New member intro and questions

[mrgoodwrench]

Im looking to stick with steel but thanks for the size info.

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[mrgoodwrench]

Im kind of thinking thease any idea if they will work?

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/brw-997798045

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[Rusty Nail]

Ewwww @ Dodge truck wheel!

 

[Chevroletman]

Hello glad to be here. I'm sure I can find some knowledge here, and might be able to give a little.
Just got my second SB. 1982 K10 Scottsdale short bed, all original, been setting over 20 years in a barn. It runs and drive good. Needs tires it has 22 year old Michelins on it and dry rotted bad.
Here's a quick question, what color was the 1982 305 in a K10.

 

[Craig 85]

Hello glad to be here. I'm sure I can find some knowledge here, and might be able to give a little.
Just got my second SB. 1982 K10 Scottsdale short bed, all original, been setting over 20 years in a barn. It runs and drive good. Needs tires it has 22 year old Michelins on it and dry rotted bad.
Here's a quick question, what color was the 1982 305 in a K10.

Pretty sure blue.

 

[vkh]

Hello glad to be here. I'm sure I can find some knowledge here, and might be able to give a little.
Just got my second SB. 1982 K10 Scottsdale short bed, all original, been setting over 20 years in a barn. It runs and drive good. Needs tires it has 22 year old Michelins on it and dry rotted bad.
Here's a quick question, what color was the 1982 305 in a K10.

My 81 is blue, most places just call it "chevy blue". I feel quite confident saying yours would have been blue.

 

[theblindchicken]

Nice lookin rig there @mrgoodwrench!

Suspension wise it sounds as though you don't really need to do anything for it.

Blocks are alright, just not necessarily the preferred way of lifting a truck.

Sounds like you've got a set of 2" lift springs + a 4" lift block. If you are planning on a shackle flip, you can keep the 2" lift springs and run a 4" shackle flip with their shorter HD shackle. Same thing I'm running on my truck with factory springs.

Blocks are just that, blocks. Technically, they don't increase or decrease the spring rate or change the ride quality. All they do is add space between the spring pack and the spring mounts on the axle. What they do negatively is that the larger the block, the larger the distance, which means that axle wrap and torque on the center pin is increased. Too much axle wrap as well as poor ubolts, and you can spit the blocks right out of there.

Shackle flips maintain the smoother leaf spring rate of a smaller lift pack while allowing the shackle to actually flex and allowing you to swap out shackle lengths to change the lift height. Shackle flips will typically ride smoother than any all-spring lift of the same size.

Factory setup:
Longer shackle = lowering truck
Shorter shackle = lifting truck
ORD Shackle Flip:
Longer shackle = lifting
Shorter = lowering

The factory shackles and bushings have teeth built into them that helps bind it up to increase the weight rating, but makes for a harsher ride.

Go for the greaseable bolts as well, they make a world of difference with the suspension actually moving instead of binding anywhere.

Also, the shackle flip has a tendency to move the axle forward or backwards about an inch... I don't remember which. May or may not cause issues with contacting your rear fenders. If it's an issue, you can run a set of zero rates since they have offset holes to accommodate the change in axle position.

 

[mrgoodwrench]

Nice lookin rig there @mrgoodwrench!

Suspension wise it sounds as though you don't really need to do anything for it.

Blocks are alright, just not necessarily the preferred way of lifting a truck.

Sounds like you've got a set of 2" lift springs + a 4" lift block. If you are planning on a shackle flip, you can keep the 2" lift springs and run a 4" shackle flip with their shorter HD shackle. Same thing I'm running on my truck with factory springs.

Blocks are just that, blocks. Technically, they don't increase or decrease the spring rate or change the ride quality. All they do is add space between the spring pack and the spring mounts on the axle. What they do negatively is that the larger the block, the larger the distance, which means that axle wrap and torque on the center pin is increased. Too much axle wrap as well as poor ubolts, and you can spit the blocks right out of there.

Shackle flips maintain the smoother leaf spring rate of a smaller lift pack while allowing the shackle to actually flex and allowing you to swap out shackle lengths to change the lift height. Shackle flips will typically ride smoother than any all-spring lift of the same size.

Factory setup:
Longer shackle = lowering truck
Shorter shackle = lifting truck
ORD Shackle Flip:
Longer shackle = lifting
Shorter = lowering

The factory shackles and bushings have teeth built into them that helps bind it up to increase the weight rating, but makes for a harsher ride.

Go for the greaseable bolts as well, they make a world of difference with the suspension actually moving instead of binding anywhere.

Also, the shackle flip has a tendency to move the axle forward or backwards about an inch... I don't remember which. May or may not cause issues with contacting your rear fenders. If it's an issue, you can run a set of zero rates since they have offset holes to accommodate the change in axle position.

My taptalk does not always update me right away so i did not see this untill juat now. Thanks for the reaponse i was thinking the same i juat ordered the ord 4in shackel flip with there hd 4.5 in shackels it should net me 4.25in of lift and my blocks are 4.5 best i can measure. Got the greasable rear bushing kit. Also ordered the zero rates to fix any forward or back movement and give me 1 extra inch to help make up for having the rear all loaded up with gear all the time. Also ordered there extended stainless brake lines the ones on my truck are short right now.

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[mrgoodwrench]

Also ordered up 5 of thease rims so i can get rid of the spacers the po installed and ill finally have the lug nuts all the way on. Already **** fit 1 and its a good fit i like the look , the load rating (3650lbs) they are made in usa and the price was good $95 shipped each from summit and i had a $20 off coupon so that will be nice. Should have the other 4 in a week or so. Then i get to mount those heavy monsters

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[theblindchicken]

Sounds good!

The shackle flip is a bit of a pain to install since it requires cutting the original rivets off and installing the shackle flip with grade 8 bolts (supplied).

An angle grinder or air chisel will work wonders in getting rid of those rivets. Will probably still need to pound out the rivets as well.

Its all like putting legos together. Just stick em together in the right order and you've got yourself all good to go.

I dont remember if a new center pin is supplied with the zero rates. If you have to go get a new one, Napa Auto usually has a few on hand that work perfectly.

Kragen and Autozone don't usually have any in stock.

 

[mrgoodwrench]

Sounds good!

The shackle flip is a bit of a pain to install since it requires cutting the original rivets off and installing the shackle flip with grade 8 bolts (supplied).

An angle grinder or air chisel will work wonders in getting rid of those rivets. Will probably still need to pound out the rivets as well.

Its all like putting legos together. Just stick em together in the right order and you've got yourself all good to go.

I dont remember if a new center pin is supplied with the zero rates. If you have to go get a new one, Napa Auto usually has a few on hand that work perfectly.

Kragen and Autozone don't usually have any in stock.

Im a mechanic by trade so i have a good air hammer, grinder , and oxy acetlyne torch on hand so it should not be too bad. Thanks for the heads up on where to get a new center pin im hoping they come with the zero rate they are shown in the pictures of the zero rates on there site. My other wonder is if i will need to shim the rear to correct drive line angles but i guess ill have to get it together loosely and see. If i do need to shim i hope parts stores have them available id hate to have to order them online and wait. I need to get my hands on a drive line angle gague of some kind.

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[mrgoodwrench]

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/brw-997798045

This is the rim link i ment to post a couple post ago. Lol

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[theblindchicken]

Sounds like you're all set. Rims look nice too.

I'd bet the zero rates come with em, but just incase, ya know?

I didnt have any issues with the yoke angle in the rear, but I need to shim the front pretty good.

 

[mrgoodwrench]

Sounds like you're all set. Rims look nice too.

I'd bet the zero rates come with em, but just incase, ya know?

I didnt have any issues with the yoke angle in the rear, but I need to shim the front pretty good.

My front has a doubble u joint on the rear shaft uoke so i think its going to be good. And im leaving that alone the lift up there is all good for now i just wanted to get the blocks out of the rear. And glad to hear you did not need to shim the rear im crossing my fingers that i wont but we will see because i have the shackle flip and the 2 in of spring lift that is already there aswell.

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[theblindchicken]

My front has a doubble u joint on the rear shaft uoke so i think its going to be good. And im leaving that alone the lift up there is all good for now i just wanted to get the blocks out of the rear. And glad to hear you did not need to shim the rear im crossing my fingers that i wont but we will see because i have the shackle flip and the 2 in of spring lift that is already there aswell.

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You'll be sitting higher than me though.

I'm only around 4-5" of lift and i need to shim the front axle even with the double cardan driveshaft. Pretty good vibrations at highway speeds, very little on the streets.

Similar setups, but that extra inch or teo may set ya a little different than mine.