K10 Window and lock problem

[Montana4x4]

I am having problems with my Power windows and power locks on my 1983 Chevy K10. Both side windows dont work and only the power lock switch on passengers side works for locks. I have replaced all switches and even bought new window motors and no luck. I have power going to the power window switches on both sides once ignition is switched on but there is only power going to the passenger side lock switch. I am thinking the orange/black wire that feeds drivers side power lock switch is the problem but could use some input. If the power lock switch on drivers side isnt getting power, would that cause the power windows not to work on both sides also? Thanks

 

[gmachinz]

Both orange/blk wires are spliced together inside the main dash harness-I strongly suspect you have some broken wires inside the door-cab boots. That is a very common problem with these trucks.

 

[Montana4x4]

Thanks! Would power not going to the drivers side power window switch cause both power windows to stop working also?

 

[Cuba]

Thanks! Would power not going to the drivers side power window switch cause both power windows to stop working also?

No, it doesn't look like same power wire. Pink wire for windows, again spliced that are fused by a breaker near the top of your fuse block... feeds both doors.
The door locks are powered by an orange w/black wire, feeds both doors. Hope that helps.

 

[chengny]

I am having problems with my Power windows and power locks on my 1983 Chevy K10. Both side windows dont work and only the power lock switch on passengers side works for locks. I have replaced all switches and even bought new window motors and no luck. I have power going to the power window switches on both sides once ignition is switched on but there is only power going to the passenger side lock switch. I am thinking the orange/black wire that feeds drivers side power lock switch is the problem but could use some input. If the power lock switch on drivers side isnt getting power, would that cause the power windows not to work on both sides also? Thanks

Windows first. I tend to get a bit verbose. So, in an attempt to keep people's eyes from glazing over, it's best to fight one battle at a time:

Voltage at the pink lead on both switches is good. But the circuit still needs to be grounded. Verify that it is - grounded - before moving on.

The entire power window system is grounded only via the black lead that runs from the LH switch to the bus bar ground block (up by the parking brake pivot). The RH window switch/motor has no direct connection to ground. The path to ground is provided through whichever power lead isn't being used to drive the motor up/down. It gets complicated. I posted the following for another member with non functional PW's in an 83:

The ground circuit on these systems is insane. Yes, it's true that the local switch reverses the polarity in the leads to the motor. The positive side is pretty straight forward; pink (hot) comes in to the switch and when the button is moved up or down the power is supplied to whichever side of the motor is needed.

At the same time that the hot side is switched, the ground leg is also switched. But the ground leg does not terminate locally. One of the two remote power leads from the master switch takes on the duty of the ground leg.

So the negative path to ground is: out of the motor windings, back through the switch, into the harness connector, out of the connector on one of the remote power leads (which one depends on whether the window is being raised or lowered), all the way back to the driver's master switch, through that switch, and finally out on the black ground lead to the common grounding bus block.

See if you can follow this diagram (and the text above) - the red arrows indicate the positive side and the blue is for negative side/ground path:

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But easiest first, check that there is continuity - on that black lead - from the LH switch to the ground block.

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There may be more than one wire connected to the ground block, so you'll have to physically trace them back until you find the one for the PW's.


If the power lock switch on drivers side isnt getting power, would that cause the power windows not to work on both sides also?

No, even though the two circuits are run physically together, they are entirely independent.

 

[Cuba]

Wow! Nice bit of info there! @chengny

 

[Montana4x4]

Thanks for all the info. Seems I have multiple problems then. Kinda weird everything was working and it started to rain here and i rolled my windows up and next morning nothing works but the passenger side power lock switch. I was hoping it would be one isolated problem. Ill check that single ground tomorrow and report my findings.

 

[chengny]

Thanks for all the info. Seems I have multiple problems then. Kinda weird everything was working and it started to rain here and i rolled my windows up and next morning nothing works but the passenger side power lock switch. I was hoping it would be one isolated problem. Ill check that single ground tomorrow and report my findings.

Nah, you most likely only have one issue - and we'll git it. The dwg below might help - it isn't a schematic but it is a fairly accurate depiction of the way the PW/PL harness is layed out:

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Are any other cab-mounted electrical components acting up? If so - and even if there aren't any other issues - you should check the cab to engine grounding strap. It runs from the firewall to the back of the RH cylinder head:

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Check your main ground cable - from the battery negative to the engine - as well.


BTW - the info above is a good example of what should be included when asking for help.

 

[gmachinz]

The simple explanation of the window system is that all window motor leads are normally grounded at rest through the master switch. Moving the button up or down allows the 12ga pink to apply power to one lead while the other lead remains grounded. I suggest pulling that WDO circuit breaker and verifying with a test light you have power there with the key on, then using a multimeter set to ohms simply probe the door shell and the black wire at the switch connector-if you have resistance, its grounded-if it shows an open circuit then theres a break in the ground circuit somewhere and it needs to be traced.

As for locks, the orn/blk is hot at all times but requires a ground which is provided via the lock relay which needs a good ground to the bracket which its bolts to-it grounds through the casing.

Review all the replies and info and post back what you find-I still think there is some broken wires inside the door boots-which incidentally can collect a fair amount of water in them too since water travels down the side of the cowl, around the hinges and directly on and in the boots if not 100% sealed from the elements.

 

[Montana4x4]

Just pulled the door boot halfway off and found my problems. Broken orange wire and broken black ground wire. I tried to solder them but the wires are too old and wouldnt take to new wire. Can I buy the the replacement wiring they all look like harness assembly. Thanks for all the info it really helped me understand the system.

 

[Cuba]

Just pulled the door boot halfway off and found my problems. Broken orange wire and broken black ground wire. I tried to solder them but the wires are too old and wouldnt take to new wire. Can I buy the the replacement wiring they all look like harness assembly. Thanks for all the info it really helped me understand the system.

You could just use the shrink wrap crimp connectors and use a wire to extend in between if too short. They're great and because they have a glue along with the shrink wrap, it seals very nicely without having to worry about more water penetration. Here's what I'm talking about

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After crimping, use a lighter or a mini torch to shrink the ends until the glue leaks out or it's uniformly shrunk

 

[gmachinz]

Bingo!! You'll end up with more broken wires later down the road. I've got NEW replacement GM style door harnesses-PM me for more info! My harnesses are much higher quality than the oem wiring-you wont have any issues with these!