O2 Sensor

[Triv]

Put new headers on my '86 Silverado and they do not have a port for the O2 sensor. I believe this is what has been triggering my check engine light since it started when I made the switch. I trashed the sensor and the connection to the wiring harness has just been dangling ever since. Any way to stop this other than tapping into the new headers with a new O2 sensor?

 

[yevgenievich]

Put new headers on my '86 Silverado and they do not have a port for the O2 sensor. I believe this is what has been triggering my check engine light since it started when I made the switch. I trashed the sensor and the connection to the wiring harness has just been dangling ever since. Any way to stop this other than tapping into the new headers with a new O2 sensor?

with headers should install a heated O2 sensor.

 

[Snoots]

You could install a bung at the exhaust crossover and extend the O2 wires.
Go to the bone yard with a hacksaw and wire cutters and get the O2 sensor, the bung and connector with wires. A good welder can install it.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[Snoots]

with headers should install a heated O2 sensor.

OK, class is in session. Please enlighten me on needing a heated O2 sensor with headers.

 

[gpmorgan]

I bought a collector with the bung in it.

 

[yevgenievich]

OK, class is in session. Please enlighten me on needing a heated O2 sensor with headers.

Without heated O2 the ecm will stay in open loop longer or forever if the O2 sensor never gets hot enough to operating temp. Headers often move O2 sensor further out

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Without heated O2 the ecm will stay in open loop longer or forever if the O2 sensor never gets hot enough to operating temp. Headers often move O2 sensor further out

I think people are starting to negate this in practice, at least on this website. I thought the same, but a couple people who ran the one wire sensor with headers, and then switched to the three wire said that it didn't make any difference for them. They didn't have check engine lights before or after, and the truck didn't have any trouble getting into closed loop before. They said it ran exactly the same either way. The only logical thing that I can think of to bridge these two stances is maybe if the bung is on the collector it can heat up better, but it can't if you install it further down the line. I don't have any data to back either side up, or my hypothesis there, but the OP said he has an '86 truck. There shouldn't be an O2 sensor unless it's a CCC California truck, it's been converted to TBI, or it's an '87.

 

[74propu]

I have long tube headers on my 86 with a 95 big block . I had to put the o2 sensor in my passenger side collector . then had to put a heated o2 sensor in to get it out of open loop . with headers it is moved to far out and only have 1/2 the exhaust heat going over it . if you move it back to the x pipe it is even further from the engine and the heat .

 

[smoothandlow84]

OK, class is in session. Please enlighten me on needing a heated O2 sensor with headers.

Nothing...a heater o2 sensor is a waste of time. Some people have argued that it leans out the mixture....blah...blah. I drank that Kool-aid, bought and installed and wired in the heated o2 sensor......and it did absolutely NOTHING



No open loop, no check engine light and runs fine.

 

[74 Shortbed]

Nothing...a heater o2 sensor is a waste of time.

I can vouch for that, lol..

 

[yevgenievich]

If you do not have issue with open loop and no check engine code then there is no need for the heated o2 sensor. But if starting with not having one at all, it is a safer choice to buy a heated one vs finding out that in that particular application the single wire O2 is not good enough. In a lot of cases, installing a non heated O2 sensor far away in the collector of the long tube headers can cause problems

Nothing...a heater o2 sensor is a waste of time. Some people have argued that it leans out the mixture....blah...blah. I drank that Kool-aid, bought and installed and wired in the heated o2 sensor......and it did absolutely NOTHING



No open loop, no check engine light and runs fine.

 

[75gmck25]

Using a heated O2 sensor lets you install it just about anywhere in the pipe, since you don't have to worry about it getting hot enough to work properly. This is sometimes an advantage, but is not always needed.

I have a wideband digital AFR meter, with the heated sensor installed in the exhaust pipe that runs right under my foot, and it works very well. YMMV.

Bruce