oil pan

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Codey

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Hey guys sorry ive not been active been busy working. i was hoping to find the best way ti change a oil pan gasket for a 350 engine still in the truck. any advice or suggestions for me guys
 

HotRodPC

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I'd start with 7/16's and 1/2 inch sockets in 3/8 drive and have a 3in and 6in extension handy.
 

HotRodPC

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Just me but I would start by draining the oil. :)

Don't be a puzzy !!! A real man can do it without draining the oil and not even make a mess. :rofl:


So why can't someone chime in here? I'm surprised. I have a feeling OP is wanting to know if the motor needs to be lifted or not. I've not done an oil pan gasket in one of these trucks so I don't know for certain. I'd imagine if the motor mounts aren't soft and let the motor sink at all, there would be enough room just to get after it. Drop the back of the pan (sump) down first then you should have cleared the windage tray on the oil pump and have enough room at enough angle to slide it down and back to you toward the rear of the truck. :shrug:
 

chengny

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Here is the (Haynes) procedure for "in vehicle" removal of the oil pan - on 2WD trucks:

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chengny

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Chiltons version (basically the same):


See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4

1.Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the air cleaner assembly, as required. Remove the distributor cap, if necessary.

2.Raise the vehicle and support it safely. Be sure to support the vehicle of jackstands at a sufficient height to allow ground clearance with the entire length of the oil pan as it will have to be tilted almost vertically for removal.

3.Drain the engine oil, then remove the flywheel cover and the starter assembly.

Fig 1

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Fig 2

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4.On some vehicles equipped with V6 engine, remove the strut rods at the flywheel cover, as necessary.

5.On 4WD vehicles with automatic transmission, remove the strut rods at the engine mounts.

6.On vehicles equipped with gauges, remove the oil pressure line from the side of the engine block to avoid damage when raising the engine. If necessary, remove the oil filter.

CAUTION
Take extreme caution if the engine must be raised to remove the oil pan. Make sure the engine lift or hydraulic jack is firmly set. If at all possible, block the engine in this position using wooden blocks between the engine block or engine mounts and jackstands or the vehicle frame rail.

7.On most vehicles it will be necessary to raise the engine in order to gain clearance for oil pan removal. If necessary, carefully jack the engine slightly using a block of wood under the transmission tail Section or using a engine lift. If additional clearance is necessary, remove the engine mount through-bolts before raising the engine. Remove the oil pan retaining bolts.

Fig 3

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Fig 4

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8.Pivot the oil pan downward and the rear and carefully lower it from the engine.

9. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Use new gaskets or RTV sealant, as required. On the V6 engine torque the pan retaining bolts to 100 inch lbs. On the small block V8 engines torque the bolts to 100 inch lbs. and the nuts to 200 inch lbs. On some 350 engines so equipped, torque the oil pan baffle bolts to 26 ft. lbs. On the 454 V8 engine torque the pan to front cover to 70 in. lbs. and the pan to block to 135 inch lbs.
 

HotRodPC

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Thanks Jerry. I think that's pretty much the info he was looking for.
 

chevyk10

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If I pull an oil pain on an old engine and I'm going to keep running it I will at least check the bearings if not replace them. Not that hard to do with the pan off.


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Codey

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thanks guys i got it done today heres the fast version what i did.

i unhooked the battery removed the starter drained the oil unloosened the pan removed the passenger side motor mount lifted the engine using a pipe between the frame and exhaust and lifted the engine while my dad wiggled the oil pan to the side and pulled it out cleaned out the pan scarped the old gasket off the block and pan the put on a fel pro one piece gasket with rtv silecone on the half moon parts of the gasket used snap ups that came with the fel pro to hold the gasket and pan in place then tightened it up and put everything back in.

sorry if i missed anything and for the grammar.
 

HotRodPC

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Sounds like you did just fine. :waytogo: I've never got to use the 1 pc pan gaskets yet. I sure hope they're easier than the 4 pc. I've always said the 4pc was stupid.
 

chevyk10

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I love the one piece. I will never use anything else. No cork either


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Codey

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It was easy enough espicilly with the fel pro. only thing bad was getting the motor mount back in.

On a side note i found some wierd things in the pan. a liitle piece of a rock
a small washer


and this thing
 

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89Suburban

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Anybody agree to replace the oil pump while doing this procedure? Or leave it alone?

Good job OP.
 

HotRodPC

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I guess that would depend on how much sludge and **** I seen in the pan. If it was very gooky I might, but oil pumps generally don't wear out very easy. Think about it, they're full of oil and constantly lubed. Had I replaced the bearings and knowing I wasn't going to have a need to dive into the pan for a very very long time, then yeah I prolly would have put a new pump in just for GP to go along with the new bearings.
 

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