Low battery / constant drain

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Restoredrust

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2017
Posts
59
Reaction score
6
Location
Hawaii
First Name
Brandon
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350 v8
hey, so here's the deal, my 1986 Scottsdale keeps having low battery when I go to start it up, I'll charge it and it will be good for an hour or two but then I'll need to jump it or charge the battery again, if I jump the truck it runs great no problems starting what so ever, I haven't tested the battery yet to see if it's good but it's a relatively new battery, I bought it 2-3 months ago. I was wondering if anyone knows what wires should be hot and what wires shouldn't be hot when the truck is off, it's really frustrating haha thank you!
 

Honky Kong jr

Super Sarcastic Man
Joined
Jun 14, 2016
Posts
14,968
Reaction score
9,828
Location
Denver,PA
First Name
J-me
Truck Year
87
Truck Model
V10
Engine Size
Lil BB 407
You can do an amp draw test but you'd need a clamp on amp tester. You can also disconnect the battery positive cable put your meter between the battery and the disconnected cable start pulling fuses. If no change put it back and move on to the next fuse. If you pull a fuse and it goes to zero or drops a bunch that's your draw.
 

Daveo91Burb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2014
Posts
663
Reaction score
231
Location
Vancouver, WA
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1991
Truck Model
V2500 Silverado Suburban
Engine Size
Vortec 383, modified TBI/4L80e
Be careful if you use a regular, consumer grade meter (not the clamp on type) and put it in line with the battery - sounds like you have a significant current draw that could easily blow your meter or its fuses (don't ask me how I know this....the fuses I blew were hard to find)
 

Cuba

Likes to work alone in her woman cave
Joined
Apr 27, 2014
Posts
405
Reaction score
235
Location
Philly, PA USA
First Name
Cuba
Truck Year
89
Truck Model
S10 Blazer
Engine Size
4.3ltr TBI
X2 what Dave said^^

If you don't have an Amp clamp, use an incandescent test light.

Disconnect the negative cable on the battery. Use the test light inline to connect the cable to the battery. At this point, the test light should be glowing bright... this is the draw... You are "seeing" it versing reading the amps draw. Next try pulling fuses, one at a time to see which of the fuses pulled reduces the brightness of the test light bulb. This will be the circuit to focus on... or at least one of. When you have found the main culprit, the test light will still be lit but very very dimly.

If you've gone through all the fuses and none affect the brightness of the test light, this means it's one of the "always Hot" circuits... such as starter cable, Alternator cable, Ignition switch cable...

Post back after if you need more help. Try to keep the battery charged up with the maintenance charger. If the battery runs too low for too long, this will kill it prematurely. You can use the maintainer on the battery while using the test light draw finding.

Just realized Honky posted similar using the meter... I find it easier with the test light... not have to read the meter.
*sorry Honky :)
 

Honky Kong jr

Super Sarcastic Man
Joined
Jun 14, 2016
Posts
14,968
Reaction score
9,828
Location
Denver,PA
First Name
J-me
Truck Year
87
Truck Model
V10
Engine Size
Lil BB 407
Sorry put your meter on 20amp scale. Not milliamperes. @Cuba yes the test light is easier I also have made noid lights to put into fuse boxes to find shorts.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,173
Posts
950,856
Members
36,288
Latest member
brentjo
Top