Kick Panel (A/C Truck) passenger Rust

[Jwernatl]

Hey All - this has been great resource for me while I'm restore my '87 V10. The best actually.

As some of you may know, this entire complete interior make over started tight replacing the heater core! crazy I know right??


I pulled out the passenger side kicks panel - it looks like it's been leaking for some theme now. It's not bad at all. I want to STOP it

- Do you guys think the LOCKTITE RUST NEUTRALIZER would be sufficient it poured down the seam? Of course I'll prime and paint all that I can. Im just worried about dan in the crease.

Anyone ever use the rust Neutralizer? Or have any better ideas?

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[RoryH19]

Hey All - this has been great resource for me while I'm restore my '87 V10. The best actually.

As some of you may know, this entire complete interior make over started tight replacing the heater core! crazy I know right??


I pulled out the passenger side kicks panel - it looks like it's been leaking for some theme now. It's not bad at all. I want to STOP it

- Do you guys think the LOCKTITE RUST NEUTRALIZER would be sufficient it poured down the seam? Of course I'll prime and paint all that I can. Im just worried about dan in the crease.

Anyone ever use the rust Neutralizer? Or have any better ideas?

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Rust, what rust? Look at my k5 build if you want to see rust.

I've used this several times, works well.
I would remove the rest of the seam sealer in the area so the paint goes all the way down.
Then put new sealer in there. I like to use SEM brand.

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[Rob Goblin]

I agree with Rory. My rust is much worse. I think mine was from my vent window though. I use that rustoleum too. One day I’ll patch it but for now I shave bigger fish to fry.

 

[Jwernatl]

Rust, what rust? Look at my k5 build if you want to see rust.

I've used this several times, works well.
I would remove the rest of the seam sealer in the area so the paint goes all the way down.
Then put new sealer in there. I like to use SEM brand.

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I know it's not much rust, but, Im OCD - I don't want it to get worse. - if you knew - it all started with a heater core blow up. Currently i have no interior!

I saw that Rust-Oleum at the autoparts store. - I'll pick some up today. I've also got some etching primer. -

My plan was to use the

1. loctite neutralizer
2. the etching primer.
3. paint

hmmm....is one as good as other?

 

[Craig 85]

Make sure to replace that gasket on the back side. That is part of the problem. It lets water by once its worn out.

 

[legopnuematic]

That Loctite stuff is likely related to naval jelly, which will remove rust, but if not neutralized properly (the chemical itself) can end up causing more problems.

Like the others have suggested- mechanically clean it and then some rust convertor paint over it. Eastwood, SEM, Tamco all make great rust prevention products, as well as faithful rustoleum. 3m 2 part seam sealer is costly but worth it, light years ahead of the old single component stuff.

Good to catch it while it is a minimal amount of rust...

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[Ricko1966]

Ospho is a phosphoric acid wash sand and clean the area with water based cleaner to remove oil dirt and loose rust. Spray with Ospho, let it dry, rattle can paint it.
Pay attention, nobody blink,

Por15 wash with marine clean(water based cleaner) spray with metal ready prep( phosphoric acid wash) paint with the magic paint
The magic is the clean surface and phosphoric acid, not the paint.

Most magic rust cures are going to be phosphoric acid or tannic acid. Tannic acid encapsulates the rust , but requires rust to be of use. Phosphoric acid can go on clean steel or rusty metal to stop and prevent rust. So if your panel has some rust some paint some clean metal Ospho is my choice.But it's my choice anyway pure rust, bare metal either one.

 

[Jwernatl]

Make sure to replace that gasket on the back side. That is part of the problem. It lets water by once its worn out.

I will I was going to use a roll of rubber bead. Its plyable, this it will be ok?

 

[Jwernatl]

That Loctite stuff is likely related to naval jelly, which will remove rust, but if not neutralized properly (the chemical itself) can end up causing more problems.

3m 2 part seam sealer is costly but worth it, light years ahead of the old single component stuff.

Good to catch it while it is a minimal amount of rust...

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Thanks - I'll pu some of the 3M 2 part - I'm all over it I want to do it right - Thank you.

 

[Jwernatl]

Ospho is a phosphoric acid wash sand and clean the area with water based cleaner to remove oil dirt and loose rust. Spray with Ospho, let it dry, rattle can paint it.
Pay attention, nobody blink,

Por15 wash with marine clean(water based cleaner) spray with metal ready prep( phosphoric acid wash) paint with the magic paint
The magic is the clean surface and phosphoric acid, not the paint.

Most magic rust cures are going to be phosphoric acid or tannic acid. Tannic acid encapsulates the rust , but requires rust to be of use. Phosphoric acid can go on clean steel or rusty metal to stop and prevent rust. So if your panel has some rust some paint some clean metal Ospho is my choice.But it's my choice anyway pure rust, bare metal either one.

Ive got some POR 15 I used on an old '68 firebird - it works. I did exactly as I was supposed to.

I've cleaned it really good. sanded most of the rust out. It wasn't that bad. But i know it GROWS...

Im running up to the local paint supplier in the morning. - I'll see what they have. Rust scares me. I'll do anything to prevent it. This truck is to nice to let it go to that.

Thnks

 

[Craig 85]

I will I was going to use a roll of rubber bead. Its plyable, this it will be ok?

If it's like butyl tape I would say yes. The only issue you may have is trying to get the panel out if it needs to be removed again.