Need to wack a little off the rear drive shaft..

[jetman]

The rear drive shaft is about 1/2" too long, wants to bottom out against the NP-208 transfer case when hauling heavy loads. I was thinking I could cut/shorten the tube as usual OR perhaps I could shorten the yoke by 1/2".
Wacking 1/2" off the yoke sure would be easier....

Anybody have any experience with chopping the yoke to get a little shaft clearance??

 

[crazy4offroad]

If you do this, use a high-speed cut-off tool like a 4" angle grinder with a cut-off wheel and go REALLY SLOW. The slower you go the cooler the cut. You don't want to overheat the yoke above the running temperature of these parts which is typically under 300 degrees. As for the driveshaft, that's best left to a driveline shop. They can cut it square, weld it square, and balance it for you much faster than you could attempt on your own.

 

[1low4x4]

Man, if its bottoming out in the transfer case at ANY point, sounds like its more than 1/2" too long to me...a driveshaft shop can tell you where to measure point to point and then they will know what to add to make it right

As far as slicing the yoke, aren't those balanced too?

 

[Rusty Nail]

Slicing the yoke sounds like a terrible, horrible plan.
I doubt you could do it.

Isn't that seriously hardened or something?

 

[bucket]

Man, if its bottoming out in the transfer case at ANY point, sounds like its more than 1/2" too long to me...a driveshaft shop can tell you where to measure point to point and then they will know what to add to make it right

As far as slicing the yoke, aren't those balanced too?

I agree with this.

Also, the 208's output sticks out past the seal a good bit. Is the yoke bottoming out externally only? It has to be close internally, and shortening the yoke won't solve that issue.

 

[jetman]

I agree with this.

Also, the 208's output sticks out past the seal a good bit. Is the yoke bottoming out externally only? It has to be close internally, and shortening the yoke won't solve that issue.

Not sure if yoke is bottoming out internally or externally. Will take it apart and measure the internal splines in relation to the end of 208 output shaft. There could be an inch or so of internal clearance that can be taken advantage of...
If any doubt I will take drive shaft into the local machine shop for a $130 haircut.

 

[1low4x4]

Not sure if yoke is bottoming out internally or externally. Will take it apart and measure the internal splines in relation to the end of 208 output shaft. There could be an inch or so of internal clearance that can be taken advantage of...
If any doubt I will take drive shaft into the local machine shop for a $130 haircut.

I've had three driveshaft cut and one lengthened for like $55 each. Might call around

 

[crazy4offroad]

My local driveline shop does charge more for lengthening a driveshaft, they refuse to add on tubing, they replace the whole piece so it's all one piece. But shortening a driveshaft is pretty cheap, right in line with what Nick said his local shop does.

 

[jetman]

Put truck on the lift today to sort things out. Found adequate shaft clearance when rear suspension fully compressed. My issue was the rearmost u-joint, I had inadvertently left the 1/2 ton u-joint when I installed a SF 3/4 ton axle. Had about .060" slop since the 3/4 ton axle yoke needed larger diameter bearing cups. Pressed in a new Precision 447 combination u-joint, drive shaft once again running smooth.

 

[1low4x4]

Put truck on the lift today to sort things out. Found adequate shaft clearance when rear suspension fully compressed. My issue was the rearmost u-joint, I had inadvertently left the 1/2 ton u-joint when I installed a SF 3/4 ton axle. Had about .060" slop since the 3/4 ton axle yoke needed larger diameter bearing cups. Pressed in a new Precision 447 combination u-joint, drive shaft once again running smooth.

ha, been there. Glad you got it sorted out