Poor Man Valve Job

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HotRodPC

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That sounds to me more like a valve cutting job. All I'm doing is going to use compound to clean the seat and face of the valve where it rides in the seat by using the cordless drill in all one motion, and I can also use reverse, then I'll do the back and forth motion with the lap tool by hand to finish it off. Compress the spring, new seal, keeper, release spring compressor and done. When I say POOR MAN, I mean POOR MAN. It'll work and still be 10x better than it was before. I'm not expecting much for a 219,000 mile short block and probably 120-150,000 mile heads with a lap job. As long as it runs good, doesn't foul plugs and uses no more than a quart of oil per 1000 miles, I'll consider it good. My other trucks with newer clean motors that get oil changes at 5000-10,000 miles, I'll use that oil in this pig to keep my oil expense down. :waytogo:
 

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When I was a kid we bought a 66 Falcon with a straight six. The head had been off for some reason. Helped my dad hand lap the valves. That motor lasted forever. It was my brothers first car for a couple years, my dad drove it for 10 or so years and then he sold it and they drove it for at least five years that I know of.

The last time I hand lapped something it was the throttle valve from a narrow gauge steam locomotive where it fit into the dry pipe. That was a heavy sum bitch, had to use both arms to lift it.
 

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You take care of that old girl!!! :Sumo: :slap:

Trust me, My used oil from my other 2 trucks is still dark gold when I change it. It's still good clean oil. But for an oil burner, I can't afford $3 a quart every 1000 miles. Hopefully it won't burn that much, but at 219,000 miles on the motor, I'd be happy if it's no more than that.
 

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When I was a kid we bought a 66 Falcon with a straight six. The head had been off for some reason. Helped my dad hand lap the valves. That motor lasted forever. It was my brothers first car for a couple years, my dad drove it for 10 or so years and then he sold it and they drove it for at least five years that I know of.

The last time I hand lapped something it was the throttle valve from a narrow gauge steam locomotive where it fit into the dry pipe. That was a heavy sum bitch, had to use both arms to lift it.

I expect this will turn out OK. The valve guides are still creating a pretty good vacuum when I pull the valve thru the guide. That tells me it's a pretty snug fit. So with new seals and cleaning the valve seats and seat faces, they valves should seat well and not be burning oil from the heads. But the rings I expect to be tired.
 

bucket

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Trust me, My used oil from my other 2 trucks is still dark gold when I change it. It's still good clean oil. But for an oil burner, I can't afford $3 a quart every 1000 miles. Hopefully it won't burn that much, but at 219,000 miles on the motor, I'd be happy if it's no more than that.

Try 3 bucks a quart every 50 miles or so, it gets spendy. I have been dumping in used oil from the tractors at work. It's surprising how quick one truck can eat through a 5 gallon bucket.
 

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Uhh NO. I won't drive it if it's that bad except to get it home from a recent sprung leak or something like that.
 

bucket

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Uhh NO. I won't drive it if it's that bad except to get it home from a recent sprung leak or something like that.

The problem is that I can never keep my wife out of the damn thing long enough to fix it. She's been forced out of it now though, as of a few days ago it no longer has enough power to safely drive it.
 

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good thread, you do valves exactly as I do.

I got a set of 305 heads tore down right now doing a valve job.

I use the same big c clamp type spring compressor, thena wire brush on either a bench grinder or drill, to clean the valves up and get carbon off them, then chuck em in a drill and use valve grinding compound same as you. That's the way I was taught to do em by old man and the same way we've done tons of heads.
 

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That sounds to me more like a valve cutting job. All I'm doing is going to use compound to clean the seat and face of the valve where it rides in the seat by using the cordless drill in all one motion, and I can also use reverse, then I'll do the back and forth motion with the lap tool by hand to finish it off. Compress the spring, new seal, keeper, release spring compressor and done. When I say POOR MAN, I mean POOR MAN. It'll work and still be 10x better than it was before. I'm not expecting much for a 219,000 mile short block and probably 120-150,000 mile heads with a lap job. As long as it runs good, doesn't foul plugs and uses no more than a quart of oil per 1000 miles, I'll consider it good. My other trucks with newer clean motors that get oil changes at 5000-10,000 miles, I'll use that oil in this pig to keep my oil expense down. :waytogo:

I would still consider lapping as cutting....polishing is just micro cutting. So yeah, anything for a better seal!
 

HotRodPC

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I would still consider lapping as cutting....polishing is just micro cutting. So yeah, anything for a better seal!

Yes, I was moreless just going cleaning up the seats a bit, and more than anything, new valve seals. Then I seen all this **** on the intake vavles. It's turned into a big hassle and I don't want to spend cash I don't have on having them cleaned. So, I guess I'll do the best I can with Purple Power, a wire brush wheel and put them back together and call it good.
 

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Yes, I was moreless just going cleaning up the seats a bit, and more than anything, new valve seals. Then I seen all this **** on the intake vavles. It's turned into a big hassle and I don't want to spend cash I don't have on having them cleaned. So, I guess I'll do the best I can with Purple Power, a wire brush wheel and put them back together and call it good.

Cleaning is cleaning...who gives a **** about the method, as long as it works. I stick **** in the oven, and put it on a 4 hour, 600* self cleaning cycle.
 

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Cleaning is cleaning...who gives a **** about the method, as long as it works. I stick **** in the oven, and put it on a 4 hour, 600* self cleaning cycle.

My daughter has been laughing at me cuz I've threatening to do it in this cold weather. Warm the house up and clean the oven and my heads all at once. I just don't want my fuggin $800 Self Clean Gas Range getting fugged up, cuz I won't be able to replace it.
 

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But for an oil burner, I can't afford $3 a quart every 1000 miles. Hopefully it won't burn that much, but at 219,000 miles on the motor, I'd be happy if it's no more than that.

When my dad passed away in 96, I got his 79 GMC Sierra Grande. My classmate's dad rebuilt the engine with 202 heads, flat top pistons, etc. He was proud of that engine rebuild. My dad liked to cruise around and drink beer on the back roads, and often lugged the motor. When I realized that the truck was a major oil burner, I started carrying a case of straight 40w. If I went on a trip I topped it off and about an hour into the drive the oil pressure would start to drop, and it needed another quart. So I would pull over, pour in the oil and take off again. Going down steep grades that required using what compression it had to hold it back was a tree-huggers nightmare. At first it would start spitting out smoke rings from the tailpipes. The tailpies exited behind the rear wheels. Once you got to flat enough ground that you could open it up, it would spew smoke for a good 1/2 mile or more. I ran into the guy that rebuilt the motor one day, and he asked how I liked that motor. I said it is a piece of crap. He got pissed off. I told him you may have built it up nicely, but percentage-wise it burns more oil than it does fuel. I finally stabbed a fresh crate motor and no more worries.
 

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My daughter has been laughing at me cuz I've threatening to do it in this cold weather. Warm the house up and clean the oven and my heads all at once. I just don't want my fuggin $800 Self Clean Gas Range getting fugged up, cuz I won't be able to replace it.

Wrap them in foil , no ..I've not tried it but it may work ! Probably won't do anything for the stink.....
 

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