NP208 Blind Bearing Not Comin Out

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scenic760

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I have dove into rebuilding my NP208 and I have it torn down with the exception of the two blind bearings, one in the case and the other in the shaft. I don't have a pilot bearing puller or blind bearing puller (I did ordered one off Amazon but it got lost apparently)

The case has been given me a rough time... I have pulled the rollers and fabricated a makeshift tool I thought for sure would do the trick, some 1/8" plate drilled for a 5/16" threaded rod and a 2" PVC channel to leverage on the case. I thought all was going as planned and then it popped free only to realize it broke the top of the race. I tried it again after heating up the case on the BBQ to about 400f thinking the race would either fall out or need a LITTLE coaxing and I snapped the other half of the race...at this point I think I'm Dremel bound (someone said to cut it in three parts and it will be easy t collapse?) but one other thing I saw was to weld a bead around the race and it would cool and pull it away from the case. Can you do this with a wire feed welder?

Would dry ice be of any benefit here?

Haven't tried the shaft yet but I'm guessing its going to be the same...?
 

scenic760

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Update: Watched a couple of youtube videos and decided to take a run at it myself...put a rag in the case to minimize splatter cleanup and after about 60 secs of welding a bead around the inside of the race, I used my handy dandy thread road/pvc sleeve puller and came right out!

The other blind bearing in the shaft jumped right out with the homejob puller, although I did have to grind down the puller piece to fit the smaller bearing.
 

scenic760

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1981
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Suburban K10
Engine Size
350
What no pics?

Haha,

I have been a little pre-occupied lately! Here you go...and you can make fun of welding inadequacies all you would like!
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scenic760

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SoCal
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Chris
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1981
Truck Model
Suburban K10
Engine Size
350
I did have another question as I'm putting this back together, I'm not really sure the brass synchro gear is in correctly. It has three little tabs on it that would seem to fit neatly into the synchro ring slots but a couple of diagrams I looked at show it tabs up and just kind of sitting there which doesn't make sense to me?!
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scenic760

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Posts
318
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206
Location
SoCal
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
Suburban K10
Engine Size
350
If anyone else is tying to rebuild their NP 208, this nomenclature diagram and parts list is the best one I have found as it's complete, labeled and references sizes and thicknesses on the thrust washers..

They have other exploded diagrams on other cases as well but I can't attest to their completeness or detail!

https://www.areds.com/wp-content/uploads/GM-Transfer-Case-CD-Web1.pdf
 

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