Messed up somewhere installing new distributor cap/rotor and cables. Need some guidance.

[Iamthewalrus]

‘83 Chevy C20 with 350. So yesterday I did the swap out mentioned in the title. I did not set up the cables to distributor cap in the same way it was already set up, because I noticed it was set up in some weird order. I set it up based on the photo in this post taken from my Haynes manual. With the #1 plug wire where it’s shown in the photo, which is marked to be #1. From what I understand, as long as the distributor cap is set up with #1 in the correct spot it should work fine, but the truck won’t start. Is that incorrect? I’m really stumped and not sure where I should start troubleshooting when I get home from work today. Can anyone shed some light on this?

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[Dutch Rutter]

‘83 Chevy C20 with 350. So yesterday I did the swap out mentioned in the title. I did not set up the cables to distributor cap in the same way it was already set up, because I noticed it was set up in some weird order. I set it up based on the photo in this post taken from my Haynes manual. With the #1 plug wire where it’s shown in the photo, which is marked to be #1. From what I understand, as long as the distributor cap is set up with #1 in the correct spot it should work fine, but the truck won’t start. Is that incorrect? I’m really stumped and not sure where I should start troubleshooting when I get home from work today. Can anyone shed some light on this?

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Should set it back the way they were removed. From the factory and most people would set them the way the book shows. However, they do not have to be set that way. Therefore by moving the plug wires around your throwing your timing off.

When building an engine you should find TDC on your compression stroke, then place your distributor in with the rotor facing cylinder #1's physical location like shown here. However, it does not always work out this way (oil pump drive shaft gives troubles) and it gets placed somewhere else. The point the rotor points to at this point then becomes number 1 and add the firing order the rest of the way around.

I just ended up going through this whole ordeal, It can get pretty mind numbing.

 

[Iamthewalrus]

So theoretically couldn’t I change my #1 location on the cap all the way around until I find where it was? I wasn’t smart enough to mark that before.


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[Dutch Rutter]

So theoretically couldn’t I change my #1 location on the cap all the way around until I find where it was? I wasn’t smart enough to mark that before.


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You can, But you will want to bring #1 up to TDC on the compression stroke. Pull the dizzy cap see where the rotor is pointing and you can use that point as your #1 then put the wires on in the firing order (18436572)

This is the link I followed and it worked for us. But this was for a new setup. so it can be a little different then your situation.
http://automotivethinker.com/engines/setting-initial-timing-on-a-small-block-chevy-sbc/

 

[Frankenchevy]

If you loosen your plugs it’ll be easier to rotate your engine by the crank bolt. Then, just as Dutch said, find tdc of #1 on compression stroke. You’ll know it the comp stroke by placing your thumb over the hole as it approaches tdc, it’ll blow air.

Your post title is slightly ambiguous. Did you replace distributor, cap/rotor and wires or...distributor cap/rotor and wires?

If you didn’t replace the distributor itself, you won’t need to find exact tdc on compression stroke. Just wait for the air to stop blowing and the rotor will be closest to the number one tower. If you DID replace the distributor, you’ll want to be more exact in finding your true #1 tdc, so you can accurately re-time the engine.

 

[Iamthewalrus]

I did not replace the distributor, just the distributor cap and rotor and wires.


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[75Monza]

Most likely someone in the past did have the distributor out and plopped it back either 180° out or a tooth or so out if they tried to line up distributor to wherever oil pump shaft landed at instead of moving oil pump shaft to match where distributor should be. Once that happens, the wires will not be in factory order on the cap. You don't have to pull distributor and reset it correctly, just do as Dutch suggested. I like to put mine back to stock just because most wire sets nowadays end up with one or two wires stretched across trying to reach a plug because of the now incorrect position on the cap.

 

[Iamthewalrus]

So let me just make sure I understand. All I need to do is use the finger method to find my compression stroke on #1, get it as close to TDC as I can (which should be close enough?), note rotor location at my TDC, start cap wire for #1 at that location and go with my normal firing order from there.


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[75Monza]

Yes. Shouldn't have to move timing if it was okay before you changed wiring.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

Yes. Shouldn't have to move timing if it was okay before you changed wiring.

Exactly right. Sorry, if I wasn't too clear. Its been some hard long days lately and I'm either over caffeinated or way under caffeinated, haven't quite decided yet