- Joined
- Jan 11, 2022
- Posts
- 59
- Reaction score
- 110
- Location
- San Jose, CA
- First Name
- Rob
- Truck Year
- 1976
- Truck Model
- K20
- Engine Size
- 400
Greetings all,
Good to be here. Earlier this year, I purchased a 1976 K20 after a long search for one with a VIN combination I was looking for, and one that was a good candidate for restoration. Man, it was sure an ugly turd when it arrived, but I've spent the last 6 months getting rid of all of the ugly that was done to it. Here is a summary of the build so far:
Had the frame sand blasted and I've painted using Eastwood products. Turned out nice. Before sandblasting, I had to grind away a bunch of crap the previous owner(s) had creatively welded. Thankfully, nothing a sawsall and grinder couldn't fix and make disappear.
I had both the front and rear axles gone through and it was good I did. Again, some previous owner had hacked up the front axle splines and those needed replacement. The rest of the hardware was in good shape. Just replaced bearings, seals, and rebuild the brakes.
I purchased a 2" lift suspension kit from Tuff Country. No blocks. 4 new springs, shocks, rubber, etc.. Nice kit.
Had the power steering box rebuilt and ready to go back in. Someone had converted the brakes to hydroboost, which I really like, so I'm leaving that in. Just got it rebuilt and bought a new disc/drum master, correct for a '76 K20.
The truck VIN said it had a 400 small block, but a previous owner had dropped in a crate 350. I sold that and was lucky enough to find a correct 1976 400 out of a K20 in Central California. Never rebuilt, the thing was like new. What a find. I got that rebuild, but I did fix a few of the factory deficiencies. Since I'm in California, I have to pass smog, so everything (just about) that I've changed are CARB compliant, including the AFR heads, new intake manifold, Edelbrock Carb, and headers (yes, with the AIR tubes). I also put in a roller cam, but it is mild and the specs closely match a CARB compliant version of a flat tappet version. Since the truck has the heavy duty emissions, it has the EVAP, Smog Pump/AIR tubes, and PVC valve. No CATS or EGR valve. I picked up an HEI from FAST. i'll use the factory air cleaner, of course. Front accessories are all factory, except I've converted from factory air to Vintage Air. I know factory is better, but for me, the time to piece it back together just wasn't going to happen. I've been happy with Vintage Air in my classic cars.
For the transmission, I've ditched the TH350 and am replacing it with a 700R4 from GearStar (Level3). I'm not going to tow anything heavy and I'm not rock crawling. It'll be just fine. I'll have to have the drive shaft lengths changed, move the trans/t-case mount back 2", and "stretch" the 4x4 shift rods. No big deal.
I'll be painting it the two-tone green and white, original colors. Interior will be the original Jade Green. I've got the Dakota Digital Retro gage set that looks factory. Other than that, interior is all factory.
I'll post some updates as the build progresses. I have most everything described above. Now I just need to start the assembly process. I look forward to learning more about your trucks/builds.
-Rob
Good to be here. Earlier this year, I purchased a 1976 K20 after a long search for one with a VIN combination I was looking for, and one that was a good candidate for restoration. Man, it was sure an ugly turd when it arrived, but I've spent the last 6 months getting rid of all of the ugly that was done to it. Here is a summary of the build so far:
Had the frame sand blasted and I've painted using Eastwood products. Turned out nice. Before sandblasting, I had to grind away a bunch of crap the previous owner(s) had creatively welded. Thankfully, nothing a sawsall and grinder couldn't fix and make disappear.
I had both the front and rear axles gone through and it was good I did. Again, some previous owner had hacked up the front axle splines and those needed replacement. The rest of the hardware was in good shape. Just replaced bearings, seals, and rebuild the brakes.
I purchased a 2" lift suspension kit from Tuff Country. No blocks. 4 new springs, shocks, rubber, etc.. Nice kit.
Had the power steering box rebuilt and ready to go back in. Someone had converted the brakes to hydroboost, which I really like, so I'm leaving that in. Just got it rebuilt and bought a new disc/drum master, correct for a '76 K20.
The truck VIN said it had a 400 small block, but a previous owner had dropped in a crate 350. I sold that and was lucky enough to find a correct 1976 400 out of a K20 in Central California. Never rebuilt, the thing was like new. What a find. I got that rebuild, but I did fix a few of the factory deficiencies. Since I'm in California, I have to pass smog, so everything (just about) that I've changed are CARB compliant, including the AFR heads, new intake manifold, Edelbrock Carb, and headers (yes, with the AIR tubes). I also put in a roller cam, but it is mild and the specs closely match a CARB compliant version of a flat tappet version. Since the truck has the heavy duty emissions, it has the EVAP, Smog Pump/AIR tubes, and PVC valve. No CATS or EGR valve. I picked up an HEI from FAST. i'll use the factory air cleaner, of course. Front accessories are all factory, except I've converted from factory air to Vintage Air. I know factory is better, but for me, the time to piece it back together just wasn't going to happen. I've been happy with Vintage Air in my classic cars.
For the transmission, I've ditched the TH350 and am replacing it with a 700R4 from GearStar (Level3). I'm not going to tow anything heavy and I'm not rock crawling. It'll be just fine. I'll have to have the drive shaft lengths changed, move the trans/t-case mount back 2", and "stretch" the 4x4 shift rods. No big deal.
I'll be painting it the two-tone green and white, original colors. Interior will be the original Jade Green. I've got the Dakota Digital Retro gage set that looks factory. Other than that, interior is all factory.
I'll post some updates as the build progresses. I have most everything described above. Now I just need to start the assembly process. I look forward to learning more about your trucks/builds.
-Rob
