Need help with 465 clutch adjustment

[Disco]

With the clutch all the way to the floor and the adjuster rod on the fork nearly all the way out, the trans scratches 1st (low?) and reverse. Nothing I do seems to fix it. There seems to be plenty of spring tension on the fork, and it doesn’t have much play. What am I doing wrong?

The shop manual recommends trimming the rubber pedal stop under the dash to 3/8”, but I can barely find that with probing fingers, much less see it or figure out how to remove it to perform said modification.

 

[Ontheboulder]

did you put the clutch plate in correctly?

 

[Disco]

I‘ve not had the clutch out. This is a revival. I just got it started today, and I’m trying to get it to move now.
According to the neighbor I bought it from, it was running and driving before the fork return spring broke and he parked it. That was 2007.

 

[Disco]

Ok, it caught reverse, but with the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and the parking brake on, it started backing down the drive, then stalled…

 

[WebMonkey]

L and R will almost always grind.
(especially if you're moving already or have a 'high' idle)

they are UNsynchronized.

1,2,3 ARE synchronized.

good luck

 

[Disco]

Alright. I’ll try 1st tomorrow. From how it behaved, reversing with the clutch in and the brake set, kinda sounds like my clutch is dragging or not fully disengaging.

 

[Ontheboulder]

Well now it’s making sense! Sounds like the pressure plate is sticking and maybe has some broken springs. Sitting since 2007 hasn’t done any good

 

[Disco]

Eww… I was afraid of that. Ok, so clutch job… I can’t do that on my back under the truck with simple hand tools and no special equipment (like an engine hoist), I assume?

 

[Disco]

Anyone know which clutch goes in a Big 10 350 456? I have 4 options here:
-An 11” clutch disc with normal finger spring diaphragm
-A 12” disc with the same
-An 11” disc with what appears to be a coil spring diaphragm
-A 12” disc with the same.