crazy4offroad
Equal Opportunity Destroyer
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2010
- Posts
- 8,479
- Reaction score
- 1,109
- Location
- West BY-GOD Virginia
- First Name
- Curt
- Truck Year
- 1979
- Truck Model
- K-10
- Engine Size
- 350/SM465/NP205
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I'm going to do a review of this ladder rack as a heads-up to others considering it. I've seen it for sale on several other websites and Amazon, and they're all identical. First, if you can't weld you may not want this. I'll have to disassemble some sections of it later and weld/ paint. If you can get a coupon code and get it closer to the $200 side it might be worth it.
The thickness of the pipe is about the same as exhaust pipe, or a child's swing set. I made the mistake of fully assembling it on the ground, hardware finger tight, and planning to just set it in place. I ended up practically disassembling the whole thing as I started trying to mount it to dad's truck (79 K10 fleet side short bed).
My original intention for this was to be able to haul 12' metal roofing and 10' 12' and 16' lumber. My dad's driveway has a switchback that would make using a trailer a real challenge. I went in knowing this is likely going to be Chinese garbage but maybe I can make it work. The front hoop has these foam pieces that I honestly can't understand their purpose, and ended up eliminating them.
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Their elimination was the result of having to remove the front hoop several times, trying to figure out the best location of the cross bar closest to the truck cab. In front of or behind the uprights? In front of or behind the small 1" pipe on the side bars? I finally settled with it here...
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To place it there required removal of the forward half of the side bars as well. If you have a nice truck you WILL end up scuffing your roof. Fortunately for me, dad's truck is a beater. The instructions are somewhat vague, since this is a universal mount ladder rack.
Another point of concern is going to be these so called "clamps" that join the front side bars to the rear side bars. Once fully tightened, metal-to-metal contact at the clamping point, the side bars can still potentially come apart with a load shift. Later I will eliminate these clamps and weld/ paint, as well as lighten the rack a little.
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One of the main things I take issue with is the supplied hardware. Don't let the zinc coating fool you. Chinese garbage. All of the hardware is individually packaged for whatever section you're working on. The large bolts, nuts and washers that attach the main uprights to the bed brackets I noticed had 1 nut that didn't match any of the others. Furthermore, there are no other bolts that accept a nut that size in any of the other hardware packages. I really don't understand where it came from.
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The bottom nut has a shorter profile than the top, and there's no other one like it in the whole kit. To expand on the poor quality of the hardware, one of the carriage bolts that hold the front hoop on got heavily galled threads from removing/ reinstalling, and I had to find a replacement because the nut stripped on the bolt.
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