Just bought a 1995 GMC C1500

[VAL]

That's gonna be a bitch to get that bolt out. I just wonder how long it would last if you got some of that high temp silicone and put good amount on that half of that port and just go with 1 bolt. Worth a try I guess. Install that manifold first, then do the other so that the silicone has a chance to set up before you start it up.

With both those manifolds not only cracked but broke too, I'd think they got very hot. Those manifolds on those year model trucks weren't the best. We all know that about the warping and all and they are prone to crack too. But for these to not just cracked but completely broke I'm thinking they were ran with maybe a lean condition that causes the exhaust to run hotter than normal. Running hotter than normal also isn't good on the Cat Converter either. Can cause it to start to melt down, then when it cools the clogs start. A clogged or restricted Cat also causes high exhaust temp. I've seen exhasut manifolds glowing red hot before and it was a clogged cat that caused it.

I am going to say you are right on, with the cat theory. From the looks of it, it's got the original cat from the factory.

 

[84c10Tony]

How about an angle drill?

If you do not have an angle drill and easy out's, maybe rent one?
Also, a spray of Break Free or something to soak for a bit for "ease of knuckles" before tackling the removal might help.

 

[VAL]

If you do not have an angle drill and easy out's, maybe rent one?
Also, a spray of Break Free or something to soak for a bit for "ease of knuckles" before tackling the removal might help.

I'm headed over to harbor freight now, they got a pneumatic angle drill for $35, I'm gonna get the ez outs from somewhere else though, gonna need a quality set. Don't want to take a chance with a cheapo set breaking off in the bolt.

 

[84c10Tony]

Good thinking, years ago had one break, high quality is the way to go there.
Spray it yet? and maybe a light couple of taps (needs a center punch hit for the drill bit anyway), spray again and let soak, helps the "tool do the job".

Oh, do you have a new bolt btw?

 

[VAL]

Good thinking, years ago had one break, high quality is the way to go there.
Spray it yet? and maybe a light couple of taps (needs a center punch hit for the drill bit anyway), spray again and let soak, helps the "tool do the job".

Oh, do you have a new bolt btw?

Just pick this drill up, hopefully I'll be able to get it in that tight spot against the firewall. I also pick up a transfer punch set, and an automatic center punch. If the automatic punch works, ill return the 28 piece set. If not I'm stuck with both. Where's a good place to get quality ez outs? Was thinking maybe home depot.

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[84c10Tony]

extractors

check out DENLORStools.com and video on youtube

 

[VAL]

I am going to say you are right on, with the cat theory. From the looks of it, it's got the original cat from the factory.

What do you think, original OEM cat?

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[Honky Kong jr]

Appears so.

 

[HotRodPC]

Just cuz it's the original Cat doesn't mean it's clogged up. I've seen them go 300,000 miles on vehicles. But, I've also seen them clog up at much less too like in the 100,000 mile range. Lots of things determine how long one will last. Extreme lean conditions for example can make them run hotter and they won't last as long. Lots of downhill coasting believe it or not can make them go bad faster. Have you ever smelled that rotten egg smell at the bottom of a steep grade? That's all the Cat Converters that are burning up. That's what they smell like when they get overheated.

 

[84c10Tony]

cat

Could be, looks like the surrounding area all matches obviously, one idea I saw on the tube, plug one side of the y and hook up air to the other side and check if approximate volume of air comes out the tail pipe, odd but what the heck.
Also, where a few guys tried to wash them out with all kinds of stuff, trying to remember if soaking in acetone helped, lots of ways to skin a potato.

After getting the bolt out (saw on you tube where folks welded a washer and nut on a broken stud etc, did ya' soak it yet? lol and a few other ways), and the manifolds on, check the temp variation from front and back on the cat like one of guys mentioned earlier.

I remember the old ones were bad when you banged up on them and it sounded like a bunch of bb's inside, I do not recall if your year cat is ceramic or not which the banging might crack the fragile honeycomb. More stuff to research, hmm...

The info I pm'd you about a different type of easy out, see anything yet?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

You have that fancy camera/scope now. Drill a hole just bigger then the head and take a look see. Then just plug weld the hole shut. I'd drill just ahead of where the weld is. You could drill one at either end to look at both ends of the cat and remove all doubt. And it isn't that evasive.

 

[VAL]

I removed the inner fender sheild yesterday, it looks like I'm gonna have a straight shot at getting the broken bolt out. I don't think it'll be a problem getting the angle drill with a short bit, in there.

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[VAL]

Could be, looks like the surrounding area all matches obviously, one idea I saw on the tube, plug one side of the y and hook up air to the other side and check if approximate volume of air comes out the tail pipe, odd but what the heck.
Also, where a few guys tried to wash them out with all kinds of stuff, trying to remember if soaking in acetone helped, lots of ways to skin a potato.

After getting the bolt out (saw on you tube where folks welded a washer and nut on a broken stud etc, did ya' soak it yet? lol and a few other ways), and the manifolds on, check the temp variation from front and back on the cat like one of guys mentioned earlier.

I remember the old ones were bad when you banged up on them and it sounded like a bunch of bb's inside, I do not recall if your year cat is ceramic or not which the banging might crack the fragile honeycomb. More stuff to research, hmm...

The info I pm'd you about a different type of easy out, see anything yet?

You have that fancy camera/scope now. Drill a hole just bigger then the head and take a look see. Then just plug weld the hole shut. I'd drill just ahead of where the weld is. You could drill one at either end to look at both ends of the cat and remove all doubt. And it isn't that evasive.

Yeah, thanks Tony, I was checking out the video, very helpful. I borrowed an EZ out from a freind that has a machine shop, that I'm gonna use. It's a good quality one. As soon as I get this bolt out, I'm going to pull the O2 sensor out, and I'm gonna stick that scope camera in there to look at the cat. I'll probably put a new high flow cat on regardless, after its all said and done, just for piece of mind.

 

[HotRodPC]

I removed the inner fender sheild yesterday, it looks like I'm gonna have a straight shot at getting the broken bolt out. I don't think it'll be a problem getting the angle drill with a short bit, in there.

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Nice. You've got enough room and a straight shot now, you can use a jack hammer if you wanted.

 

[VAL]

Got this bitch out!

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