K30/CUCV lift questions

[NedFlanders]

I have a stock m1028, basically a k30 with overload springs in the rear. Want to lift it 5" and put 37" hmmwv tires under it for a greater top speed. Currently with the 4.56 gears and 6.2 diesel/th400 I top out about 50mph.

Truck will rarely be offroad, maybe a forest road here and there, so articulation is not an issue. Because of this I want to stay as low as possible to cut down on steering and driveline issues. On steel soldiers I have read of many people just raising 4" and having no problems.

Plan on 4" HD Front Tuff Country Springs up front, plus 1" zero rate.
The rear I am torn between shackle flip and blocks. Since articulation is not an issue, and axle wrap not a problem with a weak 6.2 Im leaning toward 4" blocks.


Truck now sits slightly lower in the front, should I plan on raising the front an inch higher than back to level it or will new springs level everything out? Trying to decide if I will also need a 1" zero rate for the back.

 

[bucket]

Blocks are cheap and work in the rear just fine. If you are planning on running those 37's on stock narrow rims, you may find they clear everything up front with just 4 inches of lift (they run a little small for the tire size). If not, you can add the zero rates up front and then decide if less rake bothers you. I don't think 1 inch less rake would be very noticeable.

 

[NedFlanders]

Thanks for the info. Would I gain anything by using zero rate to move front axle forward 1/2"? Have read others doing this. As far as wheels actually wanting to try and run the hmmwv 2 piece beadlock wheels that the tires are already mounted to. I know that will mean a 2" spacer on the front, or front hubs off a dualy. I have read others having great luck with spacers and others who avoid them like the plaque, so still doing my research.

 

[bucket]

With a zero rate you can move the axle 1 or 1.5 inches (I think). You should be able to re-drill the perches on the axle to move it 5/8 inch or so. It has to be far enough that you don't get into the existing alignment holes.

Spacers are fine, as long as they are quality and torqued properly. Some people will argue that the spacer puts more leverage on the bearings, but it's not true at all when the spacers are used to make up for a rim with more backspacing.

 

[NedFlanders]

Got another quick question. I am having trouble finding 4" blocks for a k30, seems most state 1/2 or 3/4 ton only. Since a 14 ff was also used on a 3/4 ton can I just order blocks and u bolts for a 3/4 ton?

Whats funny is the HD front springs part number 18471 that ORD sells for k30's are listed for a 3/4 ton everywhere else.

 

[bucket]

1 tons had the upside down "square" u-bolts, with the nuts and plates mounted below the axle. The blocks are the same for all models. You can have a spring shop make u-bolts the length you need, or overpay for a set at a parts store.

You can install the regular style u-bolts if you get the correct (3/4 ton) spring plates. However, under extreme use the spring plates can make contact with the bump stop brackets on the frame. It doesn't hurt anything, but it is possible.

 

[NedFlanders]

Ok I know crossover is best, but just not feasible at this point. What steering correction is better for a D60 with 5" of lift, steering block or drop pitman arm? Or adjustable drag link (S-link)? I have heard to avoid steering blocks but see that ORD now offers one with ARP studs which should be plenty strong.

 

[bucket]

Ok I know crossover is best, but just not feasible at this point. What steering correction is better for a D60 with 5" of lift, steering block or drop pitman arm? Or adjustable drag link (S-link)? I have heard to avoid steering blocks but see that ORD now offers one with ARP studs which should be plenty strong.

Those S-draglinks are absolute garbage. All they do is fix the angle put on the joints, they do NOTHING to help the geometry of the steering.

I've got a truck with a D60 and a steering block, it drives fine and the studs have never loosened up *knocks on wood*. I also have a truck with the drop pitman arm, it drives fine but I think it does something goofy with the steering geometry. Even with the steering box centered, the truck turns sharp to the right but requires a very wide turn to the left. I can't find anything else wrong, so in the mean time, I'm blaming that pitman arm.

So my choice would be a steering block. With quality studs, loc-tite, and proper torquing.

 

[NedFlanders]

I got done with my lift today, now I have a major problem. Truck turns fine to the right but barely turns to the left. Ended up with 5" of front lift and followed ORDs advice and went with drop pitman arm instead of steering block like I planned. I have adjusted the drag ling all the way out, and all the way in and it gets no better.

Isn't the pitman arm "keyed" to only go on the steering box at one position? If not maybe I dont have it on in the correct position... all I can think of at the moment.

Any ideas?

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Not sure about on the squares but new style can have one to three dead splines usually. Did you move the steering wheel or actual wheels at all with the pitman arm off? Did you put on a new steering stabilizer? Maybe it's overextending too soon when you turn left

 

[NedFlanders]

No i didnt change the steering stabilizer. Will watch it as I turn to see if its moving.

 

[yevgenievich]

If pitman arm been off the steering box and it is now way off, start over. It will have less turns in one direction vs other. Usually I would count the steering wheel rotations and set it in the middle. Have the wheel pointing straight and put the pitman arm on in the closest available key location. There should be 4 of them 90* apart.

 

[NedFlanders]

Ok I centered the tires, dropped the drag link and centered the steering wheel halfway between lock to lock position. With my drag link screwed all the way in it is still to long. Here is a pic.

Should I take pitman off, and try to move it forward a little then unscrew drag link a little to reach it?

 

[bucket]

You can try to move it, but from what I remember, it only fits on one way. You are having the same trouble as me and my truck with the dropped pitman arm. I think it's a design flaw.

 

[NedFlanders]

Problem solved. I cut 1/2" off the end of both links, threaded them back on and adjusted it to fit the pitman arm. Truck steers fine now, drag link was just to long from moving axle forward 1" with the zero rate.