Molasses rust removal

[Manbearpig]

Seems like a much easier process compared to the Electolysis method that has been posted about on here as well. I need to locate some rust stuff and give this a try I think

Indeeed!

I felt like I was cooking meth doing that

 

[Old77]

As long as you still have all your teeth and your house didn't blow up consider yourself lucky

 

[89Suburban]

Hahahah..

 

[f1shman]

Well I have one more update on this. I went and pulled the vise back out of it's bath again tonight. It has definitely cleaned up nicely, and I'm sure if I hit it with a toothbrush I could get the rest of the little bits off of it that you see in the picture. However, it seems no matter how long I leave it in the bath I can't get the screw adjustments to free up. So perhaps that will be the area where electrolysis will have an advantage. I took a picture of the bath after I had pulled the vise out too. Compare it with the original color of the liquid back on page 1.

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[Manbearpig]

Looking good!

 

[Old77]

nice improvement!!

 

[89Suburban]

.

 

[elstm3]

hhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm i think i am stopping by the feed store a few blocks over right after work today.

 

[89Suburban]

Great thread to wake up, another original member who disappeared into the sunset. Made some great contributions to this site. Hope he finds his way back someday....

 

[chengny]

Just as an aside:

Whatever rust removal method you choose (CLR, Barkeepers Friend, electrolysis, phosphoric acid, etc) the process will be accelerated if the bulk of the oxidation (and grease, oil, etc) has already been taken off.

I have found a good method to break up the thick scale - so that the final conversion happens faster.

Try putting the rusty object in the oven (electric only) and using the self-clean setting.

The high temperatures reached during the self-clean cycle will knock off almost all the scale. When you pull the object out there will be just a thin layer reaming. That will convert much quicker.

 

[elstm3]

Interesting, i would try this but i think my wife would kill me lol

 

[HotRodPC]

How in living hell did I ever miss this thread??? Sorry to say f1shman left in a pist off rage, but at least he left something good behind. I guess I won't get to thank him for a great addition. Bummer.

Just as an aside:

Whatever rust removal method you choose (CLR, Barkeepers Friend, electrolysis, phosphoric acid, etc) the process will be accelerated if the bulk of the oxidation (and grease, oil, etc) has already been taken off.

I have found a good method to break up the thick scale - so that the final conversion happens faster.

Try putting the rusty object in the oven (electric only) and using the self-clean setting.

The high temperatures reached during the self-clean cycle will knock off almost all the scale. When you pull the object out there will be just a thin layer reaming. That will convert much quicker.

I've done this before, and even on my self clean gas oven. I usually do self clean once a year, and I usually do it on a cold as hell day, since the cycle runs so long and gets so hot, that it warms the house and if I'm spending that much gas to clean the oven I want to heat the house too and get something from it, and I do put any parts that would benefit on the oven rack too. Pretty much, self clean turns junk into thin film layers and just blows off with compressed air after a self clean cycle. It can get smokey in the house though.

Electric would be better though, so potential flammable chemicals don't catch fire from the gas burner flame. I've been keeping my eye out for someone throwing away an electric oven for a couple years now. Self clean would be even better.

A buddy of mine also cooks his connecting rods before shot peening them. He says it stress relieves them. You start the temp up real high, then lower just a bit, like say 50 degrees every 15-30 minutes. Personally, I don't think a backing oven gets hot enough for the process.

 

[HotRodPC]

So I got some cheap sunglasses with thick black frames, where's the bitch that's sweet as molasses??? Come to find out, it's a grandma. So rather that take her out on date, I just bought a bottle of Grandma's Original Molasses.

Gonna give this stuff a try on a set of 4.10 14b FF gears that I forgot my dad had from his 94 C&C 1 ton that he had a gear change done when the truck had about 600 miles on it. So they are brand new gears been laying around since Jan of 94 when he bought the truck, and he let them get wet and they have a bit of rust on them. I'll post before and after pics when I get started.

 

[HotRodPC]

And here's a pid of Grandma's 12oz Original Molasses at the grocery store near the pancake syrup for $2.78 a bottle. And the 4.10 r&p that has about 600 miles on them and look like hell. My dad should be shot, but being a beekeeper himself, he's like the Honey Badger and don't give a **** !!! So here I'll give this a try. No matter the outcome, I'm using the gears. They aren't pitted and being used and in gear oil, this rust will soon go away anyway, so I've got nothing to lose.

 

[89Suburban]

So I got some cheap sunglasses with thick black frames, where's the bitch that's sweet as molasses??? Come to find out, it's a grandma..

Hahahah, wtf is this ****?

And here's a pid of Grandma's 12oz Original Molasses at the grocery store near the pancake syrup for $2.78 a bottle. And the 4.10 r&p that has about 600 miles on them and look like hell. My dad should be shot, but being a beekeeper himself, he's like the Honey Badger and don't give a **** !!! So here I'll give this a try. No matter the outcome, I'm using the gears. They aren't pitted and being used and in gear oil, this rust will soon go away anyway, so I've got nothing to lose.

Awesome man, I miss these projects, can't wait to watch and learn!