m55hv pump in stock pan - what oil pickup?

[theblindchicken]

Trucks got the stock 7.25" oil pan. Installing a new Melling m55hv high volume pump that is slightly taller than the stock pump.

Trying to determine what pickup will work. Looks like I need one that has a 5/8" tube diameter, and has only a 3/4" drop between the tube centerline and the bottom of the pickup due to an "optimum" 3/8" clearance between the bottom of the pickup and the pan.

Thinking I can order a pickup designed for a 7" pan being that the pump outlet sits 3/8" lower on the HV pump versus the stock pump. So that would let the pickup sit around 1/8" lower than previously, but this is all calculated out before the oil gasket has been installed.

Sound about right?

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[yevgenievich]

Sounds like it should work. Maybe bend a little(1/8) as well if needed

 

[Daveo91Burb]

Seems like we're in similar stages with our engine builds - I'm working on oil pump issues now too. So which pickup are you going to end up using? Melling 55S1? Seems like it will work pretty good with my Melling M55 pump and stock pan.

How are you securing the pickup to the pump? Weld? There is a bolt on pickup retainer available for $20 or so, tempting but I might try welding first. I have the original pump and pickup that I can practice on. If I don't like it I may buy the retainer.

 

[yevgenievich]

I welded a pick up tube out of emt condoit before for a 5.3 in a datsun. Seem to work ok

 

[74 Shortbed]

Be very careful welding/brazing it's very easy to warp the body, if it does warp the relief valve won't work, and I've seen a lot of welded ones crack too, I use green Loc-Tite(bearing race retainer)it'll never fall out, and you can always safety wire it if it worries you.. Just my experience over the years, do whatever gives you peace of mind..

 

[MikeB]

Melling says to use their 55-S1 pickup/screen and IS-55E intermediate shaft with the M55HV pump. The screen can be adjusted up/down for proper pan clearance before you tack weld it. Just stick some clay or play dough at the bottom of the pan, tighten a few pan bolts with gasket in place, and go from there.

After Melling reduced the weight (made it less stout) of the M55 series pump several years ago, I switched to Melling Select 10552. More expensive, but nice features and cheap insurance. And your engine probably doesn't need anything more than its 10% additional volume.

http://www.melling.com/aftermarket/high-performance/cast-iron-aluminum-oil-pumps

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-10552

 

[Daveo91Burb]

Be very careful welding/brazing it's very easy to warp the body, if it does warp the relief valve won't work, and I've seen a lot of welded ones crack too, I use green Loc-Tite(bearing race retainer)it'll never fall out, and you can always safety wire it if it worries you.. Just my experience over the years, do whatever gives you peace of mind..

I bought the green stuff today (it's actually Permatex brand, but they use the same color coding). Used that AND I drilled and tapped a hole in the pump body where the pickup tube goes in for a 10-24 set screw. Put that one in with RED loctite. No welding. Should be good to go.

After Melling reduced the weight (made it less stout) of the M55 series pump several years ago, I switched to Melling Select 10552. More expensive, but nice features and cheap insurance. And your engine probably doesn't need anything more than its 10% additional volume.

So I actually found out that I'm just using a regular M55, not the HV. My engine builder recommended a stock pump for my build. I'm sure I could do better than the 55, but it's a good price, seems decently well made and in the USA to boot. I think I've been running one in my Vette for the last six years and no issues so far.

 

[74 Shortbed]

I bought the green stuff today (it's actually Permatex brand, but they use the same color coding). Used that AND I drilled and tapped a hole in the pump body where the pickup tube goes in for a 10-24 set screw. Put that one in with RED loctite. No welding. Should be good to go.

It ain't going anywhere now..

So I actually found out that I'm just using a regular M55, not the HV. My engine builder recommended a stock pump for my build. I'm sure I could do better than the 55, but it's a good price, seems decently well made and in the USA to boot. I think I've been running one in my Vette for the last six years and no issues so far.

You can only push so much oil through the passages. There's absolutely no reason to use a HV pump unless you're feeding accessories like turbos and ****, all it does is take power and put stress on the distributor gear, what needs to be done to a stock pump or any of them for that matter is reduce the gear to cover clearance, they have way too much clearance in them as they come, set the clearance and you'll think you have a HV pump, and if you still want more pressure an AN washer against the spring will step it up 5lbs or so..

 

[Honky Kong jr]

You can only push so much oil through the passages. There's absolutely no reason to use a HV pump unless you're feeding accessories like turbos and ****.

Just curious what other "****" are we gonna run with the oil pump????

 

[74 Shortbed]

Just curious what other "****" are we gonna run with the oil pump????

Smartazz, now I owe ya again..

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Smartazz, now I owe ya again..

Will it ever end?????? Oh wait I'm SSM......

 

[74 Shortbed]

Will it ever end?????? Oh wait I'm SSM......

That answers the question.

 

[shiftpro]

Does a HV actually use more power to spin? I thought that was more in line with HP pumps?

On the mighty cast iron BBC, you can port the rear cap to help flow. I don't know if this is relative to the sbc.

As we know the BBC can be hard on cam lobes. So we cut a groove on the lifter bore to get more oil on the lobes.
Would this mod benefit with a HV pump?
Also enlarging (sorry forget the specs) the plug hole above the cam chain helps the lifespan of the timing chain,
again flowing more oil than a stock engine.

 

[MrMarty51]

I have rebuilt a few engines in My time and have just drove the pickup tube into the pump, none of them have ever shifted or fallen off.

 

[74 Shortbed]

Does a HV actually use more power to spin? I thought that was more in line with HP pumps?

If you use a speed handle to prime the motor by hand, you will feel the difference between the two and it's very noticeable.

On the mighty cast iron BBC, you can port the rear cap to help flow. I don't know if this is relative to the sbc.

Right, I do it all the time big or small block, but all that does is smooth out the flow and eliminates turbulence at the pump, passages are still the same size as bearing clearances, so the volume is still the same.

As we know the BBC can be hard on cam lobes. So we cut a groove on the lifter bore to get more oil on the lobes.
Would this mod benefit with a HV pump?

Well, that depends on how deep of groove you cut, lol, just the slightest bit will flow enough oil without affecting the volume, also if you clean out the center slots in the valley helps too.

Also enlarging (sorry forget the specs) the plug hole above the cam chain helps the lifespan of the timing chain,
again flowing more oil than a stock engine.

The two galley plugs are already drilled .035 from the factory to release air and to lube the chain, any bigger and the oil gets whipped around and gets aerated, not the best thing. As I mentioned before, set the clearance right (.0025) it makes the pump more positive which will flow more oil and an increase in pressure.