Oil Pressure Wiring

[ceejay]

So on my 81, I just swapped in my 383. From factory, there are 2 different oil pressure units. One is a sender, and one is a switch. To my knowledge, the 2 prong unit down by the oil filter is just operating the choke heater. The bigger canister type up my the manifold is giving signal to the gauge on the cluster. To add to the madness, I installed a 3 prong oil pressure safety switch in when I installed my electric fuel pump. So now I have 3 different oil pressure switches/senders. Can I elimnate all this madness and just run the 3 prong unit? I was thinking about elimating the 2 prong, since I beileve it's only function is the choke heater and to give power to the choke, which I can run off of 12v switched ignition instead. I just need to figure out where to wire the wire that goes to the canister type behind the intake manifold so I can get a reading on the gauge. Hope this isn't too confusing.

 

[80BrownK10]

So do you have the oil pressure gauge on the dash? If you have it, you don't have the wire hanging back there for the sender?

 

[ceejay]

So do you have the oil pressure gauge on the dash? If you have it, you don't have the wire hanging back there for the sender?

Yeah I have the gauge on the dash. Worked fine before I swapped the motor. Now the wire is just sitting in the engine bay. I was hoping to wire it into the 3 prong oil pressure switch (the one I have wired up for the fuel pump)

 

[Dave M]

So on my 81, I just swapped in my 383. From factory, there are 2 different oil pressure units. One is a sender, and one is a switch. To my knowledge, the 2 prong unit down by the oil filter is just operating the choke heater. The bigger canister type up my the manifold is giving signal to the gauge on the cluster. To add to the madness, I installed a 3 prong oil pressure safety switch in when I installed my electric fuel pump. So now I have 3 different oil pressure switches/senders. Can I elimnate all this madness and just run the 3 prong unit? I was thinking about elimating the 2 prong, since I beileve it's only function is the choke heater and to give power to the choke, which I can run off of 12v switched ignition instead. I just need to figure out where to wire the wire that goes to the canister type behind the intake manifold so I can get a reading on the gauge. Hope this isn't too confusing.

The 2 prong switch will be the electric choke and the oil gauge signal is a dark blue wire. You can eliminate the fuel pump one, by fitting a relay that works off the tach signal. The PEEL CP30 relay (google to find something local) we use here activates the fuel pump for 3 seconds when you first turn on the IGN, (to prime the carb), the pump runs when the engine runs and shuts off if the engine stalls. I guess you could also wire the electric choke in parallel off the pump also.

 

[Dave M]

Yeah I have the gauge on the dash. Worked fine before I swapped the motor. Now the wire is just sitting in the engine bay. I was hoping to wire it into the 3 prong oil pressure switch (the one I have wired up for the fuel pump)

NOooo! that has to be wired to the dedicated sender.

 

[Matt69olds]

Leave the factory switches/senders alone, and power the fuel pump with one of these.

Fuel Pump Safety Switch | eBay

Turns on an electric fuel pump for 3 seconds on initial key-on. Monitors the tach signal - as long as there is a tach signal present, the pump is allowed to operate. This is an excellent add-on when upgrading a muscle car to an electric fuel pump.

www.ebay.com