Looking to get a K10 for mid-life crisis

[American Frontier]

Hey all
So my mid-life is a few years off but I am trying to get a start on my mid-life crisis early and looking to get a 80's K10. I want a manual and a short body and out of every 10 K10's I see for sale online only 1 or 2 are manual so know choice is going to be limited especially in north NJ where I can see the NYC skyline. Not much use for big trucks here.

I've found one about 70 miles from me and gone to check it out and structurally it seems fine. I have virtually no mechanic skills and just know what I've learned watching Truck Tech, TruckU and other videos on YouTube, so a little curious of getting something that will require a lot of skill and/or money. It does needs work, like owner needs to get it running , the windscreen needs replacing and he says the clutch will need replacing soon. I couldn't see any worrying rust, but the corner of the foot wells do have some surface rust as think water getting in from windows having no weatherstrip.

It seems like it's going to cost of a couple $K to get running properly then what ever else I decide to replacing and improve on.....so should I just dive in and get it, or play it safe and pick another hobby?

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Pictures would make any assessment of what you're looking at a whole lot easier. Four years ago, I knew only the bare basics of working on vehicles, but knowledge comes from experience and a lot more videos. I didn't let the lack of knowledge stop me so I don't think it should stop you either. That being said, there are wrong ways to do something for every correct way. A lot of people do the wrong way or ways, get discouraged, bored, or run out of money, liquidate their project, and bunches of people come here week after week with problems that shouldn't exist if people didn't half ass their way through a task. Not saying you would, but anyone who is good at seeing things through and taking every step to make sure something is done right would probably be good at this. I have huge, clunky hands, I'm not that dexterous, and I have zero patience, but I would still say I'm a good technician because I'm systematic and care about getting things done right.

I wouldn't expect four figures just to get it running unless the motor or gearbox have taken a hike, but I'm sure if you're looking for a full resto you'll surpass that over time. Compared to buying a new piece of plastic with a pickup bed on wheels, I'd still say you'd come out fine even if you spent six thousand dollars to get it looking, running, and driving nicely. Common rust areas are cab corners, rockers panels, floor pan, front inner fenders. You should get under and check the frame and underbody for rust before you declare it a win.

 

[The88]

If you are after a project I would go look on copart and see what you can find. You could be pleasantly surprised. Maybe spend pennies on the dollar for a good starting point for a project. Good luck

 

[Snoots]

Enlist before it's too late.

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[78C10BigTen]

Pictures would make any assessment of what you're looking at a whole lot easier. Four years ago, I knew only the bare basics of working on vehicles, but knowledge comes from experience and a lot more videos. I didn't let the lack of knowledge stop me so I don't think it should stop you either. That being said, there are wrong ways to do something for every correct way. A lot of people do the wrong way or ways, get discouraged, bored, or run out of money, liquidate their project, and bunches of people come here week after week with problems that shouldn't exist if people didn't half ass their way through a task. Not saying you would, but anyone who is good at seeing things through and taking every step to make sure something is done right would probably be good at this. I have huge, clunky hands, I'm not that dexterous, and I have zero patience, but I would still say I'm a good technician because I'm systematic and care about getting things done right.

I wouldn't expect four figures just to get it running unless the motor or gearbox have taken a hike, but I'm sure if you're looking for a full resto you'll surpass that over time. Compared to buying a new piece of plastic with a pickup bed on wheels, I'd still say you'd come out fine even if you spent six thousand dollars to get it looking, running, and driving nicely. Common rust areas are cab corners, rockers panels, floor pan, front inner fenders. You should get under and check the frame and underbody for rust before you declare it a win.

Dont forget the common frame cracks near the steering box, rotting cab support from the rocker to the body mount and rot at the bottom of the rad support near body mounts.

 

[American Frontier]

Hi guys. Yeah pics would help... uploaded a few now. Thanks for the wise words. Largest most difficult job that needs doing is going to be the clutch replacement, which my local garage quoted anywhere from $1200-2000 due to amount of labor involved. The other bits I can do myself and learn new skills.

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[Charlie]

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

This maybe expecting a lot, but if it were me, I’d rent/buy an engine hoist, pull the engine myself, and clean up/paint the engine (long block, bracketery, accessory pulleys, new valve covers, get rid of that Edelbrock, etc.), clean up/paint the engine bay and frame as much as you can, and then go for the clutch. That way you’d kill three birds with one stone. You could also do some engine maintenance while it was out that’s hard(er) to do with it in there. By the way, you don’t have to get rid of the Edelbrock if it works, but I prefer Quadrajets. Some people prefer Holleys. There are good points to both. I know some people do, but I’ve never heard someone on here outright say, “I love Edelbrock carbs.” Also, with the engine/engine bay cleanup, let me show you someone who did a great job on theirs.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/burb-87v20sb350sm465.14951/page-2

 

[HotRodPC]

Hi guys. Yeah pics would help... uploaded a few now. Thanks for the wise words. Largest most difficult job that needs doing is going to be the clutch replacement, which my local garage quoted anywhere from $1200-2000 due to amount of labor involved. The other bits I can do myself and learn new skills.

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Here's the deal. Unless you intend to throw lots of cash at whatever you buy, you're going to have to learn a little bit. That $1200 - $2000 for a clutch just made me cringe. Parts are what? About $150 $200 at most and that should include having the flywheel turned at a machine shop. I'm thinking to save $1000-$1700 you can damn sure do a clutch. There's no tricks to it. It's straight forward bolt it in type job so long as you use a clutch alignment tool that usually comes in the clutch kit.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Here's the deal. Unless you intend to throw lots of cash at whatever you buy, you're going to have to learn a little bit. That $1200 - $2000 for a clutch just made me cringe. Parts are what? About $150 $200 at most and that should include having the flywheel turned at a machine shop. I'm thinking to save $1000-$1700 you can damn sure do a clutch. There's no tricks to it. It's straight forward bolt it in type job so long as you use a clutch alignment tool that usually comes in the clutch kit.

Also cringed at that lol. Like you said the hardest part is getting the spline shaft lined up through the clutch into the pilot bearing/bushing

 

[DanMcG]

You never mentioned how much you wanted to spend, but I think you'd be better off finding a nice restored truck that you can tinker with and not having to worry about any major work.

 

[HotRodPC]

Also cringed at that lol. Like you said the hardest part is getting the spline shaft lined up through the clutch into the pilot bearing/bushing

Those plastic alignment tools are the ****. Even a cave man can do it. I know if he was local, I'd do it for $500 and have it done the same day if I got started by 10 or 11am.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Those plastic alignment tools are the ****. Even a cave man can do it. I know if he was local, I'd do it for $500 and have it done the same day if I got started by 10 or 11am.

**** yeah! Easy day job for someone with decent experience, and a good weekend project for someone with minimal experience.

They even send you the alignment tool with the new clutch, it doesn’t get much easier than that. Also on the plus side it’s easier to line the trans up to the mounted engine, rather than trying to mate the engine up to the mounted trans.

 

[78C10BigTen]

Also on the plus side it’s easier to line the trans up to the mounted engine, rather than trying to mate the engine up to the mounted trans.

Im not sure about a manual but after doing it about 6 times with a th350 thats certainly true!

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Im not sure about a manual but after doing it about 6 times with a th350 thats certainly true!

Manuals are the hardest to drop the engine in when the trans is mounted. Also harder mating it up to a mounted engine than an automatic. In my experience anyways!

So all in all manuals are harder to work with IMO but you just need to have patience and have to get a little western with it sometimes as well.