New to me truck/ what should i go through and look at

[gotamotor74]

There she/he is!

Sometimes I say him, sometimes I say her

 

[Radiohead]

There she/he is!

Sometimes I say him, sometimes I say her

Shim?

 

[85K304SPD]

That is a tough looking truck.

 

[gotamotor74]

That is a tough looking truck.

You know it's a little big for my taste but I think it does it well!

 

[rich weyand]

Change the master cylinder, all four slave cylinders, and the rubber brake lines at all four wheels. If you can stop, any other reliability issue is less likely to be life-threatening, and most people don't change the slaves and the rubber wheel lines. Those suckers are likely 50 years old and an accident waiting to happen.

Second thing is maintenance of the NP203 and the 4WD. Change out the stock front hubs for Warn hubs with the LOCK/UNLOCK selector on them. Leave them unlocked except in winter or off-road. Remove the 4WD selector boot in the cab, and put a pan underneath. Soak the linkages down with cleaner spray and get all the accumulated crap off them. Then pour some 10W30 over them to re-oil them. The 4WD selector should be silky smooth.

With the NP203. A lot of people replace them. Unnecessary. It's a fine unit if you understand it. It is meant as a full-time unit, and it's oil distribution depends on that. Internally it has oil ways built into the inside of the case to oil the output shaft bearing. Since the unit is always running (in stock configuration), there is always oil thrown to oil the output shaft bearing.

You need to determine if the NP203 has been modified to be a part-time unit. With the Warn hubs unlocked and the NP203 in 2WD, have someone pull the truck forward slowly while you watch the front driveshaft from alongside. Is the front drive shaft turning in 2WD? If it is, the NP203 is stock. If it's not, it's been modified in a very common (and desirable) way.

If the NP203 is modified, and you drive around all the time in 2WD with the hubs unlocked, the internals of the NP203 are not turning, and there is no thrown oil to feed the ways and oil the rear output shaft bearing. You will burn out the rear output shaft bearing. The way to avoid this is to shift the truck into 4WD every time you start out. With the hubs unlocked, you won't actually be in 4WD, but you will be spinning the NP203 and oiling the output shaft bearing. After a few miles, shift out of 4WD, which you can do on the run. You can't shift INTO 4WD while moving, but shifting OUT of 4WD while moving is not a problem.

 

[Matt69olds]

Look the truck over throughly, especially the suspension, brakes and electrical components. Check the belts and hoses. Keep an eye on the fluids for the first few weeks. Let the inspection and driving tell you what to fix first. Replace anything that is worn or damaged.

Personally, I wouldn’t replace what isn’t defective. The “might as well” will eat you alive. The beauty of these trucks is their durability and simplicity. They will take a beating, and when something breaks it’s usually easy to repair.

Enjoy the truck!

 

[gotamotor74]

Change the master cylinder, all four slave cylinders, and the rubber brake lines at all four wheels. If you can stop, any other reliability issue is less likely to be life-threatening, and most people don't change the slaves and the rubber wheel lines. Those suckers are likely 50 years old and an accident waiting to happen.

Second thing is maintenance of the NP203 and the 4WD. Change out the stock front hubs for Warn hubs with the LOCK/UNLOCK selector on them. Leave them unlocked except in winter or off-road. Remove the 4WD selector boot in the cab, and put a pan underneath. Soak the linkages down with cleaner spray and get all the accumulated crap off them. Then pour some 10W30 over them to re-oil them. The 4WD selector should be silky smooth.

With the NP203. A lot of people replace them. Unnecessary. It's a fine unit if you understand it. It is meant as a full-time unit, and it's oil distribution depends on that. Internally it has oil ways built into the inside of the case to oil the output shaft bearing. Since the unit is always running (in stock configuration), there is always oil thrown to oil the output shaft bearing.

You need to determine if the NP203 has been modified to be a part-time unit. With the Warn hubs unlocked and the NP203 in 2WD, have someone pull the truck forward slowly while you watch the front driveshaft from alongside. Is the front drive shaft turning in 2WD? If it is, the NP203 is stock. If it's not, it's been modified in a very common (and desirable) way.

If the NP203 is modified, and you drive around all the time in 2WD with the hubs unlocked, the internals of the NP203 are not turning, and there is no thrown oil to feed the ways and oil the rear output shaft bearing. You will burn out the rear output shaft bearing. The way to avoid this is to shift the truck into 4WD every time you start out. With the hubs unlocked, you won't actually be in 4WD, but you will be spinning the NP203 and oiling the output shaft bearing. After a few miles, shift out of 4WD, which you can do on the run. You can't shift INTO 4WD while moving, but shifting OUT of 4WD while moving is not a problem.

Okay so you sound like a guy to talk to about the NP203.... So I don't believe it's been converted or anything done to it, I haven't done the roll forward and watch the driveshaft thing. But there are no locking hubs on the front... just a solid cap. When you say 2WD do you mean just 4HI? My understanding is the shift patten is 4Low lock- 4low-Neutral- 4HI-4Hi lock. Or would it become 2WD with the lockers and modification to the part time, 4HI become 2WD? Don't quite understand that... What's the advantage of making the case part time? With normal driving and some moderate farm/off road use, isn't that what the stock unit was intended for?
I will do the remove the boot thing and take a look and try the oil thing you mentioned, because I do have a new boot for the selector so that should be good.
Also what are the slave cylinders you mentioned? Sorry... novice.

 

[Radiohead]

Also what are the slave cylinders you mentioned? Sorry... novice.

Slave cylinders refers to the hydraulics at the wheels for the brake system. The master cylinder is activated by your feet.

Ask anything! That is what we do around here.

 

[gotamotor74]

Slave cylinders refers to the hydraulics at the wheels for the brake system. The master cylinder is activated by your feet.

Ask anything! That is what we do around here.

Hmmmm okay got it

 

[idahovette]

Some people call them wheel cylinders .....same diff

 

[SquareBear]

We need pics Tyler!

AGREE!
Photos are a Must!!

 

[Dezzracer]

Replace all seals on all driveline components including main seal when you have the transmission out. Guarantee everything is leaking. From your comments sounds like you have your work cut out for you. Lol