Just bought a 1995 GMC C1500

[Georgeb]

Pump as much out as you can.

 

[HotRodPC]

So, this is what the gas that's in the tank looks like, still smells like gas too. I got about a quarter tank of it. What do you guys think?

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If it still smells like gas and and it's not green at all, I'd be running that gas. The color looks fine to me. Should burn just fine. If you get the truck started I'd consider filling up with fresh gas though, or at least to a half of a tank if you say you have 1/4 in it now. But if you haven't dropped the tank, I don't think you need to.

 

[VAL]

If it still smells like gas and and it's not green at all, I'd be running that gas. The color looks fine to me. Should burn just fine. If you get the truck started I'd consider filling up with fresh gas though, or at least to a half of a tank if you say you have 1/4 in it now. But if you haven't dropped the tank, I don't think you need to.

Gauge was at 1/2 tank, I disconnected the filter, put a hose on it, and let the pump push it out little by little, now it has just a 1/4. I'm gonna put 5 gallons of premium in it and call it good.
On another note, I pulled the starter, took it to get it bench tested at the parts store, and it passed. put it back on the truck, it turned over once and then stopped, now it just clicks when you turn the key. The battery has a full charge. I'm like WTF!

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Have you had a chance to check all the grounds yet? I'll attach a diagram that shows those plus your hot lead to the starter solenoid. If those are good and still the same issues, check for voltage drop across that red lead by testing it close to the battery and close to the solenoid. If your voltage drop across that wire is greater than one tenth of a volt, your cable has degraded too much, and you need a new one. Maybe do a visual inspection, too, to make sure it's not something chewed or damaged. I wouldn't jump to suspect ignition switch/NSS right away because you are getting some voltage to the starter. If you have or have access to a remote starter switch, now might be the time to break it out and test things if you're impatient. That ground strap is at the passenger side cylinder head, by the way.

 

[VAL]

Have you had a chance to check all the grounds yet? I'll attach a diagram that shows those plus your hot lead to the starter solenoid. If those are good and still the same issues, check for voltage drop across that red lead by testing it close to the battery and close to the solenoid. If your voltage drop across that wire is greater than one tenth of a volt, your cable has degraded too much, and you need a new one. Maybe do a visual inspection, too, to make sure it's not something chewed or damaged. I wouldn't jump to suspect ignition switch/NSS right away because you are getting some voltage to the starter. If you have or have access to a remote starter switch, now might be the time to break it out and test things if you're impatient. That ground strap is at the passenger side cylinder head, by the way.

Yeah, I checked the voltage at the battery, at the starter, and the hot ignition wire, 12.5 volts, and all the grounds. I'm thinking it's still is the starter or solenoid that is working, but too weak to turn the engine over. I just don't want to drop $130 on a new starter and find out its something else.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

That's happened to me before. All my wiring and voltages were in order, and the stupid thing would barely turn or wouldn't turn at all. I was able to smack the starter body with a hammer and get a few more starts out of it. It was a Delco starter so I had it rebuilt instead of buying a new one, and it's as good as new. I mean, if you want to bypass everything just to test the starter directly, a remote starter switch will remove any doubt.

 

[HotRodPC]

12.5 isn't all that good really. It'll do in most cases, but if you have an ailing starter, 13.8 - 14.2 is optimal voltage. You can do the tap on the starter as suggested, though that's not as common to work on gear reducted starters, but if your starter is tired, many times you can get a few more starts out of it with a good jump source whether is be some good jumper cables from a strong vehicle, or a strong jump box. Get that voltage up high as possible with good clean terminals and connections and try to force that tired bitch into getting at least one more good crank and a start at least for purpose of diagnostics. Or take the starter off and have it bench tested before you buy another one. If you have a battery source to test one at a DIY yard, go buy a used one from a Pull or Part or something.

 

[HotRodPC]

Gauge was at 1/2 tank, I disconnected the filter, put a hose on it, and let the pump push it out little by little, now it has just a 1/4. I'm gonna put 5 gallons of premium in it and call it good.
On another note, I pulled the starter, took it to get it bench tested at the parts store, and it passed. put it back on the truck, it turned over once and then stopped, now it just clicks when you turn the key. The battery has a full charge. I'm like WTF!

Ohhh now I see you had it bench tested and it passed. Them bench tests are just to confirm it's bad, but they also give false passes too, as well as with alternators. The starter is under no REAL load when bench testing. But if it's clicking, it's at least trying. As suggested, get that voltage up to optimal and it should crank again.

Do you have any starting fluid? If you get where you know it'll crank, put a quick shot in the throttle body just to see if it'll fire. If it does, then you'll at least know you have a fuel problem and it's getting spark.

I wish I were there, I'd like to see this cheap bitch run. Kinda like that Kia I drove back from Cali that had sat for over 5 years. My family thought I was nuts, getting a vehicle I knew nothing about running after sitting for over close to 7 years, with tags out for over 6 years and driving it back 1300 miles to OK with minimal tools.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Just a thought but when did GM have the bright idea to put that dumb resistor in the key? I soldered a resistor in to eliminate the one in the key of my mother inlaws 97 Lumina never had an issue since. But if the fuel pump is working it isn't that. Fusible link weak? If they still use them. I also don't trust the parts monkeys at some of these stores how were they throwing load to that starter when they tested it and was it once and done or did the run multiple tests?

 

[HotRodPC]

I don't think 95 had the Resistor Key. Even if so, I'm pretty sure that affected spark but the engine would crank, just not start. If it were security issue, the Security Light should be on in the dash.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Just throwing it out there.

 

[HotRodPC]

Just throwing it out there.

Yep, no bad suggestions on these year models. In fact, if it were cranking, at least IIRC, it cranks, there is a situation on these trucks that if you don't know, you can spend a fortune in time and cash guessing. Because I'm not 100% certain now that I think about it, I'll just ask. Is the little light lit up in the dash for the Transmission P R N OD D 2 1 indicator? I think it's a crank but no start, no spark situation in these trucks, but if the little trans indicator light is not lit up when you turn the key on, then you have a bad ignition switch. Now how strange is that?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Not strange at all I came from all but 20 years of VW,Porsche and Audi experience as a master tech on a dealership level. Oh the stories I could tell, but I digress.

 

[VAL]

Just a thought but when did GM have the bright idea to put that dumb resistor in the key? I soldered a resistor in to eliminate the one in the key of my mother inlaws 97 Lumina never had an issue since. But if the fuel pump is working it isn't that. Fusible link weak? If they still use them. I also don't trust the parts monkeys at some of these stores how were they throwing load to that starter when they tested it and was it once and done or did the run multiple tests?

When I took the starter to the parts store, they tested it 3 times, and it passed 3 times. I was watching them do it, it was zero load test. they just hooked it up to 12v power, and a remote switch. the solenoid would engage, push the gear up, and spin. Hell, I did that at home with jumper cables and a screwdriver. But I thought the store;s machine might have tested it under load. Nope!
Anyway, I found a parts yard that has one for $40, with a money back guarantee. I'm just gonna get it to have piece of mind that it actually is the starter. If it cranks this bitch, Ill order a new one, If not, Ill have to look elsewhere for the solution to the no crank problem.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

When I took the starter to the parts store, they tested it 3 times, and it passed 3 times. I was watching them do it, it was zero load test. they just hooked it up to 12v power, and a remote switch. the solenoid would engage, push the gear up, and spin. Hell, I did that at home with jumper cables and a screwdriver. But I thought the store;s machine might have tested it under load. Nope!
Anyway, I found a parts yard that has one for $40, with a money back guarantee. I'm just gonna get it to have piece of mind that it actually is the starter. If it cranks this bitch, Ill order a new one, If not, Ill have to look elsewhere for the solution to the no crank problem.

Probably a good bet. A no load test tells you nothing only it will spin. How often have you checked a battery and it show 12.5 and put a load to it and clicky clicky?