is a double lip type (outer).

The seals are sold as part of a kit. The kits are readily available from a number of vendors. You get the two seals, two washers and a retaining ring (circlip). The kit is not too expensive - like $20 -$30. Google GM P/N 7826470. Same part was used until at least 1986 (and possibly up to 1992). See the removal/installation procedures and a picture of a kit below:

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I'm sure you can do the job without the "special" tools mentioned above.

 

[chengny]

Maybe this could be of some help:

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[PrairieDrifter]

I just had this same problem, didn't leak but one day it just started, and no it won't stop on it's own. You can get a full reseal kit(might as well) or you can get an upper shaft seal kit. If the other aren't leaking just leave it alone, but it's nice having everything you need. It doesn't have to be removed from the truck.

The top "piston" pulls out from the top without having to remove anything else. I would recommend it but it's not "necessary", that you get the correct spanner wrench for the spanner nut, I got one off eBay, seems like an original tool still in its package.

 

[texasmike]

Thanks for all of the replies and help, guys. I plan to replace the input upper shaft seal. With the column assembly and both the inner and outer fenders removed, it shouldn't be too difficult. I'm getting anxious to get this baby bolted back together and back on the road after sitting outside on the dirt for 13 years!

 

[CorvairGeek]

I drilled a tiny hole in the metal of the lip seal, and threaded a screw into it. I was able to pull it our easily. Lots of fluid leaking out, so cleanup of any shavings was easy.