New '83 P30 Food Truck

[Jims86]

spot on...i was just looking at the earlier pics had posted with the carb off...looks like all 4 are missing.

 

[Vic Cardenas]

the vac switch is the one in the thermostat housing. and, innyour first egrbpic, it looked like there was a larger diameter tube close up...maybe a 5/8 tube...that would be the one for the air cleaner. move that pcv valve to the drivers side, and plug the front hole on the pass side valve cover. it really looks like that engine was a transplant from a TBI donor truck.

Ok, so you are saying the one I painted orange below... hooks up to the red tube or the green nipple? Or, the tube in the 3rd pic below that's on the snout?

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Whoa! Vic, stop everything you are doing.I just noticed...it does not look like you have any of the mid bolts in your intake manifold.....this MAY cause a vacuum leak. These would be the intake to head bolts directly under the carb on both sides.

Good eye! Yeah you're right, all 4 are missing. Don't know what the PO was thinking. :/ If you think it's serious than I guess it's JY time for me. But it deosn't seem to have a leak.

 

[Jims86]

Ok, so you are saying the one I painted orange below... hooks up to the red tube or the green nipple? Or, the tube in the 3rd pic below that's on the snout?

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Good eye! Yeah you're right, all 4 are missing. Don't know what the PO was thinking. :/ If you think it's serious than I guess it's JY time for me. But it deosn't seem to have a leak.

Ok, the orange on is the heat riser for the choke, one end goesnto that blocked port on thennew carb(once it is unblocked) and the other end goes to the port on the top rear of the carb...where the old carb had the tube with the shiney bolt.

The flapper door line goes to the green nipple, unsure where the red one goes.
Thegr pic i was referring to, is the other one, where the lower right corner of the pic is dominated bybthe end of a large hose, which i was thinking may have been the breather line from the valve cover, to the air cleaner breather element.

Going through vac diagrams right now. Stand by.
As far as the manifold bolts, no JY, you just need to hog out those center holes with a drill. Those center bolts go in at a more pirpendicular angle, almost straight up and down, and not the angle that the 8 corner bolts do. anybody have a link to that wedge washer kit for the center bolts?

 

[HotRodPC]

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I should've just ordered this little guy from the get go. Stupid me.

Lemme Lube those butterfiles for ya !!!

 

[Jims86]

Ok, Vic, I was wrong about the green nipple, that secondary vacuum brake on the pass side of the carb(the one i said to swap over) is what is hooked to the green nipple. thenred goes to the temp sensor(bi-metal) on the bottom of the air cleaner, then from there, to the flapper door.
here is what i have...its the simplest one I could find, but it looks like gm used the sam vac routings from 80-83 then changed/added some in 84.

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If you dont have to pass emissions, i would say that you can disregard half of the crap in this diagram.

 

[Vic Cardenas]

Thanks Jim. I'll try and get this sorted out.
I do have to pass emissions but they don't check to see if stuff is hooked up. I just need to pass a sniffer.

 

[Jims86]

Cool, Thats the way Cali should be, But, we have Liberal law makers that know nothing about automobiles making laws in Sacramento.

 

[Vic Cardenas]

Ok, so I'm about to buy that TVS switch but need a bit more advice. The part I pulled off is one for a distributor it seems. It's marked with #14031351. The info I see is that they have different TVS' for distributor, EGR, and EFE. It opens at 140-160. Can I replace this with the same part, or equivalent part that opens at 140, and use it for the EGR? If not, are the EGR TVS's the same threading as this one so I can put it in the same spot?

 

[Jims86]

Ok, so I'm about to buy that TVS switch but need a bit more advice. The part I pulled off is one for a distributor it seems. It's marked with #14031351. The info I see is that they have different TVS' for distributor, EGR, and EFE. It opens at 140-160. Can I replace this with the same part, or equivalent part that opens at 140, and use it for the EGR? If not, are the EGR TVS's the same threading as this one so I can put it in the same spot?

Since you dont have a visual inspection, I would just run the distributor line directly from the carburetor to the dist... you can also do away with the EFE, as your engine should be warmed up by the time you get to the inspection station.
I dont see why you couldnt use the one that opens at 140.
At this point, i would only work on the EGR, All the other stuff is only for the warm up phase.

 

[Vic Cardenas]

Yeah, that's what I'm doing. Focusing on the EGR only and plugging up or re-routing anything else if it's not already hooked up. I've got the distributer hooked up to the carb already. I'll order that part and hook the EGR to it. Thanks!!!

 

[Vic Cardenas]

BTW... the truck looks a bit different now...

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[crazy4offroad]

Looks great!

 

[Irishman999]

Lovin the Genuie pig logo, hopefully Ramrodpc can move all this over to a build thread for you instead of all this cool content being in your introduction thread.

 

[Jims86]

Have you fired her up yet? just plug the vac port for the egr until the new TVS comes in. Found and liked on FB, BTW.

 

[Vic Cardenas]

Thanks guys. I did fire it up with the new carb once. It ran ok. It didn't have much connected at that point and still did fine. Thanks for the follow Jim!