Neutral switch replacement/adjust help needed

[mtnmankev]

Thanks for the info, the backup lights only work in N or D and no other time.
And if I am in drive going down the road, that's a white light showing to the rear and will get me stopped.
I am living alone here, it's very rare for anybody else to show up, so a helper is pretty much out of the question.
And I don't think I have anything in the shed that would work as a buzzer for 12 volts ...... but it was a thought.

 

[chengny]

In the middle of the night, with no other lights on around you, I would imagine you could see the back-ups if they came on.

If that doesn't work - IDK - back up close to a garage door and use a handheld mirror to check for a sudden increase in illumination?

Just unplug the wires from the switch and use your multi-meter's audible function for continuity?

Find a cop and ask him to observe the back-up light function?

Yep, an old horn or seat belt buzzer would work.

You have many options.

 

[mtnmankev]

Well, you did give me some ideas to work with, thank you !!!
I can make my ohmmeter check continuity.
I have some car horns floating around.
No garage (but I would kill to have one).
I am remote and off the grid, so after the sun sets, I have major cubic darkness here.
And good flashlights to see what I am working on.
The summer heat has set in and I think it fried some important brain cells.

 

[mtnmankev]

Here's what I did, put my multimeter on the switch terminals, put shifter in R and rotated switch until I had continuity.
Put it back in park.
Reconnected the wires to the neutral switch, but in reality it's only a backup light switch.
Went back to R and had no backup lights at the rear of the truck. Put shifter in N or D and the backup lights are on.
I tried to remove the switch as per your instructions, but those plastic tabs do NOT move inward when I press on them. I'm thinking the only way to remove the switch is with a hammer and a good swing.
I'm also wondering, is it possible somebody in a previous life had the switch off and reinstalled it incorrectly and there is another slot for the actuator arm to reside in ? Like perhaps they reinstalled it with the shifter in P instead of N ??

 

[chengny]

You can't get the outer part of the switch to rotate (with a clicking ratchet sound) around the inner part?

Come on man - what's wrong with you?

Seriously, here is the truth. I am trying to help you adjust the existing switch rather than replace it because - I have never been able to remove one of those "snap in " types either.

I think that "push the tabs in" advice is an inside joke started by GM engineers. The switch is probably assembled as part of the column and is never intended to be replaced. They probably said "Hey lets write a R & R procedure that requires pushing in a couple of tabs - but they can't be moved" HA HA

I did poke around at one for awhile once, but that was the time that I discovered the adjusting mechanism. Ever since then I have always been able to save the one that came with the truck.

I really is a sucky place to work. Right up against the firewall, you can only see one side at a time, To just get my giant bald head under the dash board without knocking my glasses off is a pain.

Keep trying to index that outer switch section CW and CCW - it will move.

 

[mtnmankev]

I appreciate your patience, help, and advice, I did get the switch to move, and both ways.
It made the ratchet sound.
I moved it until I had continuity on the switch and the shifter was in the R position..
In theory it should now be adjusted for the lights to work in R.
I went back to Park on the shifter, then tried it out through the gear ranges, and it's the same crap, the lights only work in N or D.
I'm about to start hunting the space aliens that are messing with me.

 

[robert8096]

Did the switch move (adjustment changed) when you put the truck in park? I had one that was so worn that when you put it back in park the switch moved with the shifter.
It is a pain in the ass to change with the column in the truck.

 

[mtnmankev]

Evidently I have one of those worn out switches.
It didn't make a sound as I moved the shifter.
And the problem of lights only in Neutral and Drive remained.
I have tried everything I can think of, and everything everybody has recommended to get the old switch off, nothing works, so now it's remove the steering column and use a 4 lb sledge hammer with a good swing.
And the factory shop manual lied to me, it says remove 2 screws. What screws ???

 

[robert8096]

Some units do have screws and some do not. You can get the snap in style switch out with the column in the truck BUT it is a major pain in the ass. Once you get the column out you can remove the switch with out hammer work. You will be able to get the leverage to undo the snaps with the column out.

Just like the ignition switch tumbler. There are countless articles on the net about replacing the tumbler by removing the screw but there are also some that you have to depress a tab on the tumbler to get out. Sometimes the tab is covered by flashing that has to be removed to get to the tab.

 

[chengny]

Set it where you get continuity across the tabs with the selector in R. Confirm operation of the back-up lamps and then lock it there somehow.

Here are some ideas:

You could use a whole tube of super glue and glue the parts in place

Drill a couple of holes and drive in set screws

Take a propane torch or a big Weller soldering gun and weld the two sections together

 

[robert8096]

Here are pics of one with screws and one without.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mtnmankev]

Mine is definitely one without screws.
I have a new switch but I can't convince the old one it needs to let go of the steering column.
I will have to wait until I have a day my back is up to it and yank the whole column.

 

[chengny]

If you have committed to using the new one - just use a screwdriver and break the tabs off the old one. IDK - might work and you'll gain some insight into how it is attached.

 

[mtnmankev]

I often think if I keep working on this truck, I should be committed ........

Actually my Ford should get me committed.

My plan B if I can't get the lights to work as OEM is to mount a toggle switch and the hot wire will be live all the time. I'm thinking there might be a day (or night) where I could use some work light behind the truck and the engine may not be running with the key on.

 

[Toddd]

I took mine out last night. just squeeze the tabs closest to the fire wall and push up and forward. It pops right out. My question is, this new one has more tabs than the broken one I took off. I know the light green and blue wires plug into the side by side terminals. What plugs into the top/bottom terminals and what wire plugs into the far right solo terminal? My old one didn't have any wires plugged into it.