Oil pressure gauge

[Jerry phillion]

are all orig dash gauges electrical or is the oil pressure gauge mechanical ? My PO has replaced my oil
Gauge with a mechanical one. He put the oil gauge in the spacE where a clock would go. I want to
Replace that gauge with a new orig one in the orig place. Any thing I should know before doing this?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Factory is electrical. You would need the sender and if not originally equipped you would need to fine the wiring. Just curious tho why remove a mechanical gauge?

 

[CSFJ]

Probably doesn't want hot oil piped into the cab, or to match the factory gauges?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Probably doesn't want hot oil piped into the cab, or to match the factory gauges?

Meh if you use the copper line you should be good not that plastic **** that's just asking for trouble. Lol

 

[74 Shortbed]

My 72 had a mechanical gauge from the factory and it came with copper line.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

My 72 had a mechanical gauge from the factory and it came with copper line.

That's what I thought the older stuff was mechanical. So much better and way more accurate.

 

[CSFJ]

When I was into import racing, we used an a/n bulkhead fitting to pass through the firewall and then braided stainless line to run to the gauge. Iirc, the mech gauges cost less which I'm sure was the driving force behind our use at the time.

 

[Jerry phillion]

Guys, I just want to restore dash to orig, beside I believe the
Mech gauge is not right. The orig gauge is still in dash. I don't
Know if it is any good or not. I will get new gauge, put in new
Brighter bulbs and repaint the surround.

Also, where is the sending unit located for orig gauge and what
color wire should l look for?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Guys, I just want to restore dash to orig, beside I believe the
Mech gauge is not right. The orig gauge is still in dash. I don't
Know if it is any good or not. I will get new gauge, put in new
Brighter bulbs and repaint the surround.

Also, where is the sending unit located for orig gauge and what
color wire should l look for?

Brown and behind the distributor. It was probably removed to install manual gauge. Find the brown wire. Turn the ignition on and ground the brown wire. If your gauge goes to zero it might be ok. And absence of ground will peg it.

 

[74 Shortbed]

That's what I thought the older stuff was mechanical. So much better and way more accurate.

Yes sir, got that right..

 

[74 Shortbed]

When I was into import racing, we used an a/n bulkhead fitting to pass through the firewall and then braided stainless line to run to the gauge. Iirc, the mech gauges cost less which I'm sure was the driving force behind our use at the time.

That is actually the best and safest way to do it, cost might of been part of it but I think reliability was the biggest factor, didn't have an electric sensor to take a **** on ya at 7500+r's and the gauge still read 80lbs when you really had only 10lbs...

 

[smoothandlow84]

Just make sure to use loctite 545 hydraulic sealant on the threads from the copper line to the back of the gauge. Nothing worse than an oil leak behind the dash, or even into the face of the gauge. Don't use teflon tape. I use loctite on all of my airline fittings for my air ride setup...no leaks..ever.

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[Honky Kong jr]

Just make sure to use loctite 545 hydraulic sealant on the threads from the copper line to the back of the gauge. Nothing worse than an oil leak behind the dash, or even into the face of the gauge. Don't use teflon tape. I use loctite on all of my airline fittings for my air ride setup...no leaks..ever.

You must be registered for see images attach

They use compression fittings?

 

[74 Shortbed]

They use compression fittings?

That's what was on my 72 both ends..

 

[smoothandlow84]

They use compression fittings?

No compression fittings on air ride, but this same thread sealant is far bettern than teflon, even when used on compression fittings. A small droo is all thats needed to seal the threads