Let's entertain something for a moment...big block in a c10 + lifted/lowered hate lol

[82sbshortbed]

I wouldn't listen to him. You saw the weight so I don't know why he wants to argue. You don't need two wheelbarrow worth of cash to make a truck fast and fun to drive. Not even close when you already have a BB with all the fun stuff on it already.

When I lived in shiner tx in my early 20's my buddy had a 84 short bed that was fast as ****. He only had a 350 with intake, cam and hedders. Idk what gears were in the rear end. But that MF was fast and fun to drive. We'd take it out on the country roads and peg that speedometer at 85 and it would stay there for a while after letting off the throttle.

It held up really well for a truck at high speed. Didn't act like it was gonna shake to pieces at all.

So I can imagine what that 502 do in a 1/2 ton shorty. So I say ****** go for it!!
Build you a fun fast truck.

 

[Vbb199]

Should be the same as any C10, besides one with manual brakes (JB1). JB3 AND JB5 systems both use the same 1.25 thick rotors. Only difference between the two is 2" vs 2.75" brake shoes.

Manual brake (JB1) trucks got 1" rotors.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Good stuff to know, most all the trucks I've had were jb5.

If I go this route, a disc brake swap on the rear with 3/4 Ton brake components would be how I proceed tho.

Probably move to a 3/4 master cylinder as well, although that thought process may be in error, I'm just thinking with drive train weight, I'd wanna stop it a little vaster with 4 wheel disc and a bigger cylinder.


In the case of the s10, with the added weight of 1 tons and the 39.5 boggers, I put on a 3/4 Ton Master cylinder for a swuarebody and the stopping power was significantly different, if I'd bleed the brakes properly, it'd be even better.
I know really moving onto 3/4 Ton probably means bigger brake lines though, does it not?

 

[Grit dog]

Sounds like fun, get er done!
Lot's of clean cheap 2wd trucks out here, although it's literally the opposite corner of the country. But cheap builder trucks with no rust, most of them running, are a couple grand. Heck, there's a guy (who flips trucks) who has a very clean looking 70s c10 stepside with an 80s front clip (yuck). Running but needs paint and typical interior work and he can't get $2500 for it.
If you have the drivetrain and don't want anything already restored or freshened up, you won't have much into buying the truck itself.

 

[Salty Crusty]

First, shipping weights and actual weights are totally different things. I was just pointing out the differences.

Having 700hp in a truck for burnouts is one thing, building it to go fast in a straight line is a whole different ball of wax. Getting it to launch and get that power to the ground is so much tougher with trucks than cars - that's why you don't see many with factory style suspension - the faster ones are all back-halved. Cha-ching.

There's a squarebody drag racer 4WD with a SFA - absolutely hauls ass but has truckloads of money and time into it. Damned sure cool, though.

OP: Check out Chevy's semi-floater, 9.5" that came out in 454SS trucks. They have 33 spline axles from the factory that are actually thicker at their thinnest point than a full floater. Moser can cut and respline originals if needed, last time I checked there's at least one aftermarket manufacturer that has blanks. If you get lucky and find one with an open diff rather than Chevy's Gov-bomb, you can drop a locker in and you'll be set. And you get to keep a Chevy rearend! There are different widths but 2WD and 4WD are different - you can knock 2" off each end of the 3/4 ton and still have the brackets for backing plates in the right place since they're longer on the ends for big drum brakes.

And check into hydroboost if you haven't already. It gets the vacuum booster out of the way and will stop RIGHT NOW.

 

[Vbb199]

Sounds like fun, get er done!
Lot's of clean cheap 2wd trucks out here, although it's literally the opposite corner of the country. But cheap builder trucks with no rust, most of them running, are a couple grand. Heck, there's a guy (who flips trucks) who has a very clean looking 70s c10 stepside with an 80s front clip (yuck). Running but needs paint and typical interior work and he can't get $2500 for it.
If you have the drivetrain and don't want anything already restored or freshened up, you won't have much into buying the truck itself.

That was my thoughts, just a ok body, doesn't have to be restored. Matter of fact, I like a body thats rusty and a little beat up, just adds to the insult when someone's doors gets blown off by a rusty ass chevy truck on a impromptu street run stop light to stop light.

I'm ideally looking for a truck with no motor, no trans, just a ok wiring harness, with a title.

Open headers, loud as ****, no AC, hell if I could I'd do manual steer just to take away the load on the motor.

All I need is headlights and a 12v source to make it work, efi is fairly self contained to JUST the motor, and I have headers and exhaust already.

 

[Vbb199]

First, shipping weights and actual weights are totally different things. I was just pointing out the differences.

Having 700hp in a truck for burnouts is one thing, building it to go fast in a straight line is a whole different ball of wax. Getting it to launch and get that power to the ground is so much tougher with trucks than cars - that's why you don't see many with factory style suspension - the faster ones are all back-halved. Cha-ching.

There's a squarebody drag racer 4WD with a SFA - absolutely hauls ass but has truckloads of money and time into it. Damned sure cool, though.

OP: Check out Chevy's semi-floater, 9.5" that came out in 454SS trucks. They have 33 spline axles from the factory that are actually thicker at their thinnest point than a full floater. Moser can cut and respline originals if needed, last time I checked there's at least one aftermarket manufacturer that has blanks. If you get lucky and find one with an open diff rather than Chevy's Gov-bomb, you can drop a locker in and you'll be set. And you get to keep a Chevy rearend! There are different widths but 2WD and 4WD are different - you can knock 2" off each end of the 3/4 ton and still have the brackets for backing plates in the right place since they're longer on the ends for big drum brakes.

And check into hydroboost if you haven't already. It gets the vacuum booster out of the way and will stop RIGHT NOW.

Honestly didn't know that about the semi floater. (I did, but I didn't know about the axle shaft specs)

The same semi float 14 you're referring to can also be found in limo's btw.
I was just thinking an axle that doesn't have c clips, because c clip axles never fail to dissapoint me, BUT, it would be less weight than a 14 bolt or a D60 rear end.

Hydro boost was something I considered, because alot of heavy 4x4 guys switch to it to stop their trucks quickly. So definitely something for me to consider.

 

[Vbb199]

Retubing, resplining, or shortening axles I "can" do here at the shop, but sometimes it gets into "is it worth it"
(as in, someone's already got an entire facility dedicated to it, why diy?)

There's very little things I cannot do here at the shop, it's not just some little manual Bridgeport in the corner type deal either.

Wire edm, cnc mills, heat treat furnaces, lathes, etc.
(me and my dad work together)
The only things I don't have access to is like a plasma cutter, we don't ever make anything that has that far out of wack tolerancing. (sorry plasma people)

In case nobody was watching, I've nearly made every piece of custom stuff in my builds.

I would think probably setting up a rear Trac bar would be suitable to keep the pinion from flying around when torque is applied.

At least that's how it's done on big tire trucks that aren't super easy to move without winding up the motor.

 

[Salty Crusty]

^ good for you, I'm envious of folks with cool tools and the skills to use them.
Resplining this one may be a bit much, Moser is supposedly the only one in the country set up for this particular spline

The narrowest semifloater is in the 454SS, all others are a bit wider.

Yukon used to have axles for them, might check.

You're right, they're a LOT lighter than the full floaters. I've NEVER seen one break, even behind 900+ hp.

 

[Big Chip]

Plus everyone lowers their truck now days. I like to be able to use it like a truck.

What exactly do you do with your truck that it can't be a little lower?!?!?!

 

[82sbshortbed]

What exactly do you do with your truck that it can't be a little lower?!?!?!

Go off road, drive thru high water, snow or mud. Carry a heavy load without sitting on the bump stops.

Ya know, truck stuff.

 

[Big Chip]

Go off road, drive thru high water, snow or mud. Carry a heavy load without sitting on the bump stops.

Ya know, truck stuff.

Make sure you take pictures of you doing that with your truck! Also, don’t drive through high water, much danger.

 

[RecklessWOT]

Some C10's came stock with 454's. Other than the obvious coil upgrade would possibly the brakes. I'm assuming the 454's would have the thicker rotors up front.

Here's an example like this Cheyenne Super 10.
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/d/los-gatos-1974-chevy/7188341933.html

that's a super clean truck and I like it, but man I feel like that's a LOT of money for an old 2wd longbed Chevy with 160k on it...

 

[RecklessWOT]

I feel compelled to tell you that shitcanning is the only option and that you would be better off with a LS swap.

Weird. I dont know why i would spew something like that.

I feel gross.

You should feel gross. The LS is a great engine, but it has no business in a ******* square...

Big block or stay stock. Just sayin...

 

[Vbb199]

What exactly do you do with your truck that it can't be a little lower?!?!?!

Tow heavy weight

Unless of course you mean like a couple inches, maybe I misunderstood

 

[Big Chip]

Tow heavy weight

Oh yeah, that’s definitely out of the question.

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