My red line is... 3k?

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DakotasGMC

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So I've owned my truck, a 1973 GMC 3500 with the original low mileage 350 in it, for a couple years now. I have always babied the truck for the most part, but was really surprised to find out my truck won't rev past 3,000 RPMs. I installed the new Tach yesterday, took it for a drive, and the truck is screaming, alternator belt squeaking, and it stops accelerating at 3k (it's a 4-speed). There's no way this is normal, is it? I hear everyone saying these things rev safely to 5k. thanks guys
 

foamypirate

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So I've owned my truck, a 1973 GMC 3500 with the original low mileage 350 in it, for a couple years now. I have always babied the truck for the most part, but was really surprised to find out my truck won't rev past 3,000 RPMs. I installed the new Tach yesterday, took it for a drive, and the truck is screaming, alternator belt squeaking, and it stops accelerating at 3k (it's a 4-speed). There's no way this is normal, is it? I hear everyone saying these things rev safely to 5k. thanks guys

Make sure the Tach is in 8 cylinder mode if it has a switch.
 

firebane

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points or hei ignition?

If hei check your plug gap is correct.
 

chengny

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I don't mean to sound like an old fart, but can I ask why you want your engine to rev high? Besides lack of lubrication (or in extreme cases, insufficient cooling capacity), excessive rotational speed is the quickest way to destroy a reciprocating engine.

The centrifugal forces developed by operating an engine above design speed are enormous and those loads are carried by the crankshaft, rods and bearings.

Okay, I'm done with preaching so a few questions:

What is your road speed with the engine at WOT and the transmission in 4th gear?

If the transmission is put in neutral and the engine is revved, can you exceed that 3K limit?

What is the ratio of your gears in the rear end?

Do you have oversized tires mounted?

Have you checked to be sure your throttle plates can open fully (and there is plenty of fuel flow, no exhaust restrictions or lack or combustion air)?


Maximum engine RPM is a function of external load. If the throttle plates can go wide open, plenty of fuel is available and there are no exhaust/intake restrictions - that's about all you can do (provided everything else is in good order).

When the accelerator is pushed to the floor engine speed will increase to a point where it's available horsepower limit is reached.

If the transmission is in neutral, there is essentially zero load. Go WOT in neutral and I assure you, you'll get more than 3000 RPM - course you will also quickly destroy the motor.

Start driving and apply an external load. Now you'll notice that the rpm's will not increase so quickly. Shift to a higher gear and go faster. Wind and rolling resistance will steadily increase the load on the engine. At some point you will reach the engine's design power output.

To answer your question; you might have a set of gears in the rear end that have a really high input/output ratio. You might have huge tires. They cover a longer distance in one revolution than a stock tire. Either of these two variables will tend to decrease engine rpm for a given road speed.

The idiots that rev the **** out of their motors, light em' up - and brag about RPM, are getting no more power from their plants than you are. They just blow their load quicker.

You might take a while to catch up. But when you do, your engine will be breathing easy - just cruising along. Those guys with lower gear ratios and smaller tires will need to crank the **** out of their plants just to keep up.

The reduced stress on the engine internals due to lower RPM's will greatly extend it's life - that's the payoff.

And remember, these trucks were built for work - not play.
 
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DakotasGMC

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I don't mean to sound like an old fart, but can I ask why you want your engine to rev high? Besides lack of lubrication (or in extreme cases, insufficient cooling capacity), excessive rotational speed is the quickest way to destroy a reciprocating engine.

The centrifugal forces developed by operating an engine above design speed are enormous and those loads are carried by the crankshaft, rods and bearings.

Okay, I'm done with preaching so a few questions:

What is your road speed with the engine at WOT and the transmission in 4th gear?

If the transmission is put in neutral and the engine is revved, can you exceed that 3K limit?

What is the ratio of your gears in the rear end?

Do you have oversized tires mounted?

Have you checked to be sure your throttle plates can open fully (and there is plenty of fuel flow, no exhaust restrictions or lack or combustion air)?


Maximum engine RPM is a function of external load. If the throttle plates can go wide open, plenty of fuel is available and there are no exhaust/intake restrictions - that's about all you can do (provided everything else is in good order).

When the accelerator is pushed to the floor engine speed will increase to a point where it's available horsepower limit is reached.

If the transmission is in neutral, there is essentially zero load. Go WOT in neutral and I assure you, you'll get more than 3000 RPM - course you will also quickly destroy the motor.

Start driving and apply an external load. Now you'll notice that the rpm's will not increase so quickly. Shift to a higher gear and go faster. Wind and rolling resistance will steadily increase the load on the engine. At some point you will reach the engine's design power output.

To answer your question; you might have a set of gears in the rear end that have a really high input/output ratio. You might have huge tires. They cover a longer distance in one revolution than a stock tire. Either of these two variables will tend to decrease engine rpm for a given road speed.

The idiots that rev the **** out of their motors, light em' up - and brag about RPM, are getting no more power from their plants than you are. They just blow their load quicker.

You might take a while to catch up. But when you do, your engine will be breathing easy - just cruising along. Those guys with lower gear ratios and smaller tires will need to crank the **** out of their plants just to keep up.

The reduced stress on the engine internals due to lower RPM's will greatly extend it's life - that's the payoff.

And remember, these trucks were built for work - not play.

I don't necessarily care how high it revs. I'm just confused on why it won't rev high. The speed at WOT in 4th gear is about 75-80. It did 80 one time going down hill. Usually stops accelerating about 75-77 mph. The tires are the original sized tires. Its got 4.10 gears. It will exceed the 3k limit if it's in neutral. It will hit 3400 or so, but it's scary loud (what someone, including myself, would think is 5-6k). im just not going to worry about it. At the end of the day, it gets the job done. Thanks for the input, you said a lot of helpful things!
 

rich weyand

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It's running out of air. Sounds like your secondaries aren't opening.
 

glockholiday

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My 350 will turn 4K but it's not doing much good after 3500.

Like Rich said above, the previous owner could have disconnected the secondaries to keep from using more fuel.
 

NOPHO84K30

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My 454 sm465 410 gears 35 inch tires is screaming at 3000 rmp. Doing 70 on freeway wont do much more i hit 3700 or so mudding it once thought it was going to blow up. Sounded like a machine gun popping off. It just dont like the rpms but plenty of low end
 

yevgenievich

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I had a 468 with a small blower in my camaro a while ago, and it was one of the most street rev happy big blocks I have personally seen. It would be at 6k almost instantly. For a truck, stock big blocks have nothing in them after 3500-4000 rpm. I had one in a a 88 truck, it would stand on its rear tires taking off in low gear, but after 30mph it was all over. Sold it with very hard 230k miles on stock 454/sm465/14 bolt
 
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