Lift or rebuild stock?

[Old60Driver]

Evening folks!

Welp, I've got my '83 K20 just about dialed in, performance wise. And man, do I love driving the old girl. Constantly coming up with reasons to take her for a cruise! lol

Decided I was going to go on and change both diff fluids, and the NP208 fluid to boot. Got under there today to power wash her underbelly and really took a look around. Some significant corrosion. Specifically where the leaf springs are concerned. The springs themselves look decent enough, but all the brackets holding them together look pretty bad. As does all the bushings (rotten-ish) and whatnot. She's still got all the original shocks, bushings and springs, with 67K miles on the odo.

So here are my questions:

Should I just replace with a stock system, or bump up to a 2" or 4" lift? I'm running 285/75R16's, and I think she looks pretty good (see pic), but I'm wondering if a slight lift wouldn't look better?

Also, what will I sacrifice in ride quality? Believe it or not, she's still on original shocks, on all four corners, and to be honest, she rides pretty decent. I'd hate to screw that up, and get beat half to death while taking my wife out to cruise the strip.

And if I DO go up with a 2-4" lift, will I need to modify and steering and/or drivetrain components?

Bear in mind, I'm trying to keep the cost down, as I just replaced everything North of the pistons, and as wonderful as my wife is, she's gonna eventually start giving me the stink-eye. LOL

'Preciate y'alls input, and have a great (coming up) 4th of July!

 

[Shorty81]

Keep er' stock height

 

[DoubleDingo]

Keep er' stock height

^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^

 

[squaredeal91]

Looks good the way she is now.

 

[Doppleganger]

When I replaced my springs with a new stock height kit, it still lifted it about 2" (my guess from the originals being tired). I'm running the same tire size.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[squaredeal91]

Looks good the way she is now.

When I replaced my springs with a new stock height kit, it still lifted it about 2" (my guess from the originals being tired). I'm running the same tire size.

You must be registered for see images attach

My 78 has 2" lift thats worn in and it's perfect lol

 

[Zelph]

I’ll be odd man out and say lift it. I think a 2-3” lift with 33’s is how the K series should have come from the factory.

You shouldn’t need any modifications until you start getting into the 4”.

Tuff Country ( not rough country) is probably the smoothest off the shelf leaf springs in my experience of lifted trucks.

 

[RanchWelder]

Just went through the same conundrum with my build.

It's worth investigating what you have now, vs "actual off the showroom floor stock height".

After installing 8 inch longer 3/4 ton leaf springs on shackle flip perches, the measurement at the center of hub from the ground to the fender is 2-1/2 inches higher than the front blazer fender to ground measurement.

So it looks like it is slightly lifted, right?

Until you notice the front springs and bushings are worn out bad, bent or inverted leaves.
My rig could be easily have been 2-1/2 inches lower than where they are supposed to be.

Adding new front springs/bushings, with an extra duty ride leaf, might actually bring the front fender height a bit over the rear, in my situation. I'm still not OEM height.

Was concerned I had accidentally lifted it, when in fact I might end up even or slightly lower than a proper OEM front set.

Establishing a base line of how much lower than stock you are now, would be my best consideration, before you opt for anything intentionally raising your suspension.

I had never owned a Blazer with an OEM suspension.
Had no idea mine was so damaged or my spring rate was so relaxed, would be stating it correctly.

There's Spring shops, that can re-temper the OEM springs and/or add a leaf.
With the quality of some aftermarket steel imports, it might be worthwhile to have an expert spring shop with a furnace, refurbish what you have now?

OEM spring material was really good in the old days.
The newer trucks break them all the time hauling hay bales, on newer material springs.

My insurance company asked me politely NOT to lift it.
So I did not.

Might have to add an inch to my rear shackle to make it actually stock.
The distance the shocks travel is critical too.

If your suspension is sagging, regardless of miles, (even just from sitting), the shock travel might be out of range for a ride on a dirt road with a heavy foot.

In regards to your question, including remaining on budget...

Why not try a set of these before you do anything else?

LINK $246.95:
Front & Rear Shock Absorbers Kit Monroe Load Adjusting For Chevy Blazer K5 K20

This set worked so well, adding lift to my worn out springs, for the past three years I had no idea my leaves were so bad...

These are not expensive either:
Link $33.00:
Leaf Spring Clamp Kit

Buy you a few years to suss it out, on the cheap?

If your bushings are not rotten and your bolts are not rusted out, add some helper shocks with springs first. It really changed my ride for the better and was very easy to try before I finally had to change the rear end and springs, due to rear axle bearing wear, c-clip removal and increased towing capacity requirements.

Good luck.

 

[Old60Driver]

Just went through the same conundrum with my build.

It's worth investigating what you have now, vs "actual off the showroom floor stock height".

After installing 8 inch longer 3/4 ton leaf springs on shackle flip perches, the measurement at the center of hub from the ground to the fender is 2-1/2 inches higher than the front blazer fender to ground measurement.

So it looks like it is slightly lifted, right?

Until you notice the front springs and bushings are worn out bad, bent or inverted leaves.
My rig could be easily have been 2-1/2 inches lower than where they are supposed to be.

Adding new front springs/bushings, with an extra duty ride leaf, might actually bring the front fender height a bit over the rear, in my situation. I'm still not OEM height.

Was concerned I had accidentally lifted it, when in fact I might end up even or slightly lower than a proper OEM front set.

Establishing a base line of how much lower than stock you are now, would be my best consideration, before you opt for anything intentionally raising your suspension.

I had never owned a Blazer with an OEM suspension.
Had no idea mine was so damaged or my spring rate was so relaxed, would be stating it correctly.

There's Spring shops, that can re-temper the OEM springs and/or add a leaf.
With the quality of some aftermarket steel imports, it might be worthwhile to have an expert spring shop with a furnace, refurbish what you have now?

OEM spring material was really good in the old days.
The newer trucks break them all the time hauling hay bales, on newer material springs.

My insurance company asked me politely NOT to lift it.
So I did not.

Might have to add an inch to my rear shackle to make it actually stock.
The distance the shocks travel is critical too.

If your suspension is sagging, regardless of miles, (even just from sitting), the shock travel might be out of range for a ride on a dirt road with a heavy foot.

In regards to your question, including remaining on budget...

Why not try a set of these before you do anything else?

LINK $246.95:
Front & Rear Shock Absorbers Kit Monroe Load Adjusting For Chevy Blazer K5 K20

This set worked so well, adding lift to my worn out springs, for the past three years I had no idea my leaves were so bad...

These are not expensive either:
Link $33.00:
Leaf Spring Clamp Kit

Buy you a few years to suss it out, on the cheap?

If your bushings are not rotten and your bolts are not rusted out, add some helper shocks with springs first. It really changed my ride for the better and was very easy to try before I finally had to change the rear end and springs, due to rear axle bearing wear, c-clip removal and increased towing capacity requirements.

Good luck.

Thanks for the reply! I think this is the way. I need shocks anyway, so I'll probably just grab those, and replace the clamps as well!

 

[Old60Driver]

I've attached some pics of the both rear leaf springs, and one pic of the front. The rear corrosion is what I'm really concerned with, the fronts actually don't look too bad.

What are y'alls thoughts on their condition?

Thanks again!

 

[DoubleDingo]

Looks fine to me. To be expected.

 

[Zelph]

^agreed

 

[Grit dog]

I’ll be odd man out and say lift it. I think a 2-3” lift with 33’s is how the K series should have come from the factory.

You shouldn’t need any modifications until you start getting into the 4”.

Tuff Country ( not rough country) is probably the smoothest off the shelf leaf springs in my experience of lifted trucks.

Pretty sure you’ll still need a drop steering arm or at least recommended.
Agree, stay away from Rough Country even if you’re on a budget. Your kidneys will thank you.

 

[RanchWelder]

So this is a tough solution...

Be very careful what you do with this advice, OK?
Not my fault if you screw yourself up...
You are warned...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y1B82TG/

You can mix this stuff 3:1 water to acid and clean the crap out out your springs frame and shock mounts.

50/50 is strong and requires a mask for chem exposure and clothes you might not want to wear until washed a few times, OK?

BRUSH it, NOT spray it... and keep clear of the drops and puddles.
It will rot your sneakers in a heartbeat!

Do not wash it off until you have made certain it is dried!
(Or you'll get the white powder blues).

Paint immediately after dried with quality primer.

Rust Be Gone, or rather converted.

If you skip the mask or the protective gear: you are stoopid!

This works very well annually, if you choose not to paint the metal parts with Rust-o-leum.

Please re-read this three or four times so you do not get sick or poisoned!

Respect the secret sauce...

You are going to freak out at what your truck looks like after the rust is "converted" to not rust.

Every year... repeat. Especially in a road salt environment.

Re-read my SIG vvv.

If you are not capable or financially able to afford the protective gear:
DO NOT DO THIS!

The drips from an improper start and finish plan, with regard to drips, can make you sick. Do NOT work under a drip!

This will make you very happy, if you don't poison yourself during the process, OK?

Once you see where it works, you'll be doing the whole truck!