aGood'olBoy
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How many plug welds should my ten bolt have? There's three on each tube
please help quickly
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You probably won't be able to tell if the tubes have spun by looking at it. Have to check the angle of the perches in relation to the pinion flange with an angle finder. Then compare with another axle.
I don't remember what it's supposed to be stock, but I think the pinion is only up a few degrees compared to the spring perches. I'm not at home, so I can't check.
I don't remember what it's supposed to be stock, but I think the pinion is only up a few degrees compared to the spring perches. I'm not at home, so I can't check.
aGood'olBoy
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My dad places his magnetic level on the fridge and i don't think its ever been used, but its broke because its constantly getting knocked off. So I can't put a level to it. I have no axle to compare it to either. But should i try to fix the angle with a jack or leave it seeing i can't get it welded today? If it spins back then that is the issue that i spun the center section. But you guys honestly believe i could of spun it with 200 horse at the flywheel?.. Wouldn't it more likely only spun one tube and not broke both of them at the same time? I've been driving with these vibrations for a little over 2 months. I would think that the tubes would have shifted or something from then up until now? I don't know if i mentioned it but i was peeling out and got some bad axle hop. Ever since then about 40 in 3rd gear and 35 in fourth have reallll bad vibrations and i can hear it i wanna say howling. The faster i go the more they go away but there still there. There's no vibrations when out of gear at any rpm. There are many possibilities for the vibrations but pretty much only one for the center section spinning up. I'd like to sell this pig so i can own something I'm not constantly afraid that it will break down. But it's hard when its not driving. I have so much invested in it, it's hard to keep pouring money in it.
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If only one tube had spun, i would think you would see it in the spring packs. Start with the cheap possibilities first. Flip the blocks. See where that points the pinion.
aGood'olBoy
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I'd like to if it will help. But I'm afraid there's a bigger issue than putting the blocks in ass backwards. Bucket said i believe that the blocks were installed correctly as in the rear being taller. So there should be no reason why the pinion is angled so high in relation to the driveshaft. It does not look like either tube is spun the plug welds are all perfectly fine and show no signs of being moved. I dont get it. Its possible i have a bent axle shaft even though that would explain the vibrations it wouldn't cause the pinion angle to be so high
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Yeah, looking at that picture again, the amount of degree in the blocks shouldn't have the pinion that elevated. I can't see any other way to achieve the alignment you have other than the center having spun on the tubes. Don't underestimate the destructive power of axle/wheel hop.
aGood'olBoy
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Should i try to bring it back down or drive it like it is then try to pull it down before i have a buddy try to weld it? I'd rather not get a new ten bolt as i have around 500 invested in this one. But they are cheap. Again i'm just not convinced its spun none of the plug welds are broke, the tubes look like they've been at the same angle for the last 30 years of their life. I'm no expert and i don't pretend to be but im not sure what to do.
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It may be time to take it to a shop that specializes in drivelines. Are there any shops in your area that deal with custom 4x4's? Someone who's dealt with twisted center sections and can either confirm or deny that's the problem. Have you happened to pull the diff cover lately? You mentioned a howling type noise, and I'm wondering how the insides look. You say you've got a good amount of money in your axle now, but if the gears and bearings are in trouble from the misalignment, it may be a lot cheaper and easier to source a new axle.
aGood'olBoy
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I have a locker in it and when i put the axle in probably 4, 5 months ago the internals on the pumpkin were mint. Obviously fresh fluid, axle bearings and seals. I'm afraid to drive it into the bigger city north of me to go to a 4wd shop. Each time i lost my driveshaft before i was close enough i could have it flat towed home. But i'm tight on money pretty much all the time because this pos keeps breaking on me.
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That's a rough spot to be in. Been there, done that. I guess the first thing I would do, is pull the diff cover and verify the axle internals are still in good shape. If they are, then I would take the axle out and try to get it to a shop that could tell me what the housing is doing. If the internals are lunched from being run at the weird angle, then there's no point in saving that axle housing.
aGood'olBoy
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I can pick up a ten bolt for 100. I doubt it hurt the locker. I'm just in doubt about biting the bullet and buying a new axle. Idk this kind of **** really sucks when moneys already so tight
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There you go, the center has spun. You didn't have a nasty vibration before this, so you obviously didn't have that horrible pinion angle before.
Don't take this the wrong way, but it's silly to complain about having to fix something when you abuse it. Spinning tires is rough on equipment and it often finds a vehicle's weak links. You gotta pay to play.
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Good ole boy- I hate to be the bearer of bad news but Bucket has hit the nail on the head. A truck is only as strong as its weakest link. When you crank one up, even with a 200 hp motor, the torque applied through the drivetrain is unbelievable. This really comes home on pavement. Chalk it up as a lesson learned and move on.
I would take that rearend out right away. It is no good the way it sets. I say pick up the 10 bolt and put it in before you damage the internals of the one you currently have in. That way you can reuse your locker in the future.That is the quickest and cheapest solution to your problem. Be prepared to replace u joints as well due to the severe angle. They have to be stressed out as well. This is what I would do. It is your call as to what you will do. Best of luck.
aGood'olBoy
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Yeahhh I know I know.. The driveshaft needs a new yoke welded on because it got so banged up. So I'll get a new u joint when that's done. This u joint is only a couple days old from the last time I lost my driveshaft. Can't thank all of you on this page for your help and patience!!
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I can't see any other way to achieve the alignment you have other than the center having spun on the tubes.
What about the joint formed by the axle tubes/perch mount radius?
Consider what would happen and those welds had failed. You know how sometimes a welded joint will crack but, the fracture is not visible to the naked eye - without dye checking or the application of an external stress (like prying on it with a crowbar).
If those welds failed, the only thing keeping the axle tubes in position relative to the springs/frame would be the clamping force of the u-bolts (and whatever resistance to rotation the shocks might provide). So, assuming the inner ends of the tubes were still securely welded to the differential housing - if a sudden, heavy load were applied (like described below):
I don't know if i mentioned it but i was peeling out and got some bad axle hop. Ever since then about 40 in 3rd gear and 35 in fourth have reallll bad vibrations and i can hear it i wanna say howling.
the resulting torque might be enough to cause the entire rear end assembly to rotate.
That's just something to consider.
Again i'm just not convinced its spun none of the plug welds are broke, the tubes look like they've been at the same angle for the last 30 years of their life.
It hasn't been noted yet, what type of axle we are discussing - at least I didn't see it. But, if it is a 14 bolt (it's probably a 10 bolt and I am not too familiar with those), you should be able to use the bolts that secure the brake assemblies to the square mounting plates at the outer ends of the axle as a reference.
I believe that the mounting plates are targeted for welding in such a position that, if an imaginary line was drawn through their centers and extended forward - it would run parallel to the axis of the pinion shaft.
I probably am not explaining myself well, here are a couple of visual aids to help:
And remember, the relationship shown above would remain like that, even with the installation of a lift kit using tapered blocks - or if the perch welds had failed. Because in either of those cases, the entire rear axle assembly would rotate as a single unit.
The only thing that would disturb the angle of the brake mounting bolts to the pinion center line would be if the axle tubes had spun inside the differential housing. In that case the square plates/bolts would be still held stationary by the perch/u-bolt assembly - and so would the axle tubes. But the differential/pinion shaft would be free to rotate in relation to the tubes.
What about the joint formed by the axle tubes/perch mount radius?
Consider what would happen and those welds had failed. You know how sometimes a welded joint will crack but, the fracture is not visible to the naked eye - without dye checking or the application of an external stress (like prying on it with a crowbar).
If those welds failed, the only thing keeping the axle tubes in position relative to the springs/frame would be the clamping force of the u-bolts (and whatever resistance to rotation the shocks might provide). So, assuming the inner ends of the tubes were still securely welded to the differential housing - if a sudden, heavy load were applied (like described below):
I don't know if i mentioned it but i was peeling out and got some bad axle hop. Ever since then about 40 in 3rd gear and 35 in fourth have reallll bad vibrations and i can hear it i wanna say howling.
the resulting torque might be enough to cause the entire rear end assembly to rotate.
That's just something to consider.
Again i'm just not convinced its spun none of the plug welds are broke, the tubes look like they've been at the same angle for the last 30 years of their life.
It hasn't been noted yet, what type of axle we are discussing - at least I didn't see it. But, if it is a 14 bolt (it's probably a 10 bolt and I am not too familiar with those), you should be able to use the bolts that secure the brake assemblies to the square mounting plates at the outer ends of the axle as a reference.
I believe that the mounting plates are targeted for welding in such a position that, if an imaginary line was drawn through their centers and extended forward - it would run parallel to the axis of the pinion shaft.
I probably am not explaining myself well, here are a couple of visual aids to help:
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And remember, the relationship shown above would remain like that, even with the installation of a lift kit using tapered blocks - or if the perch welds had failed. Because in either of those cases, the entire rear axle assembly would rotate as a single unit.
The only thing that would disturb the angle of the brake mounting bolts to the pinion center line would be if the axle tubes had spun inside the differential housing. In that case the square plates/bolts would be still held stationary by the perch/u-bolt assembly - and so would the axle tubes. But the differential/pinion shaft would be free to rotate in relation to the tubes.
