Normal operation of 4wd

[RacingTurtles]

The million dollar question:
What is the normal operation of the 4 x 4 lever? I feel like that lever is seized and I'm scared that I'll break it.
Or am I just not hitting it hard enough with my purse?


Alright, I'm getting my flame suit on since I know y'all are gonna call me a wimp.

1990 Suburban 350 tbi, 4x4, auto trans, Warn auto locking hubs. No clue on transfer case, no clue on if it's a 10 bolt, 14 bolt whatever rear axle.
The transfer case is caked in grime. I'm going to spend some time cleaning it up so I can atleast identify what the hell it is. Just from being parked I can see it's leaking out some gear oil ever so slightly.

I got this thing from basically a field in 2019, cleaned it up and got her running ok.
I have never used the 4 x 4. It stays in 2wd. I tried when I first got her and that lever was seized in there. I was genuinely scared I was going to break that lever.

I just finished doing a brake job (new rotors & pads) as well as taking EVERYTHING apart in terms of wheel bearings and the auto locking hubs.
Wheel bearings got Lucas red n tacky grease, auto hub assembly was soaked in auto trans fluid. Everything went back together cleaned & greased.
I haven't even bed in the brakes yet.

I swear I have seen a procedure in the owners manual on how to use the 4 x 4, but I'm scared that maybe I shouldn't because it needs either a rebuild or some service. I have pulled on the lever with 20 - 30 pounds of force and it has not budged.


Send help.

 

[mrghostwalker]

Not being a transfer case guy I would defer to someone who knowns better than I do- which is not at all. I would have my local repair shop take a look at it. They can at least tell you if it's seized before you make things worse.
I picked up my 83 K10/20 (K10 cab, K20 chassis and drive train) the automatic tranny would not shift out of low gear. My mechanic crawled over it and discovered that the bezel for the transfer case lever was mounted upside down. It turns out that it showed me in 4-high, when I was actually in 4-low.
D"oh!

 

[shiftpro]

Yeah get it cleaned up and look at the shift mechanism/lever first. I doubt you would have an NP205 but just saying that you can get a rock into the shifting parts and cause a jam. Other transfer cases can have just a cable. Maybe disconnect the cable or rod from the shift lever on the TC. Try moving this part on the TC by hand after it's disconnected.

 

[77 K20]

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Does it look like this? Especially I mean with the "window" to the left of the shift lever with the indicator of what mode you are in. I'd think that is what you would have for your year.

Should be easy to shift. In both my '86 GMC Jimmy and my dad's '87 K5 Blazer shifting it was super easy. But that was back in the 90s. You have 30 years more wear, tear, dirt, grease....

And in case you don't know- to get to neutral or 4L the lever has to move to the right first, then you can pull back. Kinda a safety thing someone doesn't just rip it straight back into neutral.

 

[skysurfer]

Should be the same as mine, 241C. It should shift if you come to a stop, leave the engine running but put the transmission in neutral. Select the 4x4 range you want, then put the trans in park and lock the hubs if not auto hubs. For auto hubs just drop the trans back in D and go.

 

[Kurnacopia]

Yeah get it cleaned up and look at the shift mechanism/lever first. I doubt you would have an NP205 but just saying that you can get a rock into the shifting parts and cause a jam. Other transfer cases can have just a cable. Maybe disconnect the cable or rod from the shift lever on the TC. Try moving this part on the TC by hand after it's disconnected.

I would bet money its an NP208 or even an NP241. Either way, its a aluminum body case with a chain. With my 78 Scottsdale, I have to be stopped and in neutral to shift into 4LO.

 

[Bextreme04]

Agreed, should be a 208 or 241... they should shift pretty easily. Mine is a 205 and I need to give it a good whack in either direction to get it to move the shifter. I have to shift it in park, trying to shift in gear or in neutral will grind some stuff, but the 205 is direct gears, not clutches and chain drive.

 

[bucket]

'89 will be a 241, the first year for it. It's a very simple linkage, there's not much to bind up. I've only had one 241, but they are similar to the previous 208. None of mine have been particularly hard to shift, usually a good, swift tug is all that's needed.

 

[SquareRoot]

Bigger purse?

 

[Frankenchevy]

Maybe the selector is getting bound up because the nylon bushings are shot.

 

[RacingTurtles]

I appreciate the responses guys.

You must be registered for see images attach

Does it look like this? Especially I mean with the "window" to the left of the shift lever with the indicator of what mode you are in. I'd think that is what you would have for your year.

Should be easy to shift.

That's exactly what it looks like.

Should be the same as mine, 241C. It should shift if you come to a stop, leave the engine running but put the transmission in neutral. Select the 4x4 range you want, then put the trans in park and lock the hubs if not auto hubs. For auto hubs just drop the trans back in D and go.

Maybe this is the key right here. I don't recall if I attempted it with the trans in park or neutral. Not entirely sure if it would matter. I will give this method a try and see how it goes.

 

[RacingTurtles]

I did try it again after work one day.
To get from 2H to 4H, I couldn't go straight back, I did have to slightly push it to the right.
Hopefully this thing actually works, but I'm not going to need it anytime soon.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[85K304SPD]

I suggest that you inspect and service the entire system. Make sure that the transfer case has enough of the correct type of fluid, maybe even drain it and put new Dexron type fluid. The linkage is pretty simple, make sure it is not bound up, etc. 2H to 4H can be shifted on the roll, but to get 4L you need to stop and shift trans into N. You may also check the locking hubs to make sure they are working correctly. Sometimes they dont disengage and make it hard to shift the T case. Make sure that you reverse for a few feet to disengage the auto hubs when you are done using 4H or 4L. I always do the same even on the manual lockers. It shouldn't shift hard if everything is lubed and working correctly. Just my opinion.

 

[skysurfer]

Make sure that you reverse for a few feet to disengage the auto hubs when you are done using 4H or 4L. I always do the same even on the manual lockers.

Nothing wrong with reversing manual hubs, but it's not required. I called Warn's tech line when I switched from auto hubs to manual and was told it's completely unnecessary.

 

[85K304SPD]

Nothing wrong with reversing manual hubs, but it's not required. I called Warn's tech line when I switched from auto hubs to manual and was told it's completely unnecessary.

I just do it "just to be sure" at the end of the day, after using 4wd. Thanks.