No start, no click, no nothing

[Gray87GMC]

I’ve gotten pretty good at diagnosing a truck that won’t start. Power, fuel, spark, etc...

But right now I’ve got nothing. Truck ran perfectly, today go to turn it on and I’ve got nothing. Lights work and battery is strong, but no click and no attempt to turnover. Just nothing...

Also, lights do not dim when turning the key. Sound like an ignition switch?

 

[Gray87GMC]

So I’m no longer thinking ignition switch. Decided to test wipers on a whim and have no power to wipers.

Headlights and interior lights work fine...

 

[78C10BigTen]

Not to sound like an ass but start simple.... did you check fuses?

 

[Gray87GMC]

Don’t worry about being an ass lol. Looked at the fuses and they all look ok. Jumped on the bumper just to see if something might wiggle back into place and sure enough the dash light blinked when tried to start again but then went back out

So no start, no dash lights, no wipers. Headlights and some lights work fine

 

[78C10BigTen]

So it seems maybe a loose ground?

 

[Gray87GMC]

So it seems maybe a loose ground?

Starting to wonder the same. Halfway recall a way to test this by using jumper cable between negative battery terminal and frame?

 

[78C10BigTen]

Starting to wonder the same. Halfway recall a way to test this by using jumper cable between negative battery terminal and frame?

Im not sure, never heard that one....

 

[foamypirate]

On an 87', a couple of things tie together at the junction block on the firewall for a power source. I'd check that and make sure it's tight. I'd also check the connections down on the starter, as that's the main source of power for the cab.

 

[Gray87GMC]

On an 87', a couple of things tie together at the junction block on the firewall for a power source. I'd check that and make sure it's tight. I'd also check the connections down on the starter, as that's the main source of power for the cab.

Checked all connections and they seem ok. My multimeter is dead so the only checking of fusible links I did were visual and pulling on them.

Electrical is far from my forte but I gotta get this thing going somehow

 

[smoothandlow84]

Sounds like a bad neutral safety switch.


Everyone overlooks this....

If starter checks out, battery checks out, good cable connections....it's more than likely a bad neautral safety switch. The switch is about $18 at your local Autozone. It is located on top of the steering column up underneath by where the column goes through the firewall. A bit of a warning, they can be a pain in the ass to replace. Go on Youtube for a better idea of where it is located and tips to replace it.

I had the exact same issue with everything that you stated...new battery, new cables, new starter, electrical connections checked out. No click ...nothing when the key was turned. Sometimes it would start fine, other times I ended up being towed back to my shop. Next day, truck would start fine. You may also try shifting from park to neutral to see it it will start...if it does...definately the switch.

 

[Gray87GMC]

Sounds like a bad neutral safety switch.


Everyone overlooks this....

If starter checks out, battery checks out, good cable connections....it's more than likely a bad neautral safety switch. The switch is about $18 at your local Autozone. It is located on top of the steering column up underneath by where the column goes through the firewall. A bit of a warning, they can be a pain in the ass to replace. Go on Youtube for a better idea of where it is located and tips to replace it.

I had the exact same issue with everything that you stated...new battery, new cables, new starter, electrical connections checked out. No click ...nothing when the key was turned. Sometimes it would start fine, other times I ended up being towed back to my shop. Next day, truck would start fine. You may also try shifting from park to neutral to see it it will start...if it does...definately the switch.

Would this affect the dash lights and wipers though?

 

[smoothandlow84]

Possibly as it too is an electrical switch. The switch mechanism itself is plastic with cheap metal contacts. Over time and with age, the contact wear out and the mechanism gets sloppy.

Regardless, tracing the power with a meter is the proper route. Ground connections are usually a good start...same thing ...age and time along with corrosion (rust) causes all sort of electrical gremlins to appear.

 

[Gray87GMC]

Possibly as it too is an electrical switch. The switch mechanism itself is plastic with cheap metal contacts. Over time and with age, the contact wear out and the mechanism gets sloppy.

Regardless, tracing the power with a meter is the proper route. Ground connections are usually a good start...same thing ...age and time along with corrosion (rust) causes all sort of electrical gremlins to appear.

I’ve been trying to find an online resource to help me locate all the ground locations but so far coming up short.

Guess it’s time to get friendly with my multimeter lol...

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Here you go.

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[foamypirate]

An 87' won't actually have a neutral safety switch. It still has the same looking switch body at the bottom of the column, but it's only for the ECM to know P/N and the reverse lights, no ignition wires. Not sure when they made the change, but I think it was around 84-85'. There are physical stops in the column that prevent you from turning the key unless it's in park or neutral.

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