Picked up this tach cluster.. how difficult is install?

[NCTyphoonKid]

Picked up this tach gauge cluster for my 76 k5, how difficult will it be to hook up? I know I need to order the wiring harness for the tach but any other hiccups? Only difference I saw was this one had a amp gauge as mine is volts. I understand that the amp gauge isn’t compatible in a 76 but I should still be able to use the tach and fuel gauge correct?

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[bucket]

Maybe with the correct printed circuit or some creative rewiring.

...and your phone needs charged, lol.

 

[Mingoman]

Picked up this tach gauge cluster for my 76 k5, how difficult will it be to hook up? I know I need to order the wiring harness for the tach but any other hiccups? Only difference I saw was this one had a amp gauge as mine is volts. I understand that the amp gauge isn’t compatible in a 76 but I should still be able to use the tach and fuel gauge correct?

You must be registered for see images attach

http://73-87.com/7387garage/interior/factory tachometers.htm

Pretty good write up on tachs.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[NCTyphoonKid]

I found that write up after after noticing the difference. I’m going to try making it work. I’ll get another circuit board and swap some of my gauges around

 

[NCTyphoonKid]

I was thinking to atleast I have the correct housing now if I can’t get the gauges to work but I really think if I swap the amp gauge to volt gauge and change the circuit board it should work I would think

 

[chengny]

I was thinking to atleast I have the correct housing now if I can’t get the gauges to work but I really think if I swap the amp gauge to volt gauge and change the circuit board it should work I would think

I am reading this as saying: You are happy with losing the ammeter as long as you get the tach feature. So, you intend to discard the printed circuit that came with the cluster pictured above, buy a new one applicable to your 76 (with tach option) and install it in the early model cluster. When that is all done, you are going to pull the ammeter from the cluster and replace it with your current voltmeter.

Sounds like a plan. And, it doesn't look like the circuit board change is even necessary. See the attached dwgs. Note that the pre-76 boards are layed out (even with the tach option) exactly like the 76+ ones - and the harness pinouts are nearly identical. There are a few differences, but they can be ignored for the most part. Leaving the 75- board in place and plugging in your 76 harness:

1. Gas tank level - your 76 non-tach harness should include a jumper that connects the two 30 pins. So that won't be an issue. Just snip the lead that goes to the unused 30 pin - on the 73 with-tach board.

2. Grounding - the 73- boards were grounded by only one lead (150) while the 76+ boards used two. Disregard the dedicated voltmeter ground on the 76+ boards for now - it will be used to power the voltmeter.

3. Seat belt warning lamp - didn't exist in the olden days. Snip the WHT 237 lead on your harness.

4. Brake warning light - as with the gas tank sender leads, your 76 harness should have a jumper between the two 33 pins. Snip the unused one.

5. Ammeter to voltmeter - no changes required. The pins that supply the ammeter clips (105 & 106) in the 73 are in the same locations as the ones used to drive a 76+ voltmeter (39 & 150). Just switch the meters and that should be it.

Wiring diagrams for 76, 75 & 73 clusters are below. I attached the 73 because it is clearer than the 75 - and the wiring is identical. BTW, I wrote this pretty quickly - so be sure to check my work:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[NCTyphoonKid]

I am reading this as saying: You are happy with losing the ammeter as long as you get the tach feature. So, you intend to discard the printed circuit that came with the cluster pictured above, buy a new one applicable to your 76 (with tach option) and install it in the early model cluster. When that is all done, you are going to pull the ammeter from the cluster and replace it with your current voltmeter.

Sounds like a plan. And, it doesn't look like the circuit board change is even necessary. See the attached dwgs. Note that the pre-76 boards are layed out (even with the tach option) exactly like the 76+ ones - and the harness pinouts are nearly identical. There are a few differences, but they can be ignored for the most part. Leaving the 75- board in place and plugging in your 76 harness:

1. Gas tank level - your 76 non-tach harness should include a jumper that connects the two 30 pins. So that won't be an issue. Just snip the lead that goes to the unused 30 pin - on the 73 with-tach board.

2. Grounding - the 73- boards were grounded by only one lead (150) while the 76+ boards used two. Disregard the dedicated voltmeter ground on the 76+ boards for now - it will be used to power the ammeter.

3. Seat belt warning lamp - didn't exist in the olden days. Snip the WHT 237 lead on your harness.

4. Brake warning light - as with the gas tank sender leads, your 76 harness should have a jumper between the two 33 pins. Snip the unused one.

5. Ammeter to voltmeter - no changes required. The pins that supply the ammeter clips (105 & 106) in the 73 are in the same locations as the ones used to drive a 76+ voltmeter (39 & 150). Just switch the meters and that should be it.

Wiring diagrams for 76, 75 & 73 clusters are below. I attached the 73 because it is clearer than the 75 - and the wiring is identical. BTW, I wrote this pretty quickly - so be sure to check my work:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Thank you so much for the info and the drawings, I’m going to review the drawings once the cluster comes in. Can’t wait to have a full gauge cluster in my k5 it’s been overdue and it’s something I’ve wanted to do

 

[Kasey 1977 K10]

I wanted a tack but didn't wanted an easier way. I found this tach/fuel gauge combination that is as close to plug and play as you can get. Remove your old fuel gauge, drill a small hole in your cluster housing, feed the wire through, connect the wire to the distributor and plug in the new gauge where the fuel gauge was and done.

http://gmsports.com/content/new-tachometer-1973-1988-chevy-and-gmc-trucks

 

[Craig 85]

I wanted a tack but didn't wanted an easier way. I found this tach/fuel gauge combination that is as close to plug and play as you can get.
http://gmsports.com/content/new-tachometer-1973-1988-chevy-and-gmc-trucks

FYI, that's on undetermined back order because the guy that build them for GM Sports died.

 

[T-ROD]

I've thought about doing this, but I'd really really like it to be done inside of my K5, I'm getting one soon and I'm wanting to do the RPM tach and though about one of those where it has a fuel gauge under but the problem with that is that you lose the seat belt warning indicator and brake warning indicator lamp, and I kinda like to keep those as I'd still want complete originality in that also, just that I added the tach as an option, and I've also found a CD player that is the delco for a Caprice but I believe the mounting brackets may be different but the 1.5 din mounting and face is correct, they used them in full size cars until 93 and I believe some others until 95, but the tach is an awesome upgrade, I never knew for years they had them, I literally one day just said I wish they had made one of those and it was period correct, and I looked them up and come to find out they did, they had two styles, and it was a rare option on some, I needed the square Lettering as I'm wanting to put in my 91 k5 but I'll have to make it work as the 90-91 cluster is electro-speedo.

 

[Blue Ox]

LMC has tachs. Just buy one. If you can figure out how to make one work with a diesel pls let me know.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Kasey 1977 K10]

FYI, that's on undetermined back order because the guy that build them for GM Sports died.

The one I bought I ended up not installing since I did a holley sniper efi system so have a digital tach now. I have it up on craigslist right now but if anyone is interested I'm willing to sell it. It has never been installed but I did paint the needles silver but they could be painted back to orange.

 

[gmachinz]

You’ll also need to use your K5 speedo since that tach cluster looks to have come from a 2WD truck-it doesnt have the 4x4 indicator opening.

 

[da_raabi]

The one I bought I ended up not installing since I did a holley sniper efi system so have a digital tach now. I have it up on craigslist right now but if anyone is interested I'm willing to sell it. It has never been installed but I did paint the needles silver but they could be painted back to orange.

What year is it for? The older design with the blue line or the newer one?

 

[Kasey 1977 K10]

What year is it for? The older design with the blue line or the newer one?

I had to go check. It is the 73-87 font and looks just like

You must be registered for see images attach